LEDs
- Thread starter Patrick L.
- Start date
Patrick L.
Well-known member
The catalogs show 3CP and 10CP bulbs. I haven't looked up the wattage for them yet.
My cowl lights have #53 bulbs, haven't checked their muscularity yet.
I have a feeling that the electronic 33 series 3 pin flasher that the vendors handle just may work for what I'm wanting to do. It appears these flashers may not care much about voltage.
If I get this mess worked out, I'll post it. Heck, I'll post it if I don't.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
Hmm, good point. If it turns into a waste of $12 for a burnt up flasher, maybe I'll turn the battery around and try again.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
More of the story. I said I'd get back, so, here it is. [ 6v]
After the accident I decided to brighten up the rear by installing LEDs. I thought I'd get state legal and install red lens so I ordered the complete tail light assemblies since it appeared easier and cheaper. There is a jumper lead between the two LEDs in each assembly. This lead needs to be clipped which is not mentioned with the lights or they will operate together.
The cowl lights are used along with the parking lights for the fronts. 3CP were in the cowls. No numbers on them except for the CP. I installed 10 watt bulbs in their place. There was nothing on those bulbs except for made in china and 10 watt. No number or CP. There are more than 3 CP though/brighter.
Everything works, almost. Turns are through a Signal-stat 900. The only 3 pin flashers I happen to have are #535 thermal's. The lights will start to flash once the flasher warms up which takes a minute or so. The lights operate differently with different 535 flashers.
I did not try to add a resistor or extra bulb, I'll try another flasher first.
I'll try to find locally an electronic 33 series 3 pin flasher. That seems to be about the most forgiving one if the spec sheet is to be believed. I'm trying to figure out if they are actually polarity sensitive.
These rear lights are considerably brighter than the originals, but, don't look right. I guess there is always a trade-off. Hopefully they are safer.
Sorry for being long winded.
After the accident I decided to brighten up the rear by installing LEDs. I thought I'd get state legal and install red lens so I ordered the complete tail light assemblies since it appeared easier and cheaper. There is a jumper lead between the two LEDs in each assembly. This lead needs to be clipped which is not mentioned with the lights or they will operate together.
The cowl lights are used along with the parking lights for the fronts. 3CP were in the cowls. No numbers on them except for the CP. I installed 10 watt bulbs in their place. There was nothing on those bulbs except for made in china and 10 watt. No number or CP. There are more than 3 CP though/brighter.
Everything works, almost. Turns are through a Signal-stat 900. The only 3 pin flashers I happen to have are #535 thermal's. The lights will start to flash once the flasher warms up which takes a minute or so. The lights operate differently with different 535 flashers.
I did not try to add a resistor or extra bulb, I'll try another flasher first.
I'll try to find locally an electronic 33 series 3 pin flasher. That seems to be about the most forgiving one if the spec sheet is to be believed. I'm trying to figure out if they are actually polarity sensitive.
These rear lights are considerably brighter than the originals, but, don't look right. I guess there is always a trade-off. Hopefully they are safer.
Sorry for being long winded.
Patrick L.
Well-known member
So far, the 260/535 thermal flasher is the way to go. Some extra resistance is/may be needed in the form higher CP/ wattage bulbs for the fronts.
I've yet to find an electronic flasher that will work and am running out of patience. Plus I could be buying a lot more beer for what those flashers cost.
I've yet to find an electronic flasher that will work and am running out of patience. Plus I could be buying a lot more beer for what those flashers cost.
