Picked up a 64 F100, 292 Y Block

46Ford4dr

46Ford4dr

Senior Member
Well the 47 Fordor went to a new home last year and I just picked up a 64 F100. Its been sitting in a garage since 1992. So the 292 is going to need some love to get going again.Advice on the best source for parts? I also have been reading about the Petronix. Seems like a good choice. Opinions?

I'd also like to know if there are any links out there as to what motor parts/body parts will swap over. These trucks seem trickier than the 47 was.
 

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Welcome to the frustrating world of the '64 Ford F- Series of trucks.. I use the term frustrating because many people think that the '64-65-66 F series are the same.. NOT!
The '64 was the last year for the 292 V8, however, it could be ordered with the 352, which means the 390-428 will fit right into the trucks, if you have the correct bell-housing and front mount.
The big difference between the '64-66 is the solid front axle on the '64. the '65-66 are twin I-beam, which make the cab different..
I've had several '64's, F-100/250, even a couple 350's. Currently have two '64's and one '66 4x...
If the truck has the original engine it will have a PCV system, with no road draft canister on the lower left of the engine.. The '64 blocks did not have a hole in the block for the road draft tube..
The camper special edition came out in '64, had a lot of neat features..
The 292's were very good engines if you kept high detergent oil in them... Gastrol GTX 20-50. That's all I have ever used in my 292's.. Some people think that non-detergent oil is best for the 292's. wrong, they have marginal oil passages which plug up with sludge if non-detergent oil is used...
 
If the 292 will start, first put an oil pressure gauge on it. Pull the valve covers and look for oil at the rocker arms. The head passages to the rockers, fed off the cam bearing, are the usual culprit for plugging up. If you've got oil up top, the rest of the program is the same as any other stored motor. Stuck valves, or rings, from sitting. You'll know a lot about the motor just looking under the valve covers, based on the amount of sludge in there.

John Mummert's site
http://www.ford-y-block.com

is a wealth of info and parts. Quality stuff, not imported from places unknown. Also lots of y block specific info at

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/default.aspx

Lots of members here are over there also.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
 
Thanks for all the guys! And I've quickly discovered that these are frustrating trucks as far as swapping parts goes. I will definitely keep this thread updated as I go along.

Right now I'm on the fence as far as upgrading the front brakes to a Dakota setup or a Crown avid setup or just do stock replacement. Its been nagging at me...
 
Opinions about Pertronix are as varied as opinions about what motor oil to use, etc. There are plenty of people using Pertronix as a points replacement. Personally, I like the ACCEL 2020 kit. It replaces the points/condenser set up in any 1957-73 V8 Ford distributor and kits/parts can be purchased at most auto parts stores around the country. If you look on fleabay they are about $65 with free shipping... just make sure you get the kit, not just the replacement pieces.

I have use that ACCEL unit in 4 different Y blocks, all with good results.
 
there No reason it shouldnt run on a stock unit for now.

My advice would be to not buy a bunch of stuff before you know what you need. Get a electronic ignition later (nothing wrong with them if you have all components inline). Till you have it tuned or running.

Pretty basic engine and your in a good spot with a 292. Everything that is great about a yblock will fit a 292.
 
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Personally I'd start with a compression test and oiling first, as mentioned. Rebuilding heads are a reasonable machine shop charge and my suggest if compression is good. Then move on to ignition and carberation. Note compression on a ohv is subject to rocker settings.

Just my thought.
 
46Ford4dr said:
Thanks for all the guys! And I've quickly discovered that these are frustrating trucks as far as swapping parts goes. I will definitely keep this thread updated as I go along.

Right now I'm on the fence as far as upgrading the front brakes to a Dakota setup or a Crown avid setup or just do stock replacement. Its been nagging at me...
Click to expand...

If I was going to upgrade I would go to a disc setup.
 
All of the above... And If you pull the rocker covers and find it all sludged up , better pull the sump and check the oil pick up as that will be nearly blocked..Careful with re-assembly the oil pickup goes out of the sump via a tube into the oil pump and has a large O ring seal with a jamb nut, Don't over tighten this nut, but also make sure its not sucking air as well another form of loss in oil pressure.
I use pertronix 3 and matching coil in a rebuilt dissy ..great
The Y block is a great motor.. Even when it leaks.. and it will ; o )
 
Actually not to tricky or frustrating once you get the hang of it. Very simple and gratifying to make a good reliable vehicle.
I have one just about like yours.
Unlike some other engines IMHO they will run EVEN when things are in bad shape when others would cease to run at all!
Like the others have mentioned, get the overhead oiling good, and make sure the oil pump and sump are working well.
I rec. Disk brakes, Stopping is a GOOD thing.
 
Many people have the belief that the oiling problems to the rocker arms is a result of the cam bearings having been installed wrong, or they have rotated out of alignment, blocking the oil passage holes.
It has been my personal experience that there are two culprits, one is inferior grades of oil, and/or a lack of regular servicing. The second problem is the design of the 292 oiling system. The oil passages come up through the center of the block, it then makes a right angle turn across the block for about an inch, lining up with the oil passage in the head (s) which aligning with the center rocker shaft mount.. The oil is distributed through the shaft to each rocker arm, a portion of the oil feeds through the rockers, running down the push rods to the lifters.. Another portion of the oil is returned to the engine via a tube, one on the front of one head, the other on the rear of the other head. The front tube lubricates the timing chain/gears, the rear tube lubricates the distributor shaft/gears..
The use of non-detergent oil in a Y-block will cause the small passage across the top of the block to plug up... No oil or a very reduced amount will get to the valve train, etc.
The common solution to this problem was to put an external oiling system on the engine via a small tube coming out of the block oil gallery, up to hollow rocker arm studs that held the valve covers on..
I had a '59 F100 in about 1971 that was not getting oil to the valve train. I was told to put an external system on the heads. When I pulled the valve covers to install the hollow studs I noted the extreme amount of sludge in the rocker arm area. At first I started to wash the sludge away, figuring I could flush the crud down into the pan, then drain it out..It became apparent to me that the rocker arms were worn out, I removed them, which revealed the the oil passage hole in the head was plugged. I tried to clear the hole with a wire, the wire would only go about an 1-1/2" and stop, I pulled the heads, finding the blocked passage in the block.
I cleaned every thing out, re-installed the heads, installed rebuilt shafts and rocker arms, installed the valve covers, new Castrol GTX 20/50 and drove the truck for several years..
 
Since you made mention that you were thinking about altering the front suspension, I'll offer up some suggestions, based on my experience's..
If you are just going to cruise around town, very little freeway/highway driving at speed, you might want to consider rebuilding the stock suspension and brakes.
The steering gears in the '59-64 F's leave much to be desired.. They are very heavy/hard turning in parking lots, etc. Power steering is almost impossible to find for them.
If you are going to drive the truck on the freeway a lot where panic stops occur on a regular basis, consider one of the TCI or Heidt front end kits that will fit onto your frame without cutting the frame rails.. The kits are engineered for the application, have disk brakes and can be purchased with a power rack.
The use of salvaged front ends from vehicles that are worn out and require cutting the frame is quickly becoming a thing of the past.. Finding the parts to rebuild a used front end, brakes, steering gears, etc., can be expensive and time consuming..
A Pertronix III is an excellent choice for an ignition upgrade. I've been using Pertronix units for years, I currently have them in three Y-blocks.
 
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