1932 4 cylinder muffler??

jim1932

jim1932

Well-known member
Are these no longer being reproduced? Everyone is out of stock. Can I use like a smittys with my stock exhaust pipes? Or would I need to re do the back pipe?

Anyone have a standard midas or NAPA muffle number that fits?

Also, hate to lose a brand new muffler, can this be closed and welded up?
 

Attachments

  • muffler boom.jpg
    muffler boom.jpg
    127.2 KB · Views: 99
jerseyboy said:
Jim,

Check out this vendor as mentioned on the Model A/B Ford Garage.

http://www.amuffler.com/
Click to expand...

I was curious so I checked them out. They make an excellent muffler for a Model A but not the Model B. I know from experience that you cannot use a Model A muffler in a Model B with mechanical brakes (it hits the brake rods). I assume you can use one with hydraulic brakes. The sound from a Model A muffler is unique (the Model B is different different). Aires muffler (the link) will sell the end caps (you need 2 front caps since the Model A muffler is different). They also have a set of drawings for the Model B muffler. Now all you need is to find someone to build the rest of the muffler. Let me know if you find that person to build the muffler.

Charlie Stephens
 
Any muffler will fit in there. Foreign, for 4 cyl sound. Ought to be able to match something up at a muffler shop. Unless you're looking for originality?
Once ran an Olds thru 6 cyl chev mufflers, diff sound. FWIW
Paul in CT
 
1931 flamingo said:
Any muffler will fit in there. Foreign, for 4 cyl sound. Ought to be able to match something up at a muffler shop. Unless you're looking for originality?
Once ran an Olds thru 6 cyl chev mufflers, diff sound. FWIW
Paul in CT
Click to expand...

Jim,

Paul has a good point, how original do you want it to look and sound?

Charlie Stephens
 
Pete is close to what I am looking for... If I have diameter in and out an length, seems most shops could find a fit? Not looking for show, just functional
 
OK- Go to Rock Auto. Top of first page, click on Tools & Universal Parts. Click on Exhaust. Then click on Muffler. Pick your size inlet and it will give you a whole bunch of lengths and configurations available. Some of them are dirt cheap!
 
Letting off the gas with the spark retarded will do it nearly every time! Get yourself a straght thru muffler till things get straightened out.
 
Jim,

As Charlie has stated, it's not just the size of the inlet and outlet pipes that counts, it's also essential that they be oriented correctly unless the muffler is of the straight through type (like the original). If the inlet and outlet pipes are offset, when viewed from the rear the inlet pipe should be in the six o'clock position and the outlet pipe should be in the two o'clock position. Otherwise, the muffler will end up hitting either the right rear brake rod or the inside bottom edge of the chassis frame.
 
I just ordered this one. I will let you know how it works.

Brand:Walker Exhaust
Manufacturer's Part Number:22047
Part Type:Mufflers
Product Line:Walker Tractor Mufflers

UPC:086387220477
Case Shape:Round
Inlet Diameter (in):2.000 in.
Inlet Quantity:One
Inlet Location:Center
Outlet Diameter (in):1.750 in.
Outlet Quantity:One
Outlet Location:Center
Internal Construction:Straight-through baffled
Muffler Material:Steel
Muffler Finish:Aluminized
Case Length (in):15.000 in.
Case Outside Diameter (in):3.250 in.
Overall Length (in):17.250 in.
 
I just made my exhaust on my '32 4-banger ( highly modified with Riley OHV conversion ). Got tired of Smithy's mufflers, much to long for so many of our applications. Got the Brockman mufflers, great service and sent me exactly what I wanted for this car and the '35. It's a steel pack, 12" long body with 19" overall length which still can be shortened. Fired it up, and whooooah...what a sound...actually, what muffler?? I love it. For reference, I used 2 1/4" SS pipes and I never use u-bolt type clamps. I slit the muffler with a hacksaw at 3 locations and tighten with an industrial SS clamp. Works perfect. If I have to remove the pipes or muffler, it will not give me the hassle of trying to separate the pipe/muffler.
 

Attachments

  • 004fghj.jpg
    004fghj.jpg
    60.1 KB · Views: 63
  • 006fbi.jpg
    006fbi.jpg
    96.1 KB · Views: 51
  • 016frt.jpg
    016frt.jpg
    83.3 KB · Views: 63
If I was starting from scratch I would go a similar route, but I have brand new pipes throughout so I wanted to use them if I could.
 
Robert:
Industrial SS clamp? Not a worm gear radiator hose clamp, is it? Otherwise, got a picture of the clamp?
 
Last edited:
The clamps I use are not the flimsy radiator type. They are too weak. The company name on the clamp is Mikalor..google it. They are 3/4" wide, the band is a thick gauge....035"...and the screw is a fine thread. They come in various diameters for a perfect fit...about $4.00 each. I strongly recommend them...will not use anything else. As I mentioned before, the won't deform the muffler or pipe, and can be removed without a hitch. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • Mikalor.jpg
    Mikalor.jpg
    46.2 KB · Views: 11
Robert Dip said:
I just made my exhaust on my '32 4-banger ( highly modified with Riley OHV conversion ). Got tired of Smithy's mufflers, much to long for so many of our applications. Got the Brockman mufflers, great service and sent me exactly what I wanted for this car and the '35. It's a steel pack, 12" long body with 19" overall length which still can be shortened. Fired it up, and whooooah...what a sound...actually, what muffler?? I love it. For reference, I used 2 1/4" SS pipes and I never use u-bolt type clamps. I slit the muffler with a hacksaw at 3 locations and tighten with an industrial SS clamp. Works perfect. If I have to remove the pipes or muffler, it will not give me the hassle of trying to separate the pipe/muffler.
Click to expand...

Very nice undercarriage
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top