Ignition switch solved -- sort of

[denver9]

As a lot of you know, I was looking for a 3 position switch that would fit in the confines of a model A instrument panel. some the suppliers offered one, but it was in the fifty dollar range which seemed a bit steep to me. I finally found a switch from Norcap Sales and Service in the $15 range. More my speed. The body of the switch is small enough but the shank that fits through the panel is a bit long. I ended up tossing the jam nut to allow the switch body to butt against the panel. The switch has a built in anti-rotational key that I utilized by filing a notch in the panel to accept the key. To solve the long shank I used a 3/4 inch shaft collar on the outside of the panel. The finish ring (escutcheon?) tightens down against the collar to finish the assembly. End product doesn't look too bad. I then installed a terminal strip on the firewall which is powered by a wire from the Accessory terminal of the switch. So far only the directional switch is connected to the strip but have six other terminals for expansion (probably never use). I will attempt to attach a couple of pictures.

 

[Brian SATX]

Thanks for the update.

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

So, Denver9,
It's apparent that you have your switch hooked up as a "HOT" switch. That's a common change over. It's easy to do, if you study/understand the wiring diagram. The change over has been discussed in the past. End result is that the switch supplies current TO the coil, instead of merely breaking & making the current from the coil to the distributor. ----Bill W.
(NOTE! This "HOT" switch changeover can NOT be done, if you have an original type "POPOUT" switch!!! It can only be done with simple, 2 or 3 terminal switches!)

 

[Mitch//pa]

So, Denver9,
It's apparent that you have your switch hooked up as a "HOT" switch. That's a common change over. It's easy to do, if you study/understand the wiring diagram. The change over has been discussed in the past. End result is that the switch supplies current TO the coil, instead of merely breaking & making the current from the coil to the distributor. ----Bill W.
(NOTE! This "HOT" switch changeover can NOT be done, if you have an original type "POPOUT" switch!!! It can only be done with simple, 2 or 3 terminal switches!)

right on DAD

 

[denver9]

My Model A had already been switched over to a conventional switch. The main thrust of my effort was to gain an "accessory" terminal for such items as the turn signal. I was forever forgetting to turn it off and leaving the car with the turn signals blinking. When I shut it down for the night or longer, I turn off the master kill switch which solves the problem. I have never had a car with the original "pop-out" switch so never knew the facts that Bill wrote about, so I learned something new. thanks Bill

 

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

With a "hot" switch setup, it's a good idea to hook up your dash light to it, so you don't ever forget to turn it OFF! It'll run yo' battery to DAID, just overnight! (Just ONE of Chief's tricks! He also wired his ammeter BACKWARDS, so he had an excuse for NOT havin' to take his CHEEP neighbor to town, just to buy BROWN MULE CHEWING TOBACCO!) On Minerva, wih a "hot" switch setup, I just used the hot terminal on the coil for a quick, easy source for "switched" accessories.---Bill W.

 

[denver9]

Just recently replaced my dash light. The new unit came with a short, armored cable with a terminal already attached for hooking to the ignition switch. I hooked mine to the accessory terminal. FYI: the instructions received with my FSI electronic ignition said not to hook anything else to the coil POS. terminal except the ignition wire from the switch, and the distributor. They claim that it sometimes causes the electronic ignition to misfire.
A friend of mine uses the junction box cover screws as a hot source for accessories. (Not a good, reliable connection in my opinion)

 

[Lowell Fast]

Does anyone have photos and techniques of disassembling a pop out ignition switch?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

Does anyone have photos and techniques of disassembling a pop out ignition switch?

I would start a new thread and list which style speedometer you have. The round speedometer has a popout switch with a removable rear cover, and I have some pictures of the one I restored.

 

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

So, Denver9,
It's apparent that you have your switch hooked up as a "HOT" switch. That's a common change over. It's easy to do, if you study/understand the wiring diagram. The change over has been discussed in the past. End result is that the switch supplies current TO the coil, instead of merely breaking & making the current from the coil to the distributor. ----Bill W.
(NOTE! This "HOT" switch changeover can NOT be done, if you have an original type "POPOUT" switch!!! It can only be done with simple, 2 or 3 terminal switches!)

Well, Bill(and Mitch) I'm going to make you think. I've been running a pop out switch with an electronic ignition for 26,000 miles. How??
The switch pops in and out too.