Ford t5 adapter

[JSeery]

Just measured one of my hogsheads, I come up with 2 7/8" (see attached photos). VanPelt claims 2 3/4". That works out to between 7/8" and 1" for plate thickness. With different people taking different measurements on different parts guess it's not surprising to come up with an 1/8" discrepancy. I have always heard that the plate thickness was 1", so I would go with that.

Now a question, does the S10 input shaft have to be cut with this installation? I thought it did, but I have never done it, so really don't know. My mustang T5 (think the same shaft length as S10, 7.2) is about 3/16" to long so needs about .25 cut off.

 

[JSeery]

Just measured a second hogshead and it also came out 2 7/8". While I was at it measured both S10 and mustang T5 input shafts, they are the same length.

 

[Burton]

The input shaft on the '94-'95 Mustang T5 is .067" longer than the earlier T5's. It would need to be cut. I haven't installed mine yet, but I don't think the early Mustang or S10 5 speed would need to be cut.

 

[JSeery]

Nope, I'm talking 80s, early 90s mustang T5s not the 94 and later. The earlier ones are 7.2" (except the V6s there different). It is the 7.2" input shaft that needs to be cut. I know some of the S10s also need cut, but not sure which combination that is required with.

 

[JSeery]

Couple of diagrams might help. I have several mustang T5s and an S10 T5 and mine measure the same as the ones in the diagrams, they are all 7.2. Might check your S10 and see what it measures. Everyone I have talked with has the same situation I am seeing, the input shaft hits the crankshaft and requires cutting for clearance. Again, I only have direct experience with the ford T5s. But, the S10 T5 I have has the same length input shaft so would have the same issue with a 1" adapter plate.

 

[jlb51]

Try these guys at www.fordy-block .com John Mummert's shop in El Cajon, CA. He makes as adapter for Mustang T5's into '49 to '64 Fords. I'm considering using his to put a Ford T5 in my '51 coupe. Good guys, I've used them for my y-block parts. The adapter sells for $199.00. Also , google this- "A possible solution for cable speedometer's". Regarding relocating the shifter on Mustang T5's or Camaro's. Seems like a good alternative to the S10 's. I never liked the gear ratio's in S10's either. Hope this is of some help. Thanks , jlb51.

 

[Ol' Ron]

My 87 Mustang T-5 does not have to be cut with the 11/16 adapter or the Astro van unit in Richards application. However if the shaft is longer make the adapter thicker./

 

[JSeery]

My 87 Mustang T-5 does not have to be cut with the 11/16 adapter or the Astro van unit in Richards application. However if the shaft is longer make the adapter thicker./

I think the issue is that 1" plate is a lot easier to come by and less expensive. It is a fairly simple task to cut the pilot bearing portion of the input shaft, so mainly an economic and availability issue. Of course a thicker 1 1/4" plate would work.

I believe the Astro T5 has a 6.5" input shaft length, a completely different animal! Also, think both of these installs were behind a 49-53 block and didn't uses a hogshead, again completely different animal. There are several methods to adapt a number of different T5s to different flatheads. I am talking about a 59a block using a hogshead and flat plate adapter and a mustang (up to 93) T5. Not saying other methods don't work and there might be some that are better, but I know about 59a, hogshead, mustang T5.

 

[JSeery]

Well, this is interesting! All this worry about nothing, In my case anyway. I have been doing all of my mustang T5 installation work on a different engine/crank than the one I will be using eventually. I have two engine/crank combinations as well as several hogsheads. The one I have been using has a stock 1948 crank in it and the T5 input shaft was hitting the rear of the crank. Today I decided to take a couple of measurements off the other engine/crank. It has a 4 1/8 stroker crank in it. Turns out that the recess in the back of the crank is much larger and there is all kinds of room for the T5 input shaft. But the information might help anyone using a stock crank with a small recess.

 

[JSeery]

Well, I have the S10 input shaft information now for anyone who is interested. Turns out that all the shafts are the same length from 83-92. Thanks to gimpyshotrods on the HAMB and Cornhuskers and the replacement parts information. The shafts on the S10s are 7.16 and they are to long for the adapters that are out there, in the sense that the pilot bearing portion of the shaft extends beyond the flywheel/pilot bearing. This may or may not be a problem depending on your crankshaft. According to Cornhuskers there are differences in the crankshafts with some having a recess that will clear the shaft and some that will not. The solution is to cut the shaft about 1/4 inch.

 

[Flat Ernie]

JSeery - the answer, as always, is "it depends"

There's a couple things to consider - final drive ratio and tire size. Those all go into final ratio. While I would not recommend the 4.03 gearset with a 4.11 final drive ratio, it's still light years ahead of the stock 3-spd! So it's all relative too....ideal solution? Nope. Better than before? Yep. What fits your budget? And adapting the S10 is usually easier and cheaper for most folks buying "off the shelf".

As for the price - you're right - if you can get T5Z for $1100 no shipping, in the end, it may be a better deal than a $400 used box that you have to go through and replace components. No question. Money up front or money down the road.

As for the OD, many flatheads won't pull a .63 OD on anything other than a modest grade. If you live in the mountains, or even hills, the .63 is nearly useless in all but the lightest vehicles with a strong engine.

The torque ratings are misleading too - they're continuous duty, 100K ratings. So just because a flathead has a 200lb/ft torque output and a given T5 has a 165lb/ft rating doesn't mean squat in and of itself...there are too many factors that go into it.

