Looking for 1928 Briggs Fordor wood plans.

Dad has some wood pieces for a 1929 60-B he would sell for patterns. Not enough for a complete car, but possibly a start. Looking for good stuff for patterns is a real pain. Be thankfull that even the pieces you can not get patterns for are atleast available from the parts suppliers unlike a lot of the wood for the back and floor of the 1929 130-A Delivery and some other bodies. Rod
 
You can't-that is the short answer. Here is the long one. How much wood do you have and is it patternable? If not you can get the wood from a vendor but I hear they need a bit of work to fit snuggly. You can try Dan Gambill who is the pres. of the Town Sedan Club at townsedanclub@hotmail.com. If you need just a few pieces Dan showed a video of Brothers A Wood in Mesa Az. There they will do individual pieces, no idea how good they are. But the Dan has worked with them. If you are made of money you can get the original drawings from the Benson Archives. Hope this helps.

Mike
 
When I priced the wood for my leatherback it was over $4500!
Could not locate drawing anywhere.
Started repairing one piece at a time.
 
Mike, I have a question for you. If Ford designed the car would the wood plans not be at the Benson Archives? Or, did Briggs and Murray develop their own plans to what Ford wanted?

Mike
 
1930artdeco said:
Mike, I have a question for you. If Ford designed the car would the wood plans not be at the Benson Archives? Or, did Briggs and Murray develop their own plans to what Ford wanted?

Mike
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While I do not have the answer to whether Briggs or Murray shared the drawings, I do know that not every drawing ever produced was retained due to various reasons. While there may be wood drawings who knows the actual part numbers and revision number needed for each piece? Who is prepared to spend the money to have the drawings looked up either by an individual or by the staff.

I've been around these forums and magazines for years and never have I read of a source of drawing or even a list of drawing numbers needed for each body style.

A search on this site will show the lack of drawings or numbers. Do I see a potential for another research project?
 
I went through this on my 30 Briggs T.S. And as Fiddly Bits says $4500 was more than I wanted to spend. Actually, I did spend $1800 on the top wood and the sills. I made the rest using the old wood for a pattern. Just to be authentic, I cut down a big Ash tree that was in my back yard and had it milled into planks. According to Brent Terry, The Benson Ford has, at least, some drawings. but they get $25 per PAGE to reproduce them.
Terry
 
I made everypiece of my 29 leatherback from wood parts off the car. It was nice to have the orig parts but in the end the only part that matters is the fit of the metal parts, Don't get too hung up on accuracy of the wood.

I do have a rear header that is usable plus complete front seat parts for sale. Bill G
 
Bill Goddard said:
I made everypiece of my 29 leatherback from wood parts off the car. It was nice to have the orig parts but in the end the only part that matters is the fit of the metal parts, Don't get too hung up on accuracy of the wood.

I do have a rear header that is usable plus complete front seat parts for sale. Bill G
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The only real issue with that statement is the structural integrity of the body really depends on the joint fitment and the routing. The metal is only tacked onto the wood to provide weather-tite protection. Outside of that, the thickness and placement of the wood affects how the windows fit, and how the upholstery fits. Too thick and the glass cannot be installed tightly (leaks & air noises) and not thick enough and the mouldings stick out. If the wood is too thick, the upholstery panels do not have the correct shape, and wood too thin creates an uneven surface for the upholstery to attach to. I guess I see it differently....
 
Rightly or wrongly, I screwed and glued mine. About the accuracy of the wood. it's best to duplicate the size and shape as closely as possible. I shot for plus or minus .015 (1/64 th) on all surfaces. Someone on FB had an original print and it called for + or - .010. That's pretty close for wood. I checked some original pieces and on nominal sizes (1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2" etc) after 80 some years, the sizes were well within tolerances. That Ash seems not to move around very much. I used a vernier and a angle gauge. I kept it "period correct" by using slotted head wood screws. Be careful about drilling your holes and leaving enough to give the threads plenty of wood to grab.Then drill out your clearance hole for the shank of the screw. Wax your screws with a furniture wax (Not Pledge or any water based wax) such as Butcher's wax (google) This will help the screw thread it's way into the wood much easier.
Terry
 
I agree with Terry and that's the way I did mine. I just ment that you can go too far with accuracy. Of coarse it all has to fit to allow doors mouldings and up holstry to fit.
 
Terry said:
Rightly or wrongly, I screwed and glued mine. About the accuracy of the wood. it's best to duplicate the size and shape as closely as possible. I shot for plus or minus .015 (1/64 th) on all surfaces. Someone on FB had an original print and it called for + or - .010. That's pretty close for wood. I checked some original pieces and on nominal sizes (1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2" etc) after 80 some years, the sizes were well within tolerances. That Ash seems not to move around very much. I used a vernier and a angle gauge. I kept it "period correct" by using slotted head wood screws. Be careful about drilling your holes and leaving enough to give the threads plenty of wood to grab.Then drill out your clearance hole for the shank of the screw. Wax your screws with a furniture wax (Not Pledge or any water based wax) such as Butcher's wax (google) This will help the screw thread it's way into the wood much easier.
Terry
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Terry, I have to say this does beat the Band. Cutting down your own Ash Tree and having it milled then making the pieces. My ball cap is doffed to you.
 
IT was a happy coincidence, that's all. The tree had to come down and it was about the same time. I did not sacrifice the tree just to make parts. In my old FB name, Terry, NJ you can see the log on my truck as it's going to the mill, Heacock sawmill, a few miles north of Doylestown, Pa, On rt 611. They charged me $35 to saw an approximately 2 ft Dia log into various thicknesses. I don't know how many are aware of this, but Ash is threatened by the Asiatic Emerald Borer, All my Ash trees are showing signs of stress from this latest insidious pest from China.
Terry
 
Having installed all new wood and spent what felt like an eternity shaping it to fit, today I'm happy I followed Brent's advice to do job given the condition of my car. But Terry your job takes the cake hands down.
 
Terry said:
IT was a happy coincidence, that's all. The tree had to come down and it was about the same time. I did not sacrifice the tree just to make parts. In my old FB name, Terry, NJ you can see the log on my truck as it's going to the mill, Heacock sawmill, a few miles north of Doylestown, Pa, On rt 611. They charged me $35 to saw an approximately 2 ft Dia log into various thicknesses. I don't know how many are aware of this, but Ash is threatened by the Asiatic Emerald Borer, All my Ash trees are showing signs of stress from this latest insidious pest from China.
Terry
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I looked around for an ash tree or even an inexpensive source for ash and came up empty. (I could pay $$$ but that was what I was trying to avoid.)

My answer came when I saw an all plastic park bench........
 
I cut up three logs from that tree and I sell a thick plank (over 1 1/2 " thick) X8 - 10 ft for $30 and a thin one (Under 1 1/2") for $25. But before you pay shipping on that, Go look in the phone book for sawmills. Someone will have some Ash laying around.
Terry
 
I don't know where you are at. But my family's business all ways has tons of ash. We make windmill sucker rod.
 
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