Update on the regulator - The new regulator has the wrong mounting pattern for the 1928 coupe but the spring was much heavier than the original regulator spring. So I exchanged the springs and put the heavier spring in the original regulator, greased it up and it works fine now. Nice to have it...
I want to put a two-tooth steering column in a 1028 sport coupe but would like to maintain the red 1928 steering wheel. Can i get a red steering wheel to fit the two-tooth column?
The seven-tooth column has all new parts in it but the steering is way too loose and not fun to drive.
Thanks for...
Yes, it has the three-hole mount and looks just like the one being removed from the car except the wrong location of the crank mechanism and it is a little too thick compared to the one coming out.
First the spring was not attached to the correct location. I'm going to try to use the thicker...
Question on the right-hand window regulator.
I am attempting to put in a new window regulator for the right-side window. The spacing from the two top fasteners to the crank mechanism is about .250 shorter putting the crank mechanism too high in the door. The door will have to be ground out to...
Very interesting practices. Most owners have gotten away from the original 500-mile oil change requirement. With today's clean smooth roads, better oils, fuels and coolants it makes sense to space out oil changes.
Thank you all for your responses.
Al
I have been changing it around 1,000 to 1,500 miles.
Lately I've been driving about 2,000 miles a year.
Today I used Rotella which is very popular with the hobby. T5, synthetic blend, 15-40 weight.
Two different cars. Both had speedometers very hard to turn with a screwdriver inserted where the cable goes.
Thanks for the tip on "papanick"
I did free up one of the speedometers with 3-in-1 oil and ran it with an electric drill. That helped a lot and I put in a new cable and that one is...
Good morning all, This is the second time I have experienced an oval speedometer binding up and causing the speedometer cable to break. I think it's that zinc casting binding on an internal shaft. Anybody else having this problem.
Update - On the suggestion from a friend - Just above where the cable goes into the speedometer, there is a 3/32 brass plug that covers a wick like fiber. That wick holds oil and contacts the vertical shaft that drives the magnet. I removed the plug and wick and filled the hole with a light oil...