Harvey Flywheel 292 Y Block Questions

[ken1939]

I purchased a T10, Car Bellhousing and a Harvey Flywheel off a running 292 Y Block. I have such an engine I want to put it on for an upcoming project. But wanted to know more about the Harvey Flywheel. Other than being aluminum, I was under the impression these were for race applications. Is this true? Any suggestions for a good clutch and pressure plate to use this flywheel with in conjunction with the T10. If its not streetable, any good suggestions for a Flywheel, Pressure plate and Clutch so I can use the T10 on my 292.

 

[Fordors]

Your flywheel was forged by Harvey Aluminum for Paul Schiefer, Schiefer built clutches and flywheels for many years. He was an early hot rodder and lakes racer. Harvey had a history of working with speed equipment manufacturers and did much with Mickey Thompson, particularly with his Indy car programs. Being in So Cal I'm sure they also did forgings and sold sheet goods, etc. to the aircraft industry.

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Your 'wheel appears to be in decent shape, the bronze facing looks very good. I think it is probably drilled for an 11" clutch, is that right? Some will tell you the bronze facing is junk, it won't hold up, but most ruined flywheels of any type are caused by abuse or just plain ignorance. I don't have an aluminum flywheel, but do run a 15# nodular iron L-88 style one with a 10 1/2" diaphragm, in a 2700 coupe with a 2.54 first gear T-10, 3.36 gear and 31" tires. From my experience it will not break the tires loose if I mat the throttle because it does not have the stored energy of a heavy 'wheel but it revs faster than any other SBC I've ever had. The light flywheel works good for me, what kind of combination do you have in mind?

 

[ken1939]

292 Y block with the T10 in a 32 Ford Phaeton for a build this winter. Rear will probably be a 9 or 8.8. If the money is there I would go with a quick change, but I like drive ability.

What should I measure for the clutch size, the bronze face? I would imagine its no bigger than a 11, but i have seen 12s in these years. The standard replacements I have seen are 10 1/2s.

On one hand I have it and if its good I would prefer to save $300 for a flywheel and use it. Just trying to consider the down the road usage. Not a race car, just a driver.

 

[Fordors]

To measure you want the center to center for two bolts. A 10 or 10 1/2 will be 3 1/8", 11 will be 3 3/8" C-C. A larger diameter clutch will lessen the effect of the light flywheel since the bigger clutch assembly will increase rotating mass.

 

[Ole Don]

Most Ford clutch covers in those yeas were Long type, with the fly weights to increase pressure at high RPMs. A differnt style should allow high RPM shifts easier and faster. If I had it to do over, I would use a 10 1/2 inch diaphragm clutch. I had an aluminum flywheel on a nail head years ago. It was very easy to kill the engine starting out uphill.

 

[miker98038]

I have an aluminum flywheel in my 32 cabriolet. 3.55 rear, 29" tire, 2.95 first gear. Drives fine. I'm in process of putting an alum flywheel in my bird also. As Ole Don says, they don't light the fires as easily, but they rev really well.

 

[ken1939]

One thing I forgot to consider, do I have to do anything to the crank for the change over from Automatic to Manual?

 

[ken1939]

I have an aluminum flywheel in my 32 cabriolet. 3.55 rear, 29" tire, 2.95 first gear. Drives fine. I'm in process of putting an alum flywheel in my bird also. As Ole Don says, they don't light the fires as easily, but they rev really well.

What pressure plate and clutch did you use?

 

[rick55]

You will need a pilot bearing installed in the end of the crank. I always use sealed ball bearings though the stock bearing is a phosphor bronze bush. Whatever you use just lightly grease the end of the gearbox input shaft that slips into the bush.

 

[Ole Don]

One thing I forgot to consider, do I have to do anything to the crank for the change over from Automatic to Manual?

Use very good bolts, and make sure the bolts go all the way through but not so far as to hit the back of the block. And do NOT use an impact to tighten them. Block the crank from turning in front and use a snap torque wrench to tighten the bolts very lightly oiled to 85 to 90 Ft. Lbs. I know, easier said than done.