My experience with 10% gas

I have had to replace my gas tank in my Ford 8N tractor because of rust caused by crap gas over the years. Also my small tank on the starter engine on my D2 is full of rust because of same problem.

But yesterday I decided to start my generator to check it out. It has a Briggs engine on it. I put crap gas in it a couple of years ago and put the Stabil stuff in it. It started right up but the gas shut off which is plastic, now leaks when it is turned on. So I would guess the crap gas had something to do with this problem.
 
I ran an '85 White (MTD) lawn tractor until 2012, must have started with E-10 in '88 or '89 here in Illinois. I left gas in it every end of season. It had a 19 horse Briggs, only issue I ever had was a weak magneto, never a fuel leak or carb trouble. It had a plastic tank so I never saw rust problems. Beat that thing like a government mule, still ran when I gave it away.
BTW, are you guys aware Henry ran ethanol BITD?

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]According to Ford spokeswoman Kristen Kinley, Henry Ford's first four-wheel
engine-powered vehicle, the quadracycle, ran strictly on ethanol in 1896.
When it was released in 1908, the Model T could run on either gasoline or
ethanol or a combination thereof. As the market embraced petroleum, Ford
stopped producing vehicles that could run on either fuel and focused on
gasoline engines. But the first few years of Model Ts could run on either
fuel. [/FONT]

When gas was .22/gal ethanol was only .14/gal. Henry believed ethanol would end our reliance on oil and benefit farmers at the same time.
 
My advice for anyone who has told me the have a generator for emergency power at home is....
Drain your gas tank completely and then run until the carburator is dry.
And at least once per year pull the starter rope a couple of times to make sure it does not seize.
If you do this the generator can sit for a whole pile of years and the odds of it starting when you need it are very, very good.
Can't tell you how many chainsaws, line trimmers, generators etc... that I have fixed for people just by draining out old stale fuel and refilling with fresh. Gas will not keep its punch forever even with stabilizers.
Adding fresh gas to a tank with stale gas in it only makes for more bad gas to deal with.
 
I think it has been forced on us by the corn lobby but then again I have seen no real down side to it
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No, except for that reduction in gas mileage which is made up for by BURNING MORE GAS so the net result in gas consumption is the same.

So the money transferred to the Corn Growers just goes to buy them more fertilizer (corn is a heavy feeder) and money which in turn is transferred to the oil companies (where do you think Carbo-Nitrates in fertilizer comes from?)

And we talk about global warming, but our national inconsistency on de-sequestration is apparent.

So because of the all money being transferred to the oil companies, you don't get to buy yourself more Model A parts (which is an investment in the past and not the future - shame on you and why do you do this instead of buying a new Chevrolet like your government does at "their" company with your tax money?)

Sorry - poking fun - and demonstrating umbrage at a once sensible political system.

Not a political board - shame on me.

Joe K
 
Around 1985, A neighbor asked me to junk his 66/67 chevrolet that he had totaled years before. When lifting the car onto to the truck, I got splashed with some gas. I Checked and found out that the tank was full. It must have been at least 12 Y.O. I drained it out and used it in my International H tractor. It worked fine! No corn juice in it though! But they were saying gas was only good for thirty days, then.
Terry

rwiegand said:
As with most products the 1% of folks who think they've experienced a bad outcome with a product complain publicly and loudly, the 99% for whom it worked just fine don't say anything, so the online buzz will always be driven by those who post. In the last 60 years of using questionable, badly stored, sometimes ancient, visibly contaminated, or otherwise unwise-to-use fuel I've never had an engine problem that I could convincingly blame on the fuel. Mostly it just works. YMMV.
Click to expand...
 
I have to buy the straight gas and oil mix from Sears for my weed wacker and chain saw,the ethanol destroys the plastic lines in the gas tanks,no ethanol free gas available in N.J.
 
1crosscut said:
My advice for anyone who has told me the have a generator for emergency power at home is....
Drain your gas tank completely and then run until the carburator is dry.
And at least once per year pull the starter rope a couple of times to make sure it does not seize.
If you do this the generator can sit for a whole pile of years and the odds of it starting when you need it are very, very good.
Can't tell you how many chainsaws, line trimmers, generators etc... that I have fixed for people just by draining out old stale fuel and refilling with fresh. Gas will not keep its punch forever even with stabilizers.
Adding fresh gas to a tank with stale gas in it only makes for more bad gas to deal with.
Click to expand...

Never drain the tank, only the carb, use about one tank of gas per Season. Always 'top-up' when needed. The conversion eases the angst.
8yrs and counting. YMMV

28kqcqv.jpg


Bob
:cool:
 
I have also let my generator set with alcohol gas with no problem with it running. the only thing that went wrong after about 5 years it ate up the rubber fuel line.
 
I think I have posted these comments previously but here goes again:

Mohawk, A small gas company here in Alberta has been boasting about selling ethanol laced gas since at least 1979. My 1979 fuel injected Volvo 244 would not run on it, I tried several times as this was my closest gas station. Finally gave up and switched to anything but Mohawk. This was before all gas was contaminated in this way. (This poor car was killed by a drunk neighbour with only 500,000 miles on the clock.)

Currently I use Shell Premium in my collector cars. My 1975 MG B idles about 500rpm faster, my 1928 Tudor will actually idle reliably, and my 1957 Chev stops shaking at idle.

My modern daily drivers with Flexfuel labels do not seem to care.
 
My modern daily drivers with Flexfuel labels do not seem to care.
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That's because the engine combustion is computer tuned to optimize under pre-programmed limits.

Try burning kerosene in it (like my Uncle did in his Model A during WWII) and you'll find yourself outside the programming.

It all depends on 1.) the particular setup (and capability) of the car. 2.) The endurance of the component parts to the fuel itself. And 3.)the longevity of the fuel under varying humidity/age/hygroscopic limits.

For your modern car, the first and second of these are pretty well covered. For the third of these, not so much as ALL cars suffer some from the hygroscopic tendency of ethanol gas mix.

Chain saws and other small engines weak on the first two - the third similar with all.

For the Model A, relatively adaptable to Ethanol mix (think the kerosene example) but weak on component endurance (rotting gas tanks also periods of non-use/gumming fine passages) And like the others, so-so on the third.

Joe K
 
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