Recent content by diyforever

Thank you both for your help. I should have also asked if you know what type of throw out bearing this is. Here is a picture. It doesn't appear to have a number on it. Trying to attach photos of bearing still attached to hub. Hope it works..

Al, I acquired 31 slant window with F150 RTS. Needs clutch disk. Took engine out. Noticed RTS has a 8 7/8 clutch disk with 1 1/16 input spline. Would you know what car/truck the disk came from?

Bob, I'll double check the connection on the speedocable. Just wondering about the switch connection. Does it mean that I should switch the connection on the switch attached to the transmission tower? OR ?

It's my understanding that when an overdrive is engaged, the RPMs on the engine should decrease. However, on my 1930 A I have a laycock overdrive and a tach which shows RPMs increase when I engage. The speedometer reading goes up approx 10 mpg which I understand since speedocable is attached to...

Thank you all for your help. I finally installed the engine and was surprised to find that it lined up on the motor mounts with some coercing. I guess it all lines back up when you put the engine back. One other curious thing was when I tried to attached the brake rod to the brake pedal it was...

Thks Jack, wondering if I should just go for the engine reinstall OR first try to move the ****** back...

Joe K, thks much for your suggestions. Makes me feel better knowing it's likely it moved and a solution is also there.

No, haven't reinstalled engine. I'm anticipating problem if ****** moved. Strange thing is that I noticed a bit of an alignment problem when mating the radius rod with the bellhousing. The ball did fit once I dropped and leveled the ******. But it raised the first flag. Second flag raised when...

While removing engine, forgot the two lower bell housing bolts. Grrrr... Once bolts removed, engine came out. Removed bell housing to rebuild clutch and pedal shafts. Installed rebuilt bellhousing. BUT i noticed now that brake pedal to cross shaft brake rod is now about ½ inch to short. The...

I tried double sided tape but it got greased up. I'll try grease on a Stick that might work. Good idea.....

Well, I was cleaning the oil pan gasket from the engine getting ready to install new gasket and didn't notice flywheel cover missing. But I did notice after the 1 inch piece of cork gasket fell in through the opening. Grrrrr. I have tried to remove it but no luck. Should I worry? or what is good...

Well, I started it up and out of garage so that I could check for leaks. Then it heated up and overflowed thru the overflow tube. Lots of rusty looking liquid. So, will have to diagnose the cooling system and correct as first priority then attack the popping. BTW....car has old type wires...

I'll try to explain. While engine is running, it idles but the engine makes popping noises. Not present with old plugs. I do the following; 1 - pull timing lever down all the way and seems to reduce the popping. But still happens. 2 - opened GAV slightly and improves a little more but still...

1930 Model A. Well, decided to change from Motorcraft T10s to Champion W18. WHY? It was next thing on list. Gap them to .035. Engine starts but now pops like a pop corn popper. I attach pic off old plugs. Black but not oily. Should I narrow the gap to .030?

Thank you all. Good suggestions. Will check that out and post back. Doesn't anyone know how much clearance there should be? 1/4, 1/2 inch? My 1930 has zero. :mad: