Headlight aiming

Yes the bar looks to close to the radiator.

Bob
 

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I'm thinking the owner should run a seat belt or tow strap around the bar (near the end) and then use a come-a-long or such to pull the bar forward.
We need more pictures of the bar from the front and side views.
 
My headlights are too new inside to be originals. I think they are repop. The headlight bar is on correct but I think it is bent backwards toward the radiator. I am going to try the washer technique and later try to bend the bar. Thanks for the info. John
 
29spcoupe said:
I didn't know it could be moved. How much play is there in the bolts?
Click to expand...

-unfortunately, at least in my experience, there is very little play within that front fender/headlight bar/fender bracket assembly. I doubt you could get much play there unless you loosened the fender bracket at the frame horn.
 
As Ericr said, it's tight at the mount. The first time I removed my headlight bar to change the motor, it took some penetrating oil and light taps with the hammer to get it apart. I greased the bolts and now it comes apart with ease.

I just measure the air gap between the bar and radiator shell on my all original parts and undamaged 1928, and it's 15/16"
 
I don't see the piece you are talking about. On Tom's light I see a thick piece of metal that is sitting inside the socket. Is this what you mean? I tried putting dished washers in the socket, but they don't change the angle of the socket, so the result is the same.
Regards, John
 
The base of the headlight that fits into the socket on the light bar should be semi-ball shaped. There is a slot in it so that the mounting stud can slide from front to back. So you end up with a ball and socket joint that allows the headlight to pivot and then be locked down in place. I can' t tell from your picture if you have this ball, but even if you do, it appears your ball is sitting much deeper in the socket than what I have on my car.
 
The heavy slotted plate for the mounting bolt has to be there, or the 6 rivets wouldn't be holding anything and the headlamp would fall off the bar. I still think the bar needs to be pulled forward.

What's the air gap from the bar to the radiator shell?
 
Tom, there is 1 1/8 " between the radiator and the light bar. I think the problem is the repro headlights. The 'ball' part of the ball and socket does not appear to be as large as the originals. I tried putting dished washers in the socket, but that does not change the angle of the socket. I instead cut a dished washer in half and placed it in the back of the socket. I am now able to aim the headlights. Not perfect, but it works.
Regards, John
 
29spcoupe, nice ingenuity to fix the problem. I bet it's completely invisible too. All those "old farmers" out there would be proud of you.
 
I've messed with a lot of headlamps and I think you may want to look at the swivel bolt that connects to the headlight bar. The round "globe" of the bolt seems to be too small or the well in the headlight bar is too big. I would guess that either the bolt or the headlight bar are repop parts that don't work. I can't imagine what sort of "wear" would have to take place to have "widened" the well for the bolt. The other issue may be the "base" piece that the swivel bolt attaches to. I'd get some "donor" headlights and pull the parts you need from them to avoid any aftermarket issues. The swivel bolts were the same from '28 through '31 so the headlight bar "well" must also be the same (note that I am not saying the headlight bars themselves were the same just the "well")
 
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