1948 Ford Sedan V8 - Clutch Replacement

L

ljdriver

Junior Member
I have a 1948 Ford Sedan V8 that has a shudder when I let the clutch out. I've replaced the front motor mounts and the rear transmission mount. That helped some but it's still shuddering when I let the clutch out. Another thing is the clutch doesn't engage until it's almost all the way out so I'm assuming it's pretty warn.

Anyway, from what I've read, the engine needs to be removed in order to get at the clutch and pressure plate. If the engine has to be removed can the transmission be left on or does that have to come off before removal? Has anyone had any luck replacing the pressure plate and clutch without removing the engine? How about the fly wheel in case it needs machine work? I haven't taken a close look at the underside yet, just thought someone has done the job while the engine is still in the car and would share some advice.
 
Have you tried adjusting the clutch?
I would say pulling engine would be the best way, oil pan had to come off to pull flywheel for machine work.
 
I did my 48 sedan many years ago leaving the engine in. Disconnected and shifted the drive train back a little, opened up floor hatch, took out transmission, flywheel was okay, Replaced clutch disk/plate, possioned plate using old transmission spline borrowed from junk yard, inserted transmission, etc etc. Takes two to deal with that transmission.
 
If the flywheel surface shows wear or blue streaks that indicate burning, it is better to have the flywheel resurfaced at a good machine shop. Otherwise, use a Scotchbrite pad, preferably in a drill, to deglaze the surface. Regardless of how careful you are, most old Fords will still have some shudder, even with a new disk and pressure place. This is because the facing on the disk is now made of an organic material, while the originals were covered with asbestos. This was removed due to health hazards. Years ago, the accepted method of reducing shudder was to pull up to a tree or power pole and burn the clutch a bit to take off any oil that leaked past the rear main seal. If you did that now, with the new material, it will damage the clutch.
 
Thanks for the replies gents! I'll probably give it a try without removing the engine because I have to remove the transmission anyway. Once that's out of the way it will be easier to see what has to be replaced/machined. Good winter project I think.....
 
Hi Everyone, Not sure if this is helpful, but... Here's a few tips on doing a '35/36 ****** that I wrote last spring in this thread:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133766

If you're doing a ****** pull, two great tips are...

Make a tool to make the ****** line-up at reinstall easier. The tool is two (or maybe more, we used two) eight to ten inch long bolts with the same thread for the block/****** bolts. Cut the heads off, and slot them for a screwdriver. At reinstall, place the bolts at 10-11 o'clock, and 1-2 o'clock positions in the block. Then lift the ****** onto the bolts, making the clutch spline SO much easier to arrange and slide the trans home (with the ****** in first, rear wheels up, hold one wheel and spin a the other rear wheel to turn trans to match clutch spline).

Second tip, get an automotive battery carrier, I like the kind made of belted rubber (like tire sorta) and has metal ends that can lock onto the posts, making it easier to pick up and carry a top-post battery. Get one of those and bolt it to the shift housing holes, and now your ****** is like a lunchbox with a handle on top. SO much easier to manhandle the ****** up onto the tool #1 (our open car made it easier to even stand up and do this).

This is not my trick, JM showed me trick #1, and I think I got #2 from the 'barn.

Edit to add a link to this thread about doing the deed in a '40.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112216&highlight=verytangled
 
Last edited:
VeryTangled said:
Hi Everyone, Not sure if this is helpful, but... Here's a few tips on doing a '35/36 ****** that I wrote last spring in this thread:

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133766

If you're doing a ****** pull, two great tips are...

Make a tool to make the ****** line-up at reinstall easier. The tool is two (or maybe more, we used two) eight to ten inch long bolts with the same thread for the block/****** bolts. Cut the heads off, and slot them for a screwdriver. At reinstall, place the bolts at 10-11 o'clock, and 1-2 o'clock positions in the block. Then lift the ****** onto the bolts, making the clutch spline SO much easier to arrange and slide the trans home (with the ****** in first, rear wheels up, hold one wheel and spin a the other rear wheel to turn trans to match clutch spline).

Second tip, get an automotive battery carrier, I like the kind made of belted rubber (like tire sorta) and has metal ends that can lock onto the posts, making it easier to pick up and carry a top-post battery. Get one of those and bolt it to the shift housing holes, and now your ****** is like a lunchbox with a handle on top. SO much easier to manhandle the ****** up onto the tool #1 (our open car made it easier to even stand up and do this).

This is not my trick, JM showed me trick #1, and I think I got #2 from the 'barn.

Edit to add a link to this thread about doing the deed in a '40.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112216&highlight=verytangled
Click to expand...

Don't want to jump on your tread, So for trick #two,;) us a short chain, about 18 inch long, small links, and tape the chain center, making a handle, works for me, finding the battery carrier strap may be hard to find?? .....OLD.....BILL:cool:
 
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