Recent content by ekentner1

Amateur Telescope Making by Porter, published by Scientific American gives detailed instructions for silvering telescope mirrors. No longer in print, but probably available used. It's not rocket science!

I am running a Model B touring engine in my 28 Phaeton. The engine is new, about 200 miles on it now, but it has a problem that is giving me a fit. Every time I step on the throttle, the engine hesitates, then "catches". It makes down shifting a chore, and driving a Royal Pain. The engine is...

Thanks Brent. The picture you supplied is of the "pull pin" I was asking about. What is its function? Both sides have identical pins, but I don't understand why this joint required a different connection than all the other hinge joints? Why the wire loop on the pins?

I have a pair of '28 Phaeton top irons that I'm trying to restore. They are pretty much frozen shut with rust Neither contain any wood at all. Both sides have what appears to be a "pull pin" in one of their joints. Both pins have a "finger loop" and both are fairly loose in the joint they...

Well, it seems you've covered most of the angles. If it gets gas and has a spark it will run . . . Since the engine quits when it gets hot, that sure sounds like a clue. Next I would think you could narrow it down to either a fuel problem, or an electrical problem. Fuel is the easiest thing...

Talk to Steve at Bert's. I think their engines are significantly cheaper then a lot, and I'm pretty sure their shop has an inventory of engines on hand.

I've got a "worn out" long block A engine for sale, including the manifold and carburetor for $250.00. I also have a collection of "A" and "B" heads, some milled flat, others stock, but no police heads, $15.00 each. The radiator from the above engine is also for sale, it cooled OK, but had a...

Original Model A Pop-Out switch, Key number matches switch number. I removed it from my '28 when I changed to FSI ignition. Works OK. Price does not include shipping. Reply to: ekentner1@cox.net

Left rear fiberglass fender, Mac's A-16311a. New, unused, but it has been stored for a couple of years. The price does not include shipping. Reply to: ekentner1@cox.net

I didn't asked the price of a copper gasket from this company, but I did get a price from another company a little earlier . . . $250.00 for a gasket 0.125", $175.00 for their 0.093 gasket. I'll check with this company, it may be a little better, but I do need at least the 0.093 thickness.

Thanks Bob, I gave them a call, it sure looks like an easy fix! My concern now is how well the shims can be sealed to the deck. I asked that question to innomach, the guy said use our Haylomar seal. Do you know if any of the engines you mentioned were running high compression heads? Ed

Thanks Bob, I hadn't heard about "spacers". I'll check that out!

Thanks for your quick reply, and input. I am curious to know more about the additional remedial action you mentioned, but just curious . . . the short block was built by H&H engineering, and has been balanced, so trimming the pistons is out. As for the aluminum head gasket, the jury is still...

I have a clearance problem with a Winfield head on a "B" engine. The pistons protrude about 0.050 above the deck. A special order copper gasket to provide 0.035 clearance is BIG BUCKS. Making the gasket out of aluminum would make the price reasonable, but I can't find much on using this...

The groove that the running board flanges fit into fill with water. Is it wise to drill drain holes in this groove before installing the running boards? If so, then coating the groove and the holes edges with POR-15 would seem to be the best way to prevent future rusting? Comments, please! Ed