Recent content by dfclimber

I think "Model Aers" come in different shapes, colors and types - The Chopped and Channeled brightly painted show cars, Rat Rod, "Original Restored Show Car" with every part correct down to the correct rivet in the proper color and finish (owners sometimes dressing in period clothing) and then...

This commercial from the1970s did not help one bit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA99GsXC3wI&sns=em

I am going to tear it apart (yet again) in the next few day and I will recheck that. Thank you all for contributing. You all have been very helpful

Another update Tore it apart again No continuity between the commutator and armature or commutator and the shaft However there is continuity between the armature and the shaft IS THIS ABNORMAL. Question- The field brushed go on the 2 insulated brush holders and the ground brushes go on the...

Thanks for all the info so far but, ITS BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD. With everything put back together except the ground brushes THERE IS NOW CONTINUITY between the starter copper contact and the body, that was NOT there before reinstalling the armature. (IE brushes and fields were isolated...

Herb, I have the starter COMPLETELY apart. All solder points are strong. I have cleaned the armature/commutator with electrical parts cleaner (it was covered with some grease) Brushed were cleaned and there was some pitting of one of the ground starter brushes which was cleaned up/sanded a...

corrected to "insulated tip"-thanks

Yes, This switch (and the starter) have worked without fail (or repair) since the car was acquired by my GrandMother in 1963 then passed onto my father in early 70s and to me a few years ago.

I have a sparky starter off the retard lever with no foot starter. It seems from looking at the catalogs that my starter switch is different from what is NOW sold. My switch has a solid push rod with an orange Insulated tip attached to the retard rod/sparky start apparatus. This goes through an...

Tom- Thanks for the description of the current flow pathway- I wonder if there was a short between the insulated brush wires to the housing as the insulation looked an old degraded brown paper bag or some other degraded form of insulation. To my family's recollection starter has not been...

Tom, Thanks for your info. There was a CRACK in the solder where the 2 sides of the fields come together. They did not seem to wiggle at all, but maybe resoldering this area could help. I will certainly try this before getting a rebuilt unit Thanks for the help

WELL. 3 bolts and remove that was easy. Pulled the thing completely apart and IT IS NEVER GOING BACK TOGETHER . -Spun smoothly by hand - not seized -There is electrical continuity from the starter contact point to the fields internally (but there is a fair amount of rust. -All the brushes are...

do I have to remove the starter to evaluate the brushes or just remove the end band and look inside. I have Andrews vol1 but if there are other good links or recommendations from others - PLEASE POST THEM. (My 6 year old is getting tired of helping me push start her)

UPDATE ON THE STARTER ISSUE 1. Confirmed 6.8v flowing in starter cable and good ground 2. Removing the starter switch from the starter and applied current to the copper starter contact (bypassing switch)- NOTHING 3. Applied current to the starter and measured voltage from between contact and...

Went to start the A today and initially starter spun strong. I pulled it back down as I forgot to turn on the gas (I run it dry after each use). I tried to again start it and nothing. No starter spin/engagement, no sounds , nothing. I DO NOT HAVE FUSE ON STARTER Lights worked fine (and did not...