If you're getting power to the dimmer switch, your headlight switch is fine.
Check all the grounds on your headlights and park lights first. Intermittent or bad grounds will give you the symptoms you describe.
Your lights must have clean solid grounds to work properly.
Exactly. If you read the story in the latest Rodder's Journal of the Ford exec who drives his '34 coupe to work everyday and parks it in the executive garage you'll see that Ford has real car guys in the front offices now.
I also like that guy who's now the CEO of Dodge. He gets it.
The "Edsel...
According to Edelbrock's 2010 printed catalog they have cast iron bases.
However, on their website it says aluminum. Not sure what's up with that.
I picked one up and looked it over at the recent PRI show it seems heavy enough to be cast iron.
Join the "Falcon Registry" :
http://falconregistry.com/index.cfm
They have Ford shop manuals on-line.
Also check out "Auto Krafters" :
http://www.autokrafters.com/v4/go.gnf?s=autokrafters&t=&&d=products&product=45062
Thanks for the advice on optimizing a 6 volt system but my original question about the coil was because the conversion is already well underway.
6 volt systems could'nt have been all that great if the entire auto industry moved to 12 volts. And since this car has 60 years worth of patchwork...
I'm converting our '47 Mercury to 12 volt negative ground. Can I still use the original 6 volt coil with a ballast resistor, or do I need a new coil?
Can I use a generic canister type coil.