Oil 10W30 ????

My book says 20 weight for winter and 40 weight for summer. In my opinion 10 w is too thin in any case. I've never been able to find 20w40 , which would be ideal so I use 20w50. I figure the thicker weight would benefit the old engines, especially when used in a multi weight viscosity. I buy the Walmart 20w50 in five quart jugs at a good price . The Walmart oil is actually Mobil and I have used it for years with good service.
 
My book says 20 weight for winter and 40 weight for summer. In my opinion 10 w is too thin in any case. I've never been able to find 20w40 , which would be ideal so I use 20w50. I figure the thicker weight would benefit the old engines, especially when used in a multi weight viscosity. I buy the Walmart 20w50 in five quart jugs at a good price . The Walmart oil is actually Mobil and I have used it for years with good service.

20W50, I didn't see that coming but I would think your logic on older engines needing the extra heaviness.
 
I run Torco 40 racing oil. It has the zddp in it for thr old flat tappet cams. Oil for the new cars has no zinc in it.
The Rotella, Delo, etc. Diesel oils still have zinc (zddp) in them. Running an oil without zddp MAY cause cam wear.
 
My book says 20 weight for winter and 40 weight for summer. In my opinion 10 w is too thin in any case. I've never been able to find 20w40 , which would be ideal so I use 20w50. I figure the thicker weight would benefit the old engines, especially when used in a multi weight viscosity. I buy the Walmart 20w50 in five quart jugs at a good price . The Walmart oil is actually Mobil and I have used it for years with good service.

What book do you refer to ? A very contentious question with a sundry of answers !
Wayne
Section 3-2 Mechanics Handbook Vol I
 
A 10w30 and straight 30 weight oil at engine operating temperatures have the same viscosity. The only time the 10W30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin" so it will flow. I use 10w40 Castrol.

I would start with four quarts and check it on the dip stick.

Bob

Good point, Bob. First time I changed my oil I put in 5 qts. and it was over filled ~1/2 qt. according to the dip stick.
 
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I think we will all concur with the five quarts (if you are filling for the first time and nothing is sitting in the engine/dippers/etc). All else is up for debate.

As for me, I've been using straight weight 30 excepting when I use 15w40 rotella or whatever else is similar and available. For me the oil type never really mattered. Any new oil I put in my car would be burned up out of the car via the exhaust within 100 miles. Since it is a Model A, perhaps the question isn't "which oil should I use that is best for my engine?" Perhaps it is "which oil would look the nicest dripped on my garage floor?"
 
Since it's Christmas time coming, I think I'll make a list and keeping checking for things to add. It will eventually all come together........................
 
The book that I refer to is the original owners manual. Actually you probably can't go wrong with any modern oil. Any modern oil is better that what they had back in the day.

Actually ZDDP was needed with engines with cast iron camshafts , whether they run flat tappet or hydraulic lifters made no nifference. Model A's ran forged camshafts like the newest engines that are made today and ZDDP isn't really needed . Plus that, model A valve springs are low pressure compared to later engines and cause less wear on the cam lobes . ZDDP doesn't hurt but really isn't necessary for the model A .
 
Lots of choices out there.. My take is any oil that is 10W-30or40.. I change my oil twice this season and only drove 500 miles.. I figured get what little dirt out that way as oil is mostly cheap...
 
I didn't mean to be miss leading. I buy oil in 5 quart jugs but only add 4 quarts when I change the oil. The engine holds 5 quarts but one quart remains in the dipper tray and can't be drained unless the oil pan is removed.
 
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