Hub puller

This is the one that I made like the one pictured on ebay. It works real well on Model A and also on the 40-48 Ford rear hubs. Afordman31
 

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I use the big 3 arm puller, the one that is bolted to the drum with 3 lug nuts, I have found the drum comes off easier if you use two 3# hammers , put one on the back side of the drum snout as a back up, hit the other side with the other hammer, go all away the drum snout 2 or 3 times, doing that distorts the snout just a little bit breaking the friction and breaking up any rust on the end of the axle making it a lot easier to pull drum
 
I have a Les Fairbanks puller that was designed for removing the rear drums from 1950s Chrysler products that have a tapered axle. It works really well. It pulls equally from all five studs as you tighten it down. I wonder if it will work on the Model A since it has the same bolt pattern. I'm wondering because I too would like to get the rear drums off and take a look at the brakes on my coupe.
 
My roadster has two different rear hubs. One with the inside groove and the other with an outside ring. Snyder's universal puller # A-1114-X handles both types of these hubs and cars from 1928 to 1948. Have used it several times and it works like a charm.

Glen
 
insomniacshotrods said:
Thanks for replies. I've read some post that they used the stud type and damaged things when hub was really stuck on.
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Pay attention to what Lona says in his answer, as if you get a puller and/or make one that will only pull one of the two types mentioned...well problems. Worse problems is if you use a drum puller and come up against a real badly stuck drum. Model A drums are NOT thick/strong as more recent drums, so that damage / destruction of drum must be considered.
 
I have the grooved drums like afordman shows in his picture , but im using 1940 wheels at the moment and my hub shows ,so ill have to repaint when i use this type of puller.
 
When pulling the drums off, back off the adjustment so the drum doesn't hang up on any grooves in the linings/drums.

Just did this on my Cabbie and worked fine.

Dick
 
CarlG said:
Looks a lot like the one that Mitchell sells.
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You are correct. I have a Mitchell that I purchased from Bert's at a reasonable price. Works great. It is one that will take off both types of Model A hubs. I have one type on one car and the other type on the other car. So needed one like this.
 
The Mitchell is what we carry in the trouble truck on Summer Tours. It fits both style hubs and is compact and works very well.
 
JohnLaVoy said:
The Mitchell is what we carry in the trouble truck on Summer Tours. It fits both style hubs and is compact and works very well.
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I've been using (Stanley) Proto 4011 and Proto 4001 (with pre-48 Ford adapter) for pulling hubs on all kinds of vehicles for many years, always dependably, but I'll certainly admit that the Mitchell Model A hub puller would take up a lot less room and weight in a road trip tool box.
 
I have the K. R. Wilson type puller that different vendors sell. It works well, but I suspect it works no better than some that are a whole lot cheaper. No matter what puller you use, leave the axle nut loosely in place. The hub often comes off with a hell of a bang!
 
There can be an advantage to the type that pulls from the studs, in the case I ran up against. My hub had the studs welded and one of the studs came loose. There was no way to remove the wheel, because the stud turned. I didn't have a puller that pulled from the studs and could not find one locally so made my own, using a three jaw puller mounted to the inside of an old hub. Sacrificed the hub cap but the hub and wheel came right off.
 

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