So, it depends. It's an incredibly versatile transmission. In a perfect world, money no object, I'd nearly always choose to build a custom T5. Working with a budget or availability? Use what you can afford, or what you have....

 

[Richard in Florida]

I believe the Astro T5 has a 6.5" input shaft length, a completely different animal!

Any input shaft can be used on any T5 case. I have a Ford input shaft on my Astro Van front case, and it works fine in my installation.

Why do people look for the hardest way to do this?

 

[JSeery]

Any input shaft can be used on any T5 case. I have a Ford input shaft on my Astro Van front case, and it works fine in my installation.

Why do people look for the hardest way to do this?

I don't believe your statement is completely true. Some input shafts will interchange, but not all. I'm not sure, but don't think you can mix up WC and NWC input shafts. I'm also not sure about the cone bearing vs the flat bearings.

It's not hard for me, I stick with the Ford stuff, case and input shafts! Good information though for the folks wanting to use the Astro case. I personally don't like the Astro gear ratios, but some people do.

Is your avatar the car the T5 is in? If so, you can probably use the lower gearing, that is a lot heavier car than I work with.

 

[Richard in Florida]

Plus bad guts in the Astro transmission.

Anyone contemplating putting a T5 behind his flathead should keep in mind that just about ANY gear set can be put into just about ANY T5 case. Same goes for input shafts, rear sections, and output shafts.

There are probably a few exceptions, but only a few, I'll bet.

For my '53, the IDEAL shifter location was obtained with an Astro Van main case. An S10 shifter put the stick too far forward, and a Mustang shifter put it under the front edge of the seat.

I put a 2.95 (first gear) gear set into the Astro Van case along with a Ford input shaft.

Oh, and if someone says you need a World Class T5, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Unless your flathead is sending 600-700 horsepower to the transmission, you'll never break a NWC T5.

 

[JSeery]

Anyone contemplating putting a T5 behind his flathead should keep in mind that just about ANY gear set can be put into just about ANY T5 case. Same goes for input shafts, rear sections, and output shafts.

There are probably a few exceptions, but only a few, I'll bet.

For my '53, the IDEAL shifter location was obtained with an Astro Van main case. An S10 shifter put the stick too far forward, and a Mustang shifter put it under the front edge of the seat.

I put a 2.95 (first gear) gear set into the Astro Van case along with a Ford input shaft.

Oh, and if someone says you need a World Class T5, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Unless your flathead is sending 600-700 horsepower to the transmission, you'll never break a NWC T5.

That's the gears I would have used, 2.95! Sounds good, what rear axle gear do you have paired with it?

 

[Richard in Florida]

That's the gears I would have used, 2.95! Sounds good, what rear axle gear do you have paired with it?

I started with a 4.10, and that was great! In 5th gear at 70 mph I was turning 2600 rpm, right in the middle of the L-100's "sweet spot."

Then, anticipating some long road trips (that didn't happen), I put in a 3.54. 70 mph became 2200 rpm, at the lower edge of the sweet spot.

The car wasn't as much fun to drive... so I put the 4.10 back in. The fun resumed.

 

[Richard in Florida]

I don't believe your statement is completely true. Some input shafts will interchange, but not all. I'm not sure, but don't think you can mix up WC and NWC input shafts. I'm also not sure about the cone bearing vs the flat bearings.

Well, golly, you might be right. I didn't spend any time in the library before I made that guess. I somehow have a Camaro 2.95 gear set and a Ford input shaft in my Astro Van case.

I personally don't like the Astro gear ratios, but some people do.

Like I said above, I put a 2.95 Camaro gear set in my Astro Van case.

Is your avatar the car the T5 is in?

Yes, it is. The engine is bored and stroked to 276 with an L-100, Johnson lifters, Zephyr springs, Egge pistons, Edelbrock heads, 8.5:1 compression, specially modified BIG Chevy HEI distributor functioning as a magnetic trigger firing a Crane Cams HI-6 ignition with an HEI backup, an Edelbrock 500 CFM Performer four-barrel on an Edelbrock manifold, Skip's water pumps, Red's tubular steel headers, and it's balanced from the front pulley to the pressure plate.

It moves that heavy car very nicely.

 

[JSeery]

Nice set up!

 

[southfork]

Need some clarification: Does the Ford truck hogshead only work for adapting FORD T5 transmissions to flatheads (with adapter plate)? Or can it also work for adapting Chevy S-10, Astro, or Camero T5 transmissions to flatheads? Please explain why.

 

[JSeery]

It will work with any T5 (or other transmissions as far as that goes). It is way easier with the Chevy S10 bolt pattern as you can buy the adapter plates and any other parts you need to set it up. Year ago a few people also made the Ford pattern adapter plates, now you have to make your own. All the Hogshead is doing is providing you the back half of the bellhousing for the 59a flathead blocks. There are several ways to adapt a T5 to a Flathead:
1.) You can buy a cast aluminum bellhousing part similar to the hogshead that is already the correct length and with the bolt pattern you need.
2.) You can use a Hogshead and then a 1 inch adapter plate with the bolt pattern you need.
3.) On the later flatheads you can use the steel bellhousing and drill the correct bolt pattern into it.

Attached Photos:
The first is a Ford pattern adapter plate.
Chevy pattern adapter plate on hogshead and steel housing for later block.
Chevy pattern adapter plate
Chevy pattern adapter plate attached to hogshead.
Chevy S10 setup for a late model flathead block.