Starter solinoid for 8BA

banjoQ

Senior Member
I have a 36' pickup with an 8BA that I resurrected a year and half ago. Electrical problems are cropping up, although not serious ones. After driving for a year, finding out the generator is not producing enough current to keep the battery charged with headlights in use. I plan to rebuild gen. soon. Also getting trouble from starter solinoid. This is the original from 51' or so and I would like to replace. Are U.S. made solinoids available, and if so- where can they be found. I have found them in the various online catalogs, but no one is stating point of manufacture. Trying to avoid the offshore products if possible. One thing I have learned from reading the forum is that there are a lot of parts produced in China. Any tips would be appreciated.
 
I did some research a month ago and went with Cole Hersee. Was looking for a quality solenoid that had the look I wanted. I have looked everywhere on the solenoid I bought and can not find a place of manufacture.
 

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I like the looks of the Cole Hersee units. Does a guy want a continuous duty or an intermittant duty solenoid? This would be on an 8BA with and 12V external resistor coil.

Thanks,

Neal
 
For a starter it would be intermittent duty. The continuous duty are mostly for golf cart type of applications. For an external resistor coil you need the two smaller terminals, one is for the starter connection and the other one applies 12v to the coil during start. Also need to pay attention to the way your starter is wired. If it is wired through the key with a spring loaded start position, that is one type. If it uses a starter button, need to figure out how it is wired. The original Ford starter button wiring with (+) ground was a ground source for the starter relay. Some of the later trucks used a starter button that placed (+) on the starter relay. The ground type are normally chrome finished and the positive type are black plastic. I can look up a starter solenoid part number for you if I'm sure how your car is wired.
 
Had a similar problem with my8BA powered 41 pickup. Bought a heavy duty Solenoid (golf cart type). No change.. Then determined the problem was the Chinese ignition switch. Installed an American made (auto rewire) switch, no problem since.
 
For a starter it would be intermittent duty. The continuous duty are mostly for golf cart type of applications. For an external resistor coil you need the two smaller terminals, one is for the starter connection and the other one applies 12v to the coil during start. Also need to pay attention to the way your starter is wired. If it is wired through the key with a spring loaded start position, that is one type. If it uses a starter button, need to figure out how it is wired. The original Ford starter button wiring with (+) ground was a ground source for the starter relay. Some of the later trucks used a starter button that placed (+) on the starter relay. The ground type are normally chrome finished and the positive type are black plastic. I can look up a starter solenoid part number for you if I'm sure how your car is wired.

Thanks for the explanation on the intermittent vs continuous, that makes perfect sense. The car is not wired yet, but plan to use an ignition switch with the spring loaded start position.

Thanks,

Neal
 
I bought one at the Rhinebeck swap meet, back in May. The guy selling all types of electrical stuff said it was American made by Standard Motor Products. Installed it and it's of good quality. I have his card if you're interested.
 
24103 12V Grounded Intermittent Duty SPST Solenoid. Not sure who is the lowest priced, but Amazon has them for around $35.
 
Thanks for the input guys. - Lawson, I took my solenoid off and tried to see how it might come apart. Mine is a steel unit with three poles, looks like the unit on the left in photo posted by JSeery. Appears to be pressed together on the button side. Are these the ones you are talking about? I suppose it can be pried apart, hate to experiment without knowing. Right now the thing works most of the time, I park on a hill just in case. I would like to try to fix this one if possible, otherwise I can begin the search for a Cole Hersee. Anyone know of a vendor?
 
Banjo, is yours wired with the push starter button? If you know the part number you can get them almost any place that sells electronics online. But, it is not like looking up a year and model, need to know how it is wired to get the correct arrangement and properties.
 
Thanks for the input guys. - Lawson, I took my solenoid off and tried to see how it might come apart. Mine is a steel unit with three poles, looks like the unit on the left in photo posted by JSeery. Appears to be pressed together on the button side. Are these the ones you are talking about? I suppose it can be pried apart, hate to experiment without knowing. Right now the thing works most of the time, I park on a hill just in case. I would like to try to fix this one if possible, otherwise I can begin the search for a Cole Hersee. Anyone know of a vendor?

Sorry, being of advanced years is not working out well for me. I was obviously thinking of 35-36 STARTER button.
 
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J- Yes, I have a starter button in the dash. I am still using the 6 volt system. This a three pole unit. As you are looking at it, the left pole goes to the starter, center pole has a 10 ga. wire from harness and right pole has neg. batt. cable and a heavier wire from the harness. Just had it out and cleaned up all connections.Started right up after. Did not notice any part# on it. Will have to look again. Thanks
 
The only Cole Hersee Relay I can find is the #24060. It has the correct arrangement but is rated 12V. Not sure that would make any difference, would have to check with them. You need a relay (like this one) that is Intermittent, Insulated and has the power source connected to the connector that goes to the push button. The button applies a ground to the coil in the relay and the power comes from the connection going to the battery. Don't think it matters which way the car is wired positive or negative ground (the coil shouldn't care which way the electrons are flowing) but need to verify that also.
 

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BanjoQ, do you have a two or three brush generator?
If it's a three brush maybe you just need to adjust the third brush.

Bob
 
Bob C- It's a two brush, but I am pretty sure it's tired. It has been on the motor since the 50's. This truck sat in a garage for fifty years before I brought it out. During the process of getting it running and on the road, the generator was working OK. But now I have been driving it for a year or so and noticed the output was too low when running the lights. Ammeter is reading two clicks above center currently, it used to be in the middle after warmup. Although the batt. is OK, it's not getting a full charge. Rebuild for the gen. is in the future. I will check into the 6v-12v solenoid issue. C&G has them, but I am not sure who makes them. Thanks to all of you who shared your thoughts.
 
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