Recent content by Chris Marshall

I actually have two of these here in Kansas so likely not a Canadian only thing (although I have a Canadian C69 block I picked up in Oklahoma?). No idea what they came off of or even when I acquired them. Possibly Mercury? One is bare and the other is complete with starter plate, bottom pan...

Gary, this post answers many of your questions regarding torque tube and driveshaft length: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=186283&showall=1 Simplest to modify would be a 33/34 TT & driveshaft. Tubular driveshaft and no center carrier bearing in the TT. I believe post #30...

Gary, talk with John. He'll steer you right. 265 install is straightforward - SBC adapter to 39 trans and slightly modified original 32 front motor mounts on the 265. All sets in place like it was designed to be there.

Appreciate all the input. I had a 36 SD with the step in bumper so assumed 35 had them also. We all know where assuming gets us... Good to know I don't have to go chasing down a rare rear bumper for the 34.

Did the 33/34 sedan deliveries have the "step in" rear bumper? I know 32's had it and the 35/36's have it, but I can't find any photos showing a step in rear bumper on the 33/34. Picture of my 34 sedan delivery for comparison. It obviously does not have the step in style bumper.

In my experience that bearing spacer that goes on the spindle needs to have an interference fit and not spin. The inner bearing will not hold it. The generic kits use a valve seat that does not have the correct ID diameter for an interference fit. I had these on my 32 roadster several years...

Here's photos of an elusive NOS aftermarket 97 I have with the loadamatic port along with paperwork. These were marketed for all flatheads through '53 to replace the 94's.

I came up with a temporary fix that may become permanent. The hole in the latch plate is perfect size to run a 1/4" tap though and thread it. Made a bushing for a 1/4" bolt to match the shoulder diameter of the rivet. Threaded the bolt & bushing into the plate. Added a lock nut on the back...

Thanks Pete!

I was trying to lube the driver's door latch on my 33 coupe yesterday and the latch locked up. Both handles locked solid. Finally gave in and took the door apart to get the latch assembly out. The toggle from the inside handle that's under the door latch anvil (for lack of a better term) was...

I'm looking for a good 1933 five window coupe driver's side door latch assembly. Early '33 with the interior door handle at the front of the door. Needs to have a good, crisp door latching lug (probably the wrong term). I have one with a worn, rounded off latching lug that won't hold the door...

I have a NOS Stromberg 97 designed as a replacement for the 49-53 Fords with the loadamatic distributor. The original box is a bit rough, but all the documentation is with it. Also have a NOS Carter replacement carb for 34-53 (per the instructions) flathead Fords. It has the loadamatic port...

David, Short answer is the '32 tudor body is one of the cleanest, rust free, and straight original '32 body's I've had the privilege to run across. Longer version for those interested. David, I'm sure you're aware D Duncan purchased the sedan at Harry's auction. In typical fashion it was...

Great job on that car David! There's still an article on the web talking about Harry and his cars: https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/blogs/for-what-its-worth-the-harry-s-lee-auction Here's the photo of the '33 from the article. I'm hoping this works. I ended up with the blue '32 tudor...

Glenn, My books show the original Lincoln 12 X 1-3/4 to be a 29. These were also used on Buicks. 29's have not been available for years. I've successfully used 12 X 2, 194's on original early Lincoln brakes. 194's are also a Buick shoe. Hope this helps.