question about intermittent spark

drumyn29

drumyn29

Senior Member
I have been battling this for a while now and can't figure out a solution.

I did notice that when I turn the key on, the ammeter does not move.

I ohm tested coil and it seems to get spark in retard position but it seems when I go into advance it dies. I thought it was somehow grounding out with points but everything looks great.
 
more information
style of points orig or modern
style of lower plate wire or wireless
style of ignition switch pop out or modern style
 
style of points modern
style of lower plate wire
style of ignition switch is stock from what I can tell, turn it and go, no pop in or out
 
I worked on one that did the same thing, and it was the lower plate wire terminal hitting the spring when advanced. Be sure the wire terminal is bent 90*, so it's close to the nut and not sticking out so far it hits something.
 
i agree with tom to check the lower plate wiring for shorting out. bad insulation etc.
thats whats flexing when you move the advance lever.
the amp meter will only move when you turn the key on if the points are closed
 
It also seems like the spark is small sometimes and bigger other times for no reason, sound familiar?

I'll check the lower plate again.
 
This is the picture before I turned the top wire in a different direction. It's running amazing now, damn pain in the *** ford!!!

I'm guessing ,maybe it was the copper wire that may have been rubbing in spring?
 
oops
 

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Here is Marco's picture showing how the wire is bent and placed.
 

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drumyn29, your first picture shows a potential problem, or two.
Is that the fine strand 100 or more strands wire?

Notice the terminal has TWO legs that fold over the wire. The first leg should wrap around the wire insulation, and the second leg wraps around the wire, then the wire should be soldered to the terminal.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
drumyn29, your first picture shows a potential problem, or two.
Is that the fine strand 100 or more strands wire?

Notice the terminal has TWO legs that fold over the wire. The first leg should wrap around the wire insulation, and the second leg wraps around the wire, then the wire should be soldered to the terminal.
Click to expand...


It actually looks like its crimped over the insulation and not even that much of the wire. I'll solder tomorrow.
 
I have a question, upon looking at Marco's illustration.

I did not use the phenol insulating washer for the condenser, but my car has been running just fine.

Should I be concerned that I did not install the phenol insulating washer?

Thanks.
 
I never had a phenol ins. washer installed,no problem since 1961,I would change that wire to the multistrand,it will break eventually.
 
I moved the wire over a bit and it runs awesome!

I inspected the wire and the copper doesn't look frayed or old and it was soldered previously, should i replace?
 
drumyn29 said:
I moved the wire over a bit and it runs awesome!

I inspected the wire and the copper doesn't look frayed or old and it was soldered previously, should i replace?
Click to expand...

You should replace if it isn't the very find 100 or more strand wire. Also be sure the end leg is wrapped over the wire only and soldered, and the next leg in is wrapped over the insulation. By wrapping it over the insulation the entire length of the wire has the same fleibility.

If the wire is bare where it leaves the terminal, then that spot can more easily touch the spring and short and it is also the weakest point and will do the majority of the flexing and break there much sooner.:mad:

If you have a bare spot at the terminal, you can give it several coats of liquid tape to help it.
 
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