Lifting a Coupe Body - best step by step proceedure?

steve hackel

steve hackel

Senior Member
Hello; I need to pull the body from my frame on my 1930 Coupe in order to validate the frame number regarding a new title. I have both Les Andrews restoration books, but there is nothing specific or step by step instructions.
I know this is not rocket science, but I would like to make it as easy as possible and I am sure that I will forget something in the process. Is there anything on the internet that has all the pit-falls listed for me to watch out for? Thanks :rolleyes:
 
just hope the frame number matches the title after you remove it......or your in for a whole different kind of world of crap
honestly take out the bolts
take out the steering
disconnect the wiring from the engine
loosen the radiator and remove the hood
easy piesie
tk
 
kelley's restoration said:
just hope the frame number matches the title after you remove it......or your in for a whole different kind of world of crap
honestly take out the bolts
take out the steering
disconnect the wiring from the engine
loosen the radiator and remove the hood
easy piesie
tk
Click to expand...

What are you going to do about the rear fender attached to the body aprons and running Boards? What about rear bumper brackets?? What about the fuel/vacuum lines, choke rod, & speedo cable??? :p I know yu knew that, ...jus' messin' with you!! :o

Personally, I would disconnect the steering column at the tank but leave it intact, remove the floor boards, and only remove the clutch pedal. Then place two timbers under the body and lift upwards about 12". Sometimes you can just as easily "tilt" the body towards the right side of the chassis just using one or two bolts to pivot off of.
 
I built four pillars of cement block in each corner of the body (tudor) just clearing the fenders and just a couple of inches higher than the body as it rests on frame. Removed all the body bolts, shift tower, steering column, speedometer cable etc. Using a small bottle jack mounted on another pillar of cement blocks under the firewall I jacked up the front of the body. When it was high enough I pushed a long piece of angle iron under the front of the body and rested the angle iron on the two front pillars of cement blocks then lowered the body on to the angle iron. Used the same process in the back of the body. Once the body was off the frame and secure I was then able to lift the body higher using 1 or more blocks in each corner. What is nice about this setup is that you can still keep the frame with all the running gear under the body and roll it out as needed, good for limited space. I was able to do the body lift alone and did not find it at all difficult.
 
Mine had the body bolts removed and wiring was unhooked, and steering column clamp was removed. The fenders were also off, and I was able to raise it enough to move the splash apron and see the number.
 
Here is how we put my huckster body on my frame. Granted did not have steering column on yet, no wiring etc but it may give you some idea of "tools" that could be used. But some of the comments mentioned above may be the way to go with a coupe body because of the weight. The huckster body weighed around 900 lbs and was a bit heavy. BTW the only thing the dog did was get in the way.
 

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They actually require that you do that in Illinois? Isn't there some sane person at the DMV you can talk to who understands something about antique motor vehicles? After you go through all this, there's no guarantee you'll be able to read the number--unless you restored the car and you already know it's legible.
 
No need to take the body completely off the frame. Just jack the body up off the frame rails 6 inches to see the serial number.Of course you will have to unfasten all the things mentioned above by Brent.
 
First you have to assume that the number is still legible.
Here is how I did mine.
Assuming the number is readable, all you need to do is loosen the body bolts enough to raise the body 1 inch. Be sure to block it well. Insert a piece of paper
over the number and rub HARD with a dirty finger. The number showed up very readable.
I didn't unhook anything, just loosened the body bolts.
Don't forget to pull your safety blocks and tighten the bolts when done.
 
Thanks for all the information...... I bought this car a while back and waited until I had everything ready. I applied for the title and the state wanted to look at the car; I already knew that the block had been changed, but I had the old "JUNK" block in the trunk and a reproduction body I.D. tag on the firewall and the old title in hand. The guy at the DMV said that the new I.D. tag looked out of place (new!) on the old firewall and the correct junk but matching block needed to be in the engine compartment and not the trunk. I plan on doing all the looking by myself and not get anyone else involved - if the # matches, then great - if not, then myself & my son are personally going to deliver it back to the west coast and place it in the sellers driveway, and then proceed to the local police department with paperwork in hand......
 
WA state patrol wanted me to do that back in the late 70's when I wanted to obtain a WA title. Had had the car since 59 with a CA title. I went to the supervisor and he said I did not need to do it. The officer at the inspection station was not very happy that I went over his head but it sure saved me a lot of hassle. Have never had the body off my 29 coupe!
 
my frame numbers were no readable
It had a b motor in it so no numbers
I had the original title...not valid since the frame had no numbers to back it up
now its titled as a street rod lol
peoples republic of Illinois
tk
 
I moved to Arizona in 1992 with my 31 Tudor from NY. The inspector just looked at the engine and matched the title from NY. Piece of cake. Had a real issue with a 1950 Caddy that was sold from an estate of a deceased gentleman. I just went to Farmers insurance and obtained a bonded title. for a couple of hundred bucks. Is that option not open to you guys? Sure a lot simpler. Ron
 
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