Red's Headers Full Flow Oil Filtering Plans

from past posts on the old 'Barn, it seemed to be the majority opinion to not run a filter at all....change your oil every 1,000 or 2,000 miles and all should be okay....newer detergent oils make all the difference....good luck...Mike
 
I used Red's 100% full flow plans on the flathead I am running in my '31 coupe, works good but the hardest part was installing the tubing and fittings behind the flywheel, I also didn't like the rubber hoses so mounted my filter on the engine at pan rail and used stainless tubing. Just finished another flathead for my '30 pickup and decided not to do the 100%, what I have done is use the high volume oil pump (M-19) which is more oil than is needed, instead of letting the excess just bypass the oil pump bypass valve I am using a small valve on the oil outlet from the engine to oil filter. Not using a orifice just the valve, let the engine get up to operating temperature and open the valve to filter until the oil pressure starts dropping, now there is a lot more oil going through the filter and later if there is any need for more oil, close the valve a little.

Vergil
 
I purchased a Red's Hamilton FF oil filter system and his instructions to put this system on my 59ab, 284 ci build. My machine shop could not understand the instructions and then refused to do the little oil line in the rear of the block because he felt it would be unreliable and probably prone to leaking. I wound up eliminating that small oil line but used everything else in the kit. So basically, I wound up with a system that's not 100% FF and looks like the system shown in the picture below. Good luck on whatever you decide to go with. JM

FullFlowOilSys-1.jpg
 
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JM 35 Sedan said:
I purchased a Red's Hamilton FF oil filter system and his instructions to put this system on my 59ab, 284 ci build. My machine shop could not understand the instructions and then refused to do the little oil line in the rear of the block because he felt it would be unreliable and probably prone to leaking. I wound up eliminated that small oil line but used everything else in the kit. So basically I wound up with a system that's not 100% FF and looks like the the system shown in the picture below. Good luck on whatever you decide to go with. JM

FullFlowOilSys-1.jpg
Click to expand...

So, what you ended up with was filtering everything after the rear main bearing?

Phil
 
Note that this is schematically the same as the way Ford put in inline filtering for military vehicles, AND the way Chevy routed its filter system in the SBC when they made the modern filter integral about 1958 on. So...the two engine that together were the backbone of amateur racing for more than most of our lifetimes both had at best 3/4 flow systems, and both engines were among the relatively few engines that did not need oil system mods for racing.
Look over the oiling schematic for a 350 Chevy and you will realize it is identical in layout to the 3/4 flow flathead system except for the extra galleries feeding the lifters and OHV stuff...
 
If the drawing posted above is the one they give you, I think it is also listed in every Flathead V8 hop-up book ever published as well.

I also believe Mike Bishop has real-time photos of how he does included in one of guides that can be found a a vartiety of sites like the HAMB, etc.

Good luck.
 
AZAV8 said:
So, what you ended up with was filtering everything after the rear main bearing?

Phil
Click to expand...

Yes, basically that is what I did by eliminating that piece of tubing. I did not want to take the chance of having that little piece of brake line tubing start leaking or completely fail and then have to pull the engine, remove the clutch & pp, flywheel, etc., to make some kind of fix. I'm happy with filtering 75 to 95% of the oil. Many here profess the no filter necessary logic, just change the oil frequently, but I always believe that some filtering is better than none. JMO, JM
 
Tim Ayers said:
If the drawing posted above is the one they give you, I think it is also listed in every Flathead V8 hop-up book ever published as well.

I also believe Mike Bishop has real-time photos of how he does included in one of guides that can be found a a vartiety of sites like the HAMB, etc.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

The drawing that I posted above is nothing like the rough sketch that Red's included with his FFF instructions that I bought from him. Yes, this same drawing is in many of the Flathead books, including the one my hero, Ol' Ron, wrote called "Nostalgia". Speaking of Ol' Ron where in the heck is he? Lets start emailing or calling him to get him to "Break On Through to the Other Side" and get over here to the New Barn. We need you here Ol' Ron!! JM
 
I spent some time trying to get brass fittings that would connect with copper tubing and mounting the filter on the pan. Sorry Charlie, I gave up on that idea. The bends coming out of the block are too severe to be practical with solid tubing. Now I will go with made up hydraulic lines by a shop. Probably mount on the passenger side firewall.
 
I've got Red's plans in my '50 8BA. I think that it is more difficult to modify the 8BA versus earlier due to ribbing at the back of the block to get around. Anyway, I don't have a lot of miles on the engine but everything seems to be working great. I put a lot of trust into green Loctite to hold the fittings together. Next one I do, which will be a 59A, will have green L and some very small holes drilled for safety wire in the fittings. The idea of filtering all of the oil before using it appeals to me but it could very well be over kill.
 
Hi i bought the Red's kit to do an 8ba style engine (1952 block) to put in 48 Ford. Wouldn't buy again after i see how it went, the engine is now full flow filter, no oil line behind flywheel lubed the rear main by drilling a hole same size as all other main passages straight down from rear cam bearing through the fuel pump push rod hole removed the push rod bushing and pluged hole, use an eletric pump. The existing hole to the rear main is pluged with a peice of 1/4 rod just stuck in there (bearing holds it there) The two vertical holes are easy in a Canadian block as they are there now ,at least in the blocks i have , they are enlarged for a 3/8 npt fiting the crossover hole can be pluged by taping for a 7/16 fine thread and use a short socket head set screw in there. I used the hoes from Reds but low pres hyd hose would work fine, engine will never make 200 psi . i put the remote filter on the firewall. Have used this system for approx 8000 miles not problems at all . hope this helps some Laurie
 
JM iv'e used that system for 8yr's on my worked 8ba with know problems...
Even if it's not 100% filtration it dosn't matter, as eventually all the oil will be filtered anyway.. Same drawing is in Mike Davidsons "Street Flathead"...........
 
I have used Red's, MCF, and the 95% method. Reds and MCF are hard to plumb but work fine. If I do another engine it will be the 95% version, simple to do low cost and provides adequate filtration with todays motor oils.
Pete
 
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