Non Model A & B Distributors

triumphleroy said:
I know this is an old post BUT?
Maybe I am missing something here; but how is the Modified Mallory going to get oil to the shaft! Should an Oiler be added also? Like on an Stock A model or even the Mallory from earlier? Any one using one of these? Any more photos?
I remember reading about the modification somewhere but have not been able to find it lately! I really like the looks of this one...
Just wondering?
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Hey Leroy,
Photos: Here are two of Bubbas' latest creations of mod Mallory, limited edition...sans the UL tag,etc.
Very clean simple look and rec'd WITH dist shaft and and wire set. Centrifugal advance and setup by Jim ...with his majic touch :) ! Hasn't run yet, as it is for B that I'm SLOWLY putting together. However, others who have run this unit, say that it's the best..we'll see, eh ;) !!
 
pictures of Bubba ignition:
 

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Hardtimes,
I spoke with Jim aka "Bubba" First of this week and he say's that it will be January before he has some of these distributor made up! Leaning toward his or one from FSI but do not really know how much Bubba's cost on his is. What did it run if you don't mind my asking I have been unable to find a price on his site etc. my email is here on my profile and you can email me if you prefer. I think Jim (BUBBA) said he was going to be away from his shop next few weeks also. Also going to look around at the Texas Hillclimb event tomorrow to see what is being used. I just want daily driver quality not high performance.
 
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I 'looked around'. No one, IMO, can beat the quality/expertise of Bubba's product. Proof is in the 'pudding' as they say. Jim sells out of everything that he makes...and quickly. We are very lucky to have him as a friend and source of things ..distributor !
I'll PM you some information. But, let me say that his prices are more than competitive and getting a new anodized black distributor shaft plus a new set of plug wires, makes this an even better expenditure than I've ever received on such equipment. I've read that he is cutting back his work to a great extent (semi-retirement?) and so his product MAYBE harder to get and / or take longer. That's why I jumped in when I did much earlier.

As far as 'driver quality' dist, well I've used an elect kit that I installed in my dist body...many years ago. It runs GREAT and has never missed a beat in 10 years.
I also have an FSI red unit, that I've had for 5/6 years that I haven't even used...as backup. Now will use Bubba unit, and will use electronic mod stock unit, that I've been running as backup. Let us know what you find at the Texas Hillclimb !
 
Pete said:
I use Roto-Faze distributors with Jacobs computer ignitions.
Both have websites.
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Hey Pete,
'computer ignitions' ! Hm, as I'm computer challenged , how is this system setup, i.e.- is it simple swap in , you have to have computer to calibrate computer, what's involved :confused: Since you've already used this equipment, thot maybe you could give condensed short version on installation/use ?
 
I use modern Mallory dual point distributors in two of my model A engines. The first one came from Harrys model A parts in Oregon and the second one came from Berts in Denver. The Mallory dual point distributors have been the best and most trouble free distributors that I have ever used in any engine .
 
Spent this morning tuning up the new dizzy install from Bubba's Hot Rod Shop.
Bubba (GMC_BUBBA) installed a new dizzy and added a timing mark. WOW, big difference. Starts right up, has good mid range power band. Did not have the chance to see upper speeds yet.
Check it out...
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New timing mark from Modelaonly.net

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Great install... BIG Difference in over all performance, better response. Don't have to mess with your advance lever...
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:-)

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Yep, gota get rid of the black eyes...

If you need "T", Early V8 or "A" distributors... He IS THE MAN TO SEE...
Thanks BUBBA....

You are right, he is cutting back, and specializing...took a while to get this one...but well worth the wait...
 
would a list with a vacuum advance on and set up be better than just the mech advance.
I see on my A with only the 5.5 head and down draft carb you need to retard it going up a hill under full power,
So if only the mechanical advance is there would you be missing some power by not retarding under load .
Lawrie
 
Tierod Bill, you have a nice looking engine and compartment.
I hope tha green antifreeze shown was just a bit of spill while filling.
The botton of the radiator should have clips to hold the wiring harness.
It looks like you have a tall 1930-1 water outlet instead of a 28-9 shorter outlet.

You're right, those 1930-1 headlights need to go and get the correct 28-9 style.:)
 
Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.
 
Ford1931 said:
Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.
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I've never run one but have heard that they are hard on the center camshaft distributor drive teeth. The magneto that is driven off the front timing gear would probably be easier on the center camshaft.
 
Ford1931 said:
Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.
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It automaticly retards for starting.
Back in the '60's I had an A that had a vacum advance distrubutor on it. It came from a Jeep.
 
Tom Wesenberg: Thanks Tom..I'll look for the clips, I did not notice the green, until I posted the pictures, so investigation is in order. The Motor Serial Number: *A4181609* points to a 30 motor. Engine was made on Dec 1, 1930, Thanks to modelahouse.com. Should I switch to the shorter neck, or is it OK?
28-29 Acorn style Headlights are on the wish list. Thinking about a 12V conversion.
 
as tom said the goose neck you have its for a 30-31 as the radiator on those is taller. using the shorter neck will eliminate that bend you have in the upper hose.
 
Tierod_Bill said:
Tom Wesenberg: Thanks Tom..I'll look for the clips, I did not notice the green, until I posted the pictures, so investigation is in order. The Motor Serial Number: *A4181609* points to a 30 motor. Engine was made on Dec 1, 1930, Thanks to modelahouse.com. Should I switch to the shorter neck, or is it OK?
28-29 Acorn style Headlights are on the wish list. Thinking about a 12V conversion.
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As long as the longer 1930 upper water outlet isn't causing any problems I would leave it alone. Any time that the water neck is replaced there is a good risk of cracking the water neck. Being as its not a show car that will be entered in national judgeing there should be no problem. Save yourself some hassle and expense.

You can convert to twelve volt with the original generator with no mods to the generator and no wires will need to be changed as long as you keep it positive ground. I run my roadster 12 volt in this manner and really like it.
 
hardtimes said:
Hey Pete,
'computer ignitions' ! Hm, as I'm computer challenged , how is this system setup, i.e.- is it simple swap in , you have to have computer to calibrate computer, what's involved :confused: Since you've already used this equipment, thot maybe you could give condensed short version on installation/use ?
Click to expand...

Both the distributor and ignition are bolt in items. Nothing to adjust except initial timing as you would for a stock engine.
 
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