Oil in Distributor..!Help!

The distributor shaft has an oil groove that while rotating the oil moves rearward and back to the engine, If the groove is blocked with caked dirt, the distributor main shaft is worn (0.8625 as Mfg. & 0.861 wear limit) or the bushing is worn (0.863 as Mfg. & 0.8655 wear limit) these could effect the ability of the groove to return the oil. Make sure the engine oil fill vent (at the top of the fuel pump adaptor) is clean, if excessive pressure builds up, in the engine, it will force oil out.
 
Hary, this is the hole Bruce is talking about. Make sure it isn't blocked.

crab03_zps175d19db.jpg


Mart.

Mart!
I found a picture when I assembled my motor. If you can see, probably that hole can be blocked with paint.

When I took the dist out, never noticed that hole I did not know that It existed.

I must check that

Thank Mart.
 

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It seems like the timing gear chamber gets some oil flow from the oil pressure bypass valve. There is also a plug behind the cam drive gear for the valve chamber feed tube that is supposed to stop the flow at the front and can be removed for clean out. They sometimes leak but most generally after an overhaul when the plug has been removed to clean out the tube and not reinstalled properly. It's normal to have oil in the timing gear chamber but is shouldn't be flooding. I've seen a few engines that had oil pouring out the front oil pan vent due to flooding in there.

Hi rotorwrech!

To check all you say must I take the intake manifold out?
Thank

Hary
 
YES our flatheads do leak oil. some more than others, there is no cam seal per say... the front cam bearing feed oil the front main bearing and then the crank is filled with oil from the front main, and from the crank it feeds to rods, the center main is feed the same way from the cam to the main and to the rods ,...ALL under oil pressure.... each bearing in the system loses some oil at each point, and returned to the pan ,, ready to go again ... clear as mud, right... the timing gear is not feed... Henry was big on splash it is part of the splash system, and so is the disturber, yes that hole in the top of the bushing / bearing area you were ask the check for lose in the rear of the dist. is part of the splash system as are the water pumps oiled, in the timing gear area splash system .... I'am beginning the think you have to much PRESSURE in the crank case area, Have you put on a NEW oil fill cap ?? maybe a chrome one ?? OR ... a splash of mud, road tare, dead rodent ,,, and have plugged the vent, at the right front corner of the oil pan, its a small triangle shaped looking down, with a small vent hole to the back side ...should be clear, open or with steelwool in the opening ?? so it will vent ?? Maybe that"s where your squeal is coming from ?? sorry.. too much bla..bla....... OLD.....BILL

Bill!

When the engine came from grinding shop, the man told me to use old oil, this was to wash the engine and afterwards change the old oil to a new one.
All what I say above happened two years ago.

I must check all you mention

OR ... a splash of mud, road tare, dead rodent ,,, and have plugged the vent, at the right front corner of the oil pan, its a small triangle shaped looking down, with a small vent hole to the back side ...should be clear, open or with steelwool in the opening ?? so it will vent ?? Maybe that"s where your squeal is coming from ??

I really thank your opinion
 
The distributor shaft has an oil groove that while rotating the oil moves rearward and back to the engine, If the groove is blocked with caked dirt, the distributor main shaft is worn (0.8625 as Mfg. & 0.861 wear limit) or the bushing is worn (0.863 as Mfg. & 0.8655 wear limit) these could effect the ability of the groove to return the oil. Make sure the engine oil fill vent (at the top of the fuel pump adaptor) is clean, if excessive pressure builds up, in the engine, it will force oil out.

Terry!

I will check what you say too.

Thank you
 
Hary, this is the hole Bruce is talking about. Make sure it isn't blocked.

crab03_zps175d19db.jpg


Mart.

Dear Mart!
Today I could finally take the dist out. I found that the small hole was BLOCKED, very blocked that I needed a strong tool to clean it.
I changed dist gasket I assembled all again.
I said that there was a little noise, when I started the engine, noise begun but in a second it stopped. All this after have cleaned the small hole you show in pic.

I must drive my car to know if there is something strange.
What do you think?

I really thank all for your time and help.

Hary
 
Well, I'm bringing this thread back because it is much of the same happening with my 1cm engine. This is a new build with only a few hours on it and about 2 miles on the AV8. I'm chasing a misfire and decided to pull the crab distr and check the inside. I have noticed an oil drip coming from the front but thought it was from the crankshaft. When I got the distr out I noticed oil collected inside and was dripping out where the cap went on. The oil was traveling through to the rotor. Pulled the rotor and inside was wet with oil and dripped down and out the cap. A few pics. To be cont.
 

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There are no plugged holes that I can see. The pressure buildup idea seams to be an answer, but there is a breather where fuel pump was. Also has a pcv valve setup. How is the oil getting to the inside? I see some brass filings in there too. Any ideas? No slop in the shaft/bushings.
 
Two thoughts...
1. Is shaft loose in rear bushing? I suspect that you didn't overlook that, but check it out.
2. More subtle, possibly related to that oil inside rotor...there is an internal feed there. Remove shaft, look for a TINY hole in area of front bushing. Oil finds its way into shaft back at rear bearing area, meanders though a passage filled with some sort of cloth/fiber, oils bushing up front through a pinhole. Obviously if working correctly oil delivery is very limited. I do not know if or how this system could go mad and somehow pass too much oil, but check it out. Maybe something weird involving that, which would give a reasonable explanation for some of your symptoms.
 
To add to what Bruce said, remove the wick plug between the drive keys, clean the threads and reinstall with sealant. Make sure it is tight or stake it in place if necessary. Don't thread it in too far or it may get trapped inside the shaft.

Lonnie
 
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And the small brass filings come from the rotor tip more than likely , we usually clearance the rotor a bit.
The oil is a mystery to me for sure assuming the bleed is open ..????????
Someone have a answer ??????????
 
All visible holes are open. I'll do what was suggested. Thanks.
 

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