OK, I checked with a source and he said that if you used paint stripper with the car assembled, after you wipe off as much of the gunk as you can to wash the panels down with lacquer thinner. But in this case the residue has already dried. I'd use lacquer thinner anyway.
If the panels were removed from the car they could have been hosed down with water which is the customary procedure when u use stripper; then lacquer thinner.
I would grab an old fender or chunk of sheet metal and apply stripper and wipe as you did and let the residue dry and re-wipe with lacquer thinner and apply the epoxy you have in mind and test for adhesion.
We try to avoid the chemical complication of stripper.
I would take the extra step of using phosphoric acid as a wash (Ospho is one brand) over the bare metal after washing down with lacquer thinner. We always do this in our shop. If you do, do NOT wash the phosphoric acid off with water, just wipe it down and let it air dry. I have posted extensively on this forum about this, so use the search function to spare me the typing, and I always trigger a flood of naysayers that say this will cause nuclear destruction, sterility, world war, famine, etc etc. So you will have to be your own judge. However,the process is called 'passivation' and is well documented in the metallurgy books. And, if you failed to take this step in the very humid northeast, which I have gladly left behind, your paint would begin to fail in 5 yrs.
We always remove all old bondo, and typically find some rust underneath some of it. There are a lot of wannabe paint and bodymen out there who have some odd ideas of what to do with bondo, so beware unless you remove it all. We have found old foil gum wrappers, old pieces of window screen, etc embedded in old bondo.
As far as epoxy, get your metal as clean as can be, use Ospho as described in earlier posts, scuff with red scotch brite from an automotive paint supply house (buy an entire box, you are about to use a bunch of it), wipe down with pre-cleaner what you call wax and grease remover, and shoot your epoxy. Let cure 2 days. Start applying your bondo (Rage is one very good brand, forget the cheap stuff you find in automotive parts stores, they sand like rocks). Don't worry about any time window. In fact even if we can get bondo on there right after the 2 day cure period, we always scuff with red scotch brite. If you scuff, you can apply the bondo anytime you want. Once the bondo has all been blocked, you are gonna apply another coat of epoxy anyway, to answer the question an earlier responder brought up about scratching thru the first layer.
There is way way more to body and paint than you can possibly imagine, and it all involves pricey material, especially your color coat.
I have never heard of Shop Line, only Omni which I thought was their second line. But we shot Omni once for a customer who wanted it and it is a totally crap product, and we will never use it again. We use only Concept or PPG base/ 2021 clear.
I hate to do all this typing because invariably someone is gonna get on here and criticize everything I have written, despite that Miles and I have painted a boatload of cars with never one failure and despite that he went to restoration college at McPherson Kansas and knows more about all aspects of resto than most people 3 times his age.
So, If you have your own way of doing things, keep at it, and rag on someone else. Let the OP try to absorb as much as he can to get him to keep asking questions about the issues and maybe in the meantime he can find a night class in how to do this. There are such classes out there
Oh, and remove any and all silicone products from your shop/garage NOW else be ready to do the whole mess all over, since even storing them in your shop will cause fisheye later. I am talking about that tire shine crap and anything else with silicone in it
