Remove pedal bushings

ped58

Senior Member
What is the best way to remove the old bushings from the brake and clutch
pedal arms. thanks
 

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Best is to drive them out with a proper size arbor. Without that, use a hacksaw blade carefully to almost cut through from the inside out, then use an awl, and drive it in between the bushing and the pedal bore. The cut section will crack, and you can then just push it through.
 
Best is to drive them out with a proper size arbor. Without that, use a hacksaw blade carefully to almost cut through from the inside out, then use an awl, and drive it in between the bushing and the pedal bore. The cut section will crack, and you can then just push it through.

ditto
 
I would echo what the others have said. Use and appropriate sized bushing driver or cut them with a hacksaw blade and pick/peel them out. Mine were so worn they pretty much fell out on their own. :o
 
If you have a friend with a lathe have him make you a pusher-inner, pusher-outer tool from some round stock. I have one that I use to drive old bushings out of the pedals and the bell housing, and to drive in the new ones in both.

I wore one out after years of use and a friend and colleague in the Orange County Model A Club, Don Miller, made me a new one and had it hardened. It has been in service a number of years now and shows no sign of wear. Don Miller passed away a few years ago and every time I go to use the tool I am reminded of what a fine fellow he was.

Tom Endy
 
If you don't use the right arbor, you can easily damage the bushing. When I put new ones on my big 29 AA, I drilled and tapped 1/4 X 28 and installed 2 grease fittings. I had some thin shims and placed 1 between the 2 peddles and 1 next to the ******, there is no side play to lose grease.
carry on nick c
 
On some thin bushings I've had to make an outer sleeve to contain the bushing as it's driven into place, otherwise, as Nick said, it can be easily destroyed.
 
I just removed and installed new bushing on both the brake and clutch pedals arms. I removed them using the hacksaw and awl method noted above and it worked well. I ran a few passes with a brake hone in the opening before installing the new bushings to remove any burrs. Then pressed in the bushings using a bushing driver (from an inexpensive driver set) and a bench vice. They were initially tight on the new shaft so a few passes with a brake hone, some grease and the slid right on with light pressure. I also replaced the shaft in the bell housing, while in the car, by cutting off the head of the retaining pin and driving the pin down into the bell housing. I put a rag behind it so it wouldn't get lost down in the bottom of the housing (which it did anyway and I had to use a magnetic tool to pull it out). The clutch shaft had no bushing (see previous post) on the drivers side of the bell housing and I was able to drive in a new bushing using the clutch arm, with pin removed, as the driver. It went amazingly well. One final suggestion, found here on the forum, was to put a taper on the leading edge of the bushing which was done with bench grinder.
 
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On some thin bushings I've had to make an outer sleeve to contain the bushing as it's driven into place, otherwise, as Nick said, it can be easily destroyed.

I made a set of the outer sleeves as Tom suggested. I also made a bushing arbor to push the bushing in. I have no problem replacing these bushings and I have used these tools to help many in our club.

As others have suggested, I drill, tap and install grease fittings in the peddles that don't have them. Keep them greased and they won't wear out for many years. Don/WI
 
Hack saw or use a sharp punch. Bench vice to get them back in. The voice of the old guy that knows nothing about this type of thing but it did work for him.
 
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