Sympathy pains for Old Henry

JM 35 Sedan said:
Is the bore over or the piston under in No. 1 cylinder? What does the cylinder wall finish look like in No. 1? How is the fitup of rod bushings to piston pins and pins in pistons? The bearings and journals on crankshaft do look nice in your pictures.
Click to expand...

John, This block was bored .060 over. It is effectively a 223" in a 215" disguise. All the cylinders are looking good. Such that I would just break the glaze. Rod pin bushings and pins are something I need to take a closer look at.
None seemed to have excessive movement.
 
I was trying to rationalize in my mind how No. 1 cylinder wound up with 0.022" clearance between piston and cylinder wall? If all cylinders are measuring correct diameter for +0.060 overbore how did that piston wear enough to give 0.022 clearance? Or did maybe that piston start out undersize from the begining? Just wondering.

41ford1 said:
John, This block was bored .060 over. It is effectively a 223" in a 215" disguise. All the cylinders are looking good. Such that I would just break the glaze. Rod pin bushings and pins are something I need to take a closer look at.
None seemed to have excessive movement.
Click to expand...
 
I always consider 1 thousands at the bottom of the piston bore a decent runner. Hey If your looking for a set of nos barker high lifts for your exhaust rockers send me a pm.

Great wagon by the way.
 
trainguy said:
Chuck are you measuring the piston across the skirts?.022 is way to much clearance !
Click to expand...

At the skirt area. I somehow reset zero when I measured the pistons yesterday. Rechecked bores and pistons today. All is good. Rechecked the pin play. No 2 seems to be the source of the knock. The big end moves about 1/4".

As far as metal expansion rates, I do know this. That bit of info should have bubbled to the top when I was thinking of piston slap getting worse when hot.
 
1/4"side play in just one rod,wow,how is that possible without major wear or bad machining on the crank cheeks..This engine ran fine for years.How much side play in the other rods.I understand what you are saying,it rocks side to side 1/4"! I think you have found the problem.
 
Last edited:
My guess the rod got bent when in stalling piston. If you had another engine for a piston and rod would get you going.
 
Yup, if held at the center of the pin it rocks from side to side. The rod looks straight. The small rod end bushing is worn. The block, head, crank and the piston & rod assemblies are at the machine shop. This six is down for a complete rebuild. The condition of the head and rings dictate that it is time. Hopefully there are no fatal cracks that show up.
 
It is a bit surprising this engine ran as good as it did until the knock showed up. The head work is in progress. Hardened seats, valve guides are on the list for that. I found out today that the block needs a sleeve. One cylinder was cracked. When all is done it will be a 227".
 
Update:
The machine shop needed two weeks to do the work and get the required parts.
The crack in #3 was circumferential near the top of the cylinder. It was low enough to catch the top comp ring. That cylinder is getting a sleeve. I will know today if I can get it back this week.
In the mean time I cleaned the parts I have in prep for paint. Forum member Tinker sold me a set of Barker High lift rockers. Those are installed on the rocker shaft now.
 

Attachments

  • Barker rocker set.jpg
    Barker rocker set.jpg
    103 KB · Views: 31
  • Barker rockers installed.jpg
    Barker rockers installed.jpg
    188.4 KB · Views: 32
Got it back from machining. It's now is a 226" OHV. Started the reassemby process. This should be a great runner.

BTW. Ol Ron knows his stuff! Hastings rings break in procedure on the box. " Tune engine to manufacturers specifications. Test run vehicle at 35MPH and accelerate at full throttle to from 35 to 55MPH. Repeat at least 10 times avoiding kick down on automatic transmission equipped vehicles. Cars may be driven normally after this although sustained high speed should be avoided. Trucks and tractors should be broken in on light duty if possible. Avoid lugging engine."
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 47
Last edited:
41ford1, glad to see your progress. I'm just a step ahead of you. Just put the engine back in on Friday. Hope to have it back on the road tomorrow or the next day.
 
Finished the install today. Ran it long enough to warm it up. Set the timing and checked for leaks. It sounds good. Will do some break in runs tomorrow as it is raining hard today.
 

Attachments

  • installed rebuild 10-16-14.jpg
    installed rebuild 10-16-14.jpg
    61.7 KB · Views: 35
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top