Head / Stud Removal

The head is off with the use of Gord's head remover. I will post some pics. I had to buy longer bolts to lift the head off as my head got stuck about halfway off.

The tally so far on the studs is 3 off clean and one broken.... I think the one that broke had some issues. I did not put much torque on it when it broke... I can't even say snapped because the breakage was so subtle. Off to research drilling out studs and thread repair.
 
I am assuming the studs are 7/16 ? As I am not worried about saving the threads can I use the 7/16 - 20 Collet? Tghanks for the help... would like to get this ordered today!!
 
Bill O'Brien said:
For the re-installation, what is the proper height for the studs off of the top of the block??

Should I put some RTV or Loctite on the threads of the studs??

Thanks gents!!
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I dip the threads in Moroso brand Ceramic Engine Seal. It is made for sealing cracks in a block and it seals threads well.

If you break a stud off and don't have enough sticking out to grab on to have a glob of heliarc welded onto the end of the stud. All ya need is enough to grab with a pipe wrench or vise grips. The heat from the heliarc will also help loosen the stud. Wait till it is cool before trying to remove it.
 
James Rogers said:
Joe, 7/16-14 is correct for the block threads.
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James, I understood from Bill's questions that he wants to use the Snap-On collet stud remover, which fits over the end of the stud, on the remaining studs. If that's correct, he wants a collet for 7/16"-20.

I can't see any way to use the Snap-On tool on a broken stud.

Joe
 
I was told long ago to shock the Stud with 3 or 4 blows with a 3Lbs. Hammer. Then spray with Penetrating Oil, let sit a couple of Hours, Shock again with Hammer. Use a Pipe Wrench to remove. If you break one, Weld the Washer and Nut, let it cool down, as Described before hand and remove it. Has always worked for Me.
 
Also don't forget to try the wax method for stud removal.

If it doesn't seem like the stud will come out fairly easily, or if it's badly rust pitted, then heat the stud to a dull red heat, let it cool some, then hold wax against the stud so it wicks it's way down into the threads. I haven't tried this method yet, but since hearing about it about 5 years ago, I've heard several good reports of it's success.
 
Some pics of Gord's Head Puller
 

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JoeWay said:
James, I understood from Bill's questions that he wants to use the Snap-On collet stud remover, which fits over the end of the stud, on the remaining studs. If that's correct, he wants a collet for 7/16"-20.

I can't see any way to use the Snap-On tool on a broken stud.

Joe
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Sorry, you are correct. I misunderstood the question. I'm with you on the broken stud. Nothing will work here except the welding method or a mill/drill.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for any confusion... the Snap-On stud remover will be used for the remaining studs still in the block.

I will be drilling out and re-tapping the broken stud.
 
Hey Bill I am trying to understand this collet style remover and how it works. I use the Sears stud remover which is an eccentric knurled that you use with a 1/2" drive socket that is above the eccentric which is above the top of the studs so you can turn the stud 360 degrees swing the eccentric to the right it tightend the stud flip it over to the left and it loosens the stud I think you can still by then at Sears in the tools dept. I cannot send a photo sorry Many Thanks for the photos Gord. B
Tool should be 10-12 dollars
 
The Sears style stud remover is too bulky to fit in some places that studs need to be removed, plus it mars the stud, and worst, it puts the force off center, so it's more likely to snap a very stuck or rust pitted stud.

The Snap-On collet style is like a deep nut that is in 4 or 6 pieces with a taper on the outside. As you tighten the outer sleeve over the collet all the threads are squeezed into the stud threads really tight. This gives a lot of gripping surface and also applies the twisting force straight in line with the stud. This is by far the best way to remove a stuck stud, but it's also by far the most costly tool for removing studs.
 
Snap-On collets also come in a serrated variety for removing dowel pins and broken
studs(above the deck), look at the catalog for more.

Dudley
 
The Snap On stud remover is fantastic!!! All of the studs except one of the ones I removed with the cam type remover came out without issue. I would not waste my money on a cam type remover.

If you want to make the job of removing the studs an easy experience invest in the Snap On stud remover!
 
I know I can measure the head and the nut to determine the stud height but does anyone have these measurements to save me some time??? It would be for the Snyders 5.5 head.

Thanks!!!
 
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