59a Flat head

Gary; a buddy of mine uses metric rings on his four groove pistons with no issues. I will verify if the finish needs to be addressed with the rings i use.
Those bronze guides look like they would work but would the umbrella seals keep the oil from getting to the valve stems and cause an issue?

I agree with you gary a hone plate is the best way to go.
 
Tim, you are correct i need to recondition the connecting rods as well. i will look at the french stuff since you mentioned it. Keep in mind If i race scta i need to use domestic parts. I was thinking of grinding off some of the casting flaws and roughness. I ground some of the roughness off the crank counter weights. it took a little work and needs more to get more smooth. the logic behind this is, the result would be a quicker throttle response, high revs, and a more balanced engine because the oil and air will slide off the counter weights when the crank spins through the air. I am testing out this theory. If i gain a few more horse power over standard i will be happy.
 
Richard said:
Tim, you are correct i need to recondition the connecting rods as well. i will look at the french stuff since you mentioned it. Keep in mind If i race scta i need to use domestic parts. I was thinking of grinding off some of the casting flaws and roughness. I ground some of the roughness off the crank counter weights. it took a little work and needs more to get more smooth. the logic behind this is, the result would be a quicker throttle response, high revs, and a more balanced engine because the oil and air will slide off the counter weights when the crank spins through the air. I am testing out this theory. If i gain a few more horse power over standard i will be happy.
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Somewhere on the interwebs is an essential read: Mike Bishop's Guide to Flathead Porting. It not only talks about porting the block, but I believe he discusses rods and crank. The crank pictured in this guide is a work of art.

Hopefully someone can provide a link to this guide. It is great.
 
Richard said:
Gary; a buddy of mine uses metric rings on his four groove pistons with no issues. I will verify if the finish needs to be addressed with the rings i use.
Those bronze guides look like they would work but would the umbrella seals keep the oil from getting to the valve stems and cause an issue?

I agree with you gary a hone plate is the best way to go.
Click to expand...

How do you run metric rings with a piston that doesn't have metric grooves??

R
 
Tim Ayers said:
Any thoughts about the NOS French rods? At $125, it seems like a great deal for I'm sure reconning them has to be more.
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I went with the French rods on my last 8BA build. I got them from Vern Tardel, they were cheaper( even with shipping to Alaska) than getting my original rods reconditioned.
 
Richard said:
Ronnie, the shoulder dimension is slightly different, this needs to be verified.
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The piston grooves must be metric size in width to accommodate metric rings.What pistons is he running that are 4 groove metric grooves?? What is the shoulder dimension you refer to. Rings have a thickness reference,a bore size reference,and a radial wall thickness.

R
 
Tim Ayers said:
Somewhere on the interwebs is an essential read: Mike Bishop's Guide to Flathead Porting. It not only talks about porting the block, but I believe he discusses rods and crank. The crank pictured in this guide is a work of art.

Hopefully someone can provide a link to this guide. It is great.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words, Tim. I'm not sure if the original article exists with pictures, so I'll include a few here to provide a sense of what the work entails. This first picture is a 4-inch-stroke SCAT crank that was lightened (by 12-plus pounds), given a serious aero carve for reduced windage, and a bit of polish to assist the aero plus remove stress risers from the surface. The red "X" on the front cheek is an indicator for some heavy metal to be added here for balancing.

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These next two images demonstrate the amount of material that can be safely removed, especially in the rod-journal area where it has the least effect on overall crank balance; those huge counterweights look like tempting targets for losing a lot of weight right away, but they're essential to the inherent goodness in the Ford flathead V-8 crankshaft. First, without any carving . . .

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. . . and with about 2/3 of the carving work done. This is the other side of the journal in the previous picture but it gives a sense of how much material can be removed without jeopardizing the strength of the crankshaft. The center counterweights have just begun to be carved.

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This 4-inch Mercury crankshaft illustrates the amount of material that can be removed from the counterweights that straddle the center main bearing.

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I'll look around in my photo files for additional images and see if I can find any that will add to the experience of carving flathead crankshafts.

Mike
 
Hi Mike, glad to see you're still taking nourishment. It's been awhile, Haven't done much porting lately, eyesight can't find the right spots anymore. You should ask Ray if he wants to sell the Bville motor, I understand it's still sitting there in the yard. Everything is going well here, Have a great day.
Ol' Ron
 
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