Recent content by Corn Fed

I have a Model A WS frame in my 34 truck. I removed the skirt section off the back with a cutting disk, leaving the forward portion that holds the weatherstip seal. I reused the upper hinge (body side) from the 34. I can't remember if the swing arm stubs are in the exact location (inward or...

'57-58 Wagon rear glass. This is the hard to find curved piece for the hatch. I also have the stainless trim that goes around it. It does have some scratches and the trim has a few dings, but if ya need one, here it is. $125. Must be picked up. I don't want to chance shipping this thing...

Back up. You won't find nicer parts.

Get your truck ready for spring rains!

‘53 to ‘55 pickup (maybe others?) electric wiper motor and switch. It works. 6 Volt. Perfect for converting from a vacuum system. $50 plus shipping.

If you and the recipient are in the upper Midwest, look to see if you are in Spee-Dee Delivery's area. They are significantly cheaper and aren't as stupid about shipping loose items as the big guys. https://speedeedelivery.com/

The shank is 2". Does that point towards 3W?

I have one for the ‘32 experts. Has anyone ever seen a door lock assembly with a long shaft? Except for the shaft and a few other minor differences in the housing, it looks very much like a standard ‘32. Is it for something obscure like a ‘32 sedan delivery rear door? Is it even for a Ford...

His grille is very nice to start with. There wouldn't be any straightening and very little fill work required. If the grille had any issues, I'm sure the price would increase exponentially.

David, I am taking into consideration that the OP is building a street rod that most likely has some combination of an aftermarket radiator, frame, grille, hood, and a modified firewall. If it was all nice OEM Henry parts he might get lucky and not need to do any adjustments.

My father was just quoted $2500 to have his very nice 34 shell chromed by a shop in Minnesota. I think they were in the Minneapolis area.

I would do as DavidG says, except add that I would align the hood with the fenders off. You will probably have the hood on and off a dozen times and having the fenders off makes it much easier. Plus, you may even have to remove the radiator and file holes to get it to all align.

I sent you a PM on the belt molding. There are also a few metal brackets that are used to hold the wood together. Did you get and other stuff with the body?

Looks like a nice solid body. Do you have the beltline trim piece?

Find a buddy with a lathe, whittle out some bushings, and have yourself a set of pedals at half the price others are asking.