1933 - 4 cyl to V 8

not sure but any of the 4 cyl stuff you wanna get rid of I'd be interested. Especially engine tins... Robert at (904) 704-3564.
 
The following comments are based on my experience with my '32 and I assume they will mostly apply to your '33.

The driveshaft is a different length (not applicable to '32, only '33-'34)
Of course engine, motor mounts
Muffler and exhaust system before muffler (same after)
Radiator
Radiator support rods (maybe, they are different on a '32)
Engine steady rods (this is an assumption based on '32)
Hubcaps
Transmission (gears interchange but cases are different)
Choke linkage
Accelerator linkage
Engine splash pans
Gas line may need to be routed from right on 4 to left on V8 (this is the way it is on a '32)
Need to accept the fact that the serial number (VIN) is for a 4 cylinder

Interesting to note on the '32 the increase in value for the car is about the same as the cost of making the change

A couple of final thoughts. I like the 4 cylinder and it is unique. You should add your general location to your post and to your profile, the guy in post #2 may be your next door neighbor.

Charlie Stephens
 
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Charlie Stephens said:
The following comments are based on my experience with my '32 and I assume they will mostly apply to your '33.

The driveshaft is a different length

One final thought, I like the 4 cylinder and it is unique.

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

Are you sure about the drive shaft length as the K-member is the dividing point and they are the same???
 
Capn John said:
Are you sure about the drive shaft length as the K-member is the dividing point and they are the same???
Click to expand...
Thanks for catching it. I changed my previous post based on your comment. I should have clarified the driveshaft comment was not based on my '32 experience. The drive shaft is the same length for the 4 and the V8 in '32.

Charlie Stephens
 
You can upgrade you head to a high compression one and add a down draft stromberg 48 card and get almost the same performance as the 1933 v8 from the model B 1933 4 cylinder engine.
 
Hi there, you can add the need for the V8 torque tube and the change of starter motor operation from pull start on the dash to foot start.
I have a 33 B and went down your line of thought regarding the V8 conversion and decided to keep the B, it is original to the car and a very well developed reliable motor. It also saved me tracking down all those parts. I found the B very affordable to recondition, and will modify it over time, there are lots of interesting speed goodies out there.
Just my thoughts, Good luck with your project.
 
mvee33 said:
Hi there, you can add the need for the V8 torque tube and the change of starter motor operation from pull start on the dash to foot start.
I have a 33 B and went down your line of thought regarding the V8 conversion and decided to keep the B, it is original to the car and a very well developed reliable motor. It also saved me tracking down all those parts. I found the B very affordable to recondition, and will modify it over time, there are lots of interesting speed goodies out there.
Just my thoughts, Good luck with your project.
Click to expand...

True. if seems that the early v8's had some problems, perhaps that is why most 33, 34 fords have later v8 motors. The model B engine which was an advanced model A engine had refinements desigened in. Many people back then choise the more proven Model B engine 4 cylinder over the newly developed v8. And with With a downdraft carb and a 6.1 to 1 head it can almost achieve the 1933 v8 performance numbers and is a more reliable and proven engine than the early v8 with DL single barrel Carb.
Don't get me wrong I love the early v8's if I could only find one, but the tired and true 4 cylinder ford has many good points too. The 4 cylinder is a nice historical link between the roaring twenties and the early thirties.
 
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I've been trying this for a while as well. So far, the driveshaft is I believe 1.5" longer as well as the torque tube. I have both 4-cylinder and V-8 torque tubes. The radius rods are the same. The cross members are the same. The transmission will probably need to be changed as the 4-cylinder transmission has a different bell housing. You'll need the front motor brackets if using a 1932-1936 engine. You'll probably want the anti-chatter rods as well. The transmission mount will probably need to be changed. The gas pedal is different and I don't know if it can be modified or otherwise it needs to be swapped out with a V-8 one. Other than the radiator and engine that is mostly it. I believe the rear end internally is different, it can be used but I don't know if it is weaker or what can be done.
 
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