Model A & B Valves, Guides, and Retainers

A BONED

A BONED

Member
I have the original type tulip tipped valves in my model B banger, with the split type valve guides. The valve guides are very badly worn the valves rock around in the guides. I would like to replace all the valves, guides, and retainer using the newer design one piece guides and stainless steel valves. My question is if I do this on my little banger would I need to re-cut the valve seats for the new valves? If I do need to re-cut the seats can you buy a cutter to use at home, or does this need to be done by a machinist? Would I be able to just lap the valves by hand. The valve assemblies I'm thinking of using are listed in the link below, what do you guys think?

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/4581

Chris
 
You will need to cut the seats or have them cut. Even if the seats are in good shape
they will not be centered after you change the guides.
You also should have adjustable lifters as the valves will not be the same length as your
original valves.
It probably isn't worth the expense to buy cutters for yourself. I would find some one
in the area with a system like neway cutters. You can use these by hand as well as with
an electric driver.
I have a set I use to make "house calls" if someone still has the engine in the car.
I also use a set up like the Snyder ones.
 
Chris,
My bet is that since your guides/valve stems are worn so bad that probably the seats aren't wonderful either. I prefer the 1-piece drive in from the top guides from Brattons, but the snyder kit works well too. They just go up from the bottom with no driving from the top as is required with the others. You may want/need to replace the seats and do some seat grinding and fitting of the valves. Unless you have equipment and knowledge of doing that I would let someone who is do the job. You want the valve to seal and seat properly.. and unless you're schooled at that there's a little more to it than just poking in new valves and lapping. Since you're looking at this area of the engine not sure if you know what the rest of it is like, bottom end, pistons/rings/bore.. etc it may be time for a rebuild.
I'm sure others will chime in... but that's my general take.
Larry S
 
Thanks Dodge & Larrys40, makes sense that you would need to re-cut the seats as the new guides will put the existing seat out of round.

Would something like this valve seat cutting set be any good?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALVE-SEAT-...1155008482&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

I want to avoid yanking the mill and taking it to a machine shop, although I will if need be. Does anyone know:

* The size of the existing valves (1.5in?)
* The angle of the valve seat?
* The width of the valve stem?

Thanks,

Chris
 
That set looks like it would work for you, but you'll have to get the pilot for the guide size that you will be installing.
 
If you are using modern valves, you will need an 11/32 or .341 pilot to cut the seats. You might even get by with lapping the valves but that might not work and it is a lot of work if it don't.
 
That valve seat cutter on Flea Bay is made in India and you will have to pay shipping and import duty fees.
 
Mikeinnj said:
That valve seat cutter on Flea Bay is made in India and you will have to pay shipping and import duty fees.
Click to expand...

Besides that, the cutters are carbon steel and you would be lucky if they lasted 2 holes.
Doing the job in the car is very risky. It is doubtful you could get all of the chips and dirt out.
In case you decide to pull the engine and have a shop do it, try and find one with a Serdi valve machine.
 
Pete said:
Besides that, the cutters are carbon steel and you would be lucky if they lasted 2 holes.
Doing the job in the car is very risky. It is doubtful you could get all of the chips and dirt out.
In case you decide to pull the engine and have a shop do it, try and find one with a Serdi valve machine.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys for your help on this. Looks like the banger gets yanked for a trip to the machine shop.

Chris.
 
Do it in the car to keep you going for the season, then pull it later if you want.
They did them in the car in the day and I still do them that way now to keep them going.
You can use a vaccum cleaner to suck everything out as you go.

My 2 cents
 
Make sure that there are no cracks in the block around the seats etc. I understand from a very reliable source that B blocks are not as sturdy as A blocks in that department.

Chet
 
Growley bear said:
Make sure that there are no cracks in the block around the seats etc. I understand from a very reliable source that B blocks are not as sturdy as A blocks in that department.

Chet
Click to expand...

Thanks fellas for your great advice, I have ordered a set of modern type valves, guides, retainers and springs from Snyder. I have put the word out for a suitable valve seat cutter. I've had the head off recently and had a good look for any visible cracks, I could not see any. I will take another good look again. I'll keep you guys posted.

Chris
 
Chris you are going to have to make sure the new guides fit in the hole and is centered so the valve is positioned right. I would put the stainless steel seats put in your block running todays gas.
 
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