Recent content by Drbrown

My '47 came with OEM transmission and a BW R10 installed just 8 inches forward of the differencial. As Proartguy mentioned, it was set up with toggle switch for operation and has the pull-out handle at dash for engagement. I was cautioned not to use the OD in first gear as it could damage it.

Had a '51 Coupe after HS. Beautiful exterior lines/design. Good driver. The engine had a side-draft carb to lower the hood and when it was properly tuned cound beat my friend's dual-carb Ford off the line. It was first time I ever rebuilt an engine while it was in the car.

About that time period I believe heaters were an option on new cars and I believe the dealers usually installed and wired them. My '47 was wired of the ignition switch. The insulation on the heater wire under the dash board wore-thru and sparks were flying. As suggested I put a relay on the...

Anything like that should be fused. A 12 volt circuit with standard wire should be fused to 20 amps. However, as "Kurt in NJ" beforehand indicates one should aqvoid overloading the key circuit itself. It should be preferable to have that new circuit from the key operate a 12 volt relay (only)...

General note: If one has an Overdrive unit (mine has a BW unit) I was told by a (now deceased) overdive rebuilder to use the 140w in that.

My '47 came with a pentronix conversion. During second year of use it died and had to get towed back home. After many tries with the experts like Jim Lindner, I found that the Pentronix units were burning out due to voltage spikes. That problem could not be pinned-down so after spending...

I agree with Flatford8 ... keep an anticorrosive coolant in engine.

Install a coolant that has rust inhibitor in it and change it about every 3 or 4 years (its effect wains after a while). I use Preston. It also has a di-elect additive in it which is a benefit to deter metallic corrosion if there are different metals in your cooling system. If you simply...

I only experience near-over-heating in stop-n-go city traffic, which is seldom. When the car sits in traffic the stock fan mostly just thrashes the engine compartment air around. I tried an electric fan .... with 12v system had to upgrade my GM alternator from 55 AMP to 12 AMP. Regardless for...

Somewhere on the internet there is published test results comparing performance betweeen Aluminum vs. Brass/copper radiators. Their finding was that Aluminum is only very slightly better in giving off heat. Personally, I choose Brass/copper because its relatively easy to repair. Aluninum is...

Follo0w-up: As previously described, my situation did turn-out to be a faulty Master Cylinder. Could only find an off-shore "Dorman" unit for replacement. It was apparently original to the car. Will rebuild and offer it up.

When I purchased my '47 it had stickie valves. That cleared up quickly with an oil change including MMO and a quart of good old Bardall. Now I use common Penn State 10-30 oil. The engine is rarely run in winter season (dry-salt-free roads only) and no valve problems.

Once visited Alaska during July-August and could sit outside and read a book at 2 AM. Plants respond with significant growth.

Didn't know him but RIP. So many knowledgeable old-timers here have departed. "Getting old means you find yourself in a smaller crowd ever day." At age 88 I appreciate that comment. Most freinds have passed and those that haven't are often unable or uninterested in communicating.

Assuming these are "Ford", with stock flatheads using two sensors that have different functions, can't tell which of them are for "what". My '47 sensors have screw terminals and are wired in series. I understand passenger side regulates the temperatuire display on the dash gauge and driver's...