Flow problems with eddie meyer head

T

trike84

Member
I have repop eddie myer heads on a 1936 LB engine and it over heats. radiator re-cored, new water pumps. new hoses, timing correct.
 
it boils the coolant and pegs the gauge. using 50/50 mix antifreeze, I'm in the process of changing out the rear gear from 411 to 378 with columbia, with the 411 its top speed was 55 mph.
 
Is this in a '36 or what? I have an 8BA in a '36 pickup with the '49 type oil hub 6 bladed fan, no shroud, 180 thermostats and it runs at about 175. A 59A in my '36 roadster that has a 6 bladed fan mounted in the stock position but off an alternator with a home made fan shroud and 180 thermostats has a hard time warming up to 155 in the garage, I have not got this one on the road yet. So I am just saying that '36's do not usually have the history for getting hot like say '40's do. The placement of the fan on the upper part of the radiator is the key, I think.
 
car is a 32 , motor is 1936 221 with Eddie Myer heads ,PM-7 , stromberg 97's , headers , smitty's , fan is run off generator, there are no springs in lower rad hoses
 
trike84 said:
I don't have any thermostats, maybe I should, the coolant maybe circ. to fast. found some on Ebay pricey.
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Wait until you get it cool before wasting time with stats, they only make an engine heat up and have nothing to do with cooling. I would have your pumps rebuilt by Skip in Florida and install one of his 3 lb pressure valves, put a good rubber seal in your cap and fill the radiator up to the filler neck. Your stock pumps each deliver 55 gallons of water in 5 minutes. His body modification and larger impeller pumps deliver 92 gallons each in 5 minutes. G.M.
 
i know it was boiled out, I dont know if it was checked for trapped casting sand. The engine has less than 1000 miles on it. maybe it isn't broke in yet
 
trike84 said:
i know it was boiled out, I dont know if it was checked for trapped casting sand. The engine has less than 1000 miles on it. maybe it isn't broke in yet
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This is a possibility. I had an O/T Corvette with a 327 I spent a lot of money getting rebuilt. When I got it back, the temperature would go way over 200 if I let it sit and idle for any period of time (it was not so bad running down the road). I did everything I could think of to fix the problem (re-setting the timing, re-adjusting the carb, changing the coolant and thermostats, etc.). After about 800 miles. everything came back to normal; at 1500 miles, I had to change out the 160 thermostats for 180's because it was running too cold. The only thing I can think of is that the engine was built over tight. It also turned out to have a high volume/hi pressure oil pump which caused other problems later that would have put additional load on the engine.

I would suggest making sure that there is nothing else wrong and giving it at least 1000 miles if there are no apparent other problems. You may get lucky like I did.

I will never let anyone whose main claim to fame is teat they build race engines touch any of my engines again.
 
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Retarded ignition timing, is a guess. Vacuum leak also, both will get it too hot.
I'm interested in your 55 mph max speed with 4.11 gears, that setup should easily do 70+ mph as a stock 21 stud can. It'll be buzzing a bit certainly, bit it should do it.
Retarded timing will eat power and get hot, as will a vacuum leak.
Martin.
 
I also would look else where as if it will only go 55 with the 4.11 gears something is wrong.look at the ford performance figures in the books and they say top speed is around 80 mph.
lawrie
 
scooder said:
Retarded ignition timing, is a guess. Vacuum leak also, both will get it too hot.
I'm interested in your 55 mph max speed with 4.11 gears, that setup should easily do 70+ mph as a stock 21 stud can. It'll be buzzing a bit certainly, bit it should do it.
Retarded timing will eat power and get hot, as will a vacuum leak.
Martin.
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Put me down for retarded timing as well.................what ignition are you using.?????:eek:
 
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