1940 Steering Box

[Mr. Will]

I have what I believe is a 1940 steering box that I want to put in my 35' but I don't know how to identify it. The only casting # I see on it is a 10 (see pics) and the pitman arm has a casting # 78-3590-M7. Also when I turn the shaft I can feel the bearing, it is not smooth. I am guessing it has a bad bearing or something else? I figured I would take it apart to inspect. Can anyone give me some advice as to what to look for and the proper setup, figured I would rebuild it. Also I notice on my 35' box it has a collar that bolts onto the top of the box that the column tube clamps to and the 40' box has it cast into the housing. I assume my column tube will clamp on the 40' box?

Thanks Dan

 

[Andy]

It appears earlier than a 40 as it has the light switch set up. It should be 37-39. The tube will clamp up.
They are easy to work on. Remove the pitman arm with a puller. Do not beat on it. remove the top cover and the sector shaft will come out the top. Remove the switch parts and the bottom cover and the shaft will try to come out. The lock coller will hold it from coming all the way out. grind the edges of the screws holding the coller and drive it off. A screwdriver used to spread it some helps. The big bearing cup at the bottom is not available but the rest is.
Check the shaft length. I hope it is the same as you 35. They can be shortened.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

In addition to checking the shaft length compared to your '35, also check to see if the inner hole in the shaft is large enough to accept the rod on your '35 horn light switch. When I have rebuilt these '37-'48 steering boxes to use in my '35's, I have pressed the worm gears off the shafts that were too long or would not work for other reasons, and then pressed the worm onto a '35 shaft, so that all the other '35 column components (column tube, steering wheel, column drop, horn light sw. rod, and locking collar) would all bolt right back in place. Rebuilding that '37-'48 box yourself is not that difficult. I have a good magazine tech article on rebuilding these '37-'48 steering boxes. If you would like a copy, send me a pm with your email address.

 

[FlatheadTed]

The lower bearing race 68 1553 come from Macs 48 mm x 22 wide this maybe wider than you need but could be modified they also show a pre 40 .1553.that maybe the narrow one .

 

[burly]

Andy the screws holding the collar are recessed in my unit and I haven't any luck breaking them loose with a screw driver or small chiesle. Thought about trying to drilling them out?

 

[TagMan]

I believe the "78" prefix on the number cast on your pitman arm would indicate you have a 1937 steering box or at least the arm was first used in 1937.

 

[scooder]

You can drill the screws easy there quite soft. You may need to relocate the coller to match the distance from box to dash mount, and clocking.
Martin.

 

[Mart]

On the one I did recently, the screws came out after a little lick with a grinder where the thread had been peened over.

Mart.

 

[Andy]

Andy the screws holding the collar are recessed in my unit and I haven't any luck breaking them loose with a screw driver or small chiesle. Thought about trying to drilling them out?

I use a Dremmel tool with a small burr or a cut off wheel to grind away the peend over material. I have always been able to reuse the screws.

 

[Mr. Will]

The lower bearing race 68 1553 come from Macs 48 mm x 22 wide this maybe wider than you need but could be modified they also show a pre 40 .1553.that maybe the narrow one .

Thanks for the part #'s I will check it out.

 

[Mr. Will]

In addition to checking the shaft length compared to your '35, also check to see if the inner hole in the shaft is large enough to accept the rod on your '35 horn light switch. When I have rebuilt these '37-'48 steering boxes to use in my '35's, I have pressed the worm gears off the shafts that were too long or would not work for other reasons, and then pressed the worm onto a '35 shaft, so that all the other '35 column components (column tube, steering wheel, column drop, horn light sw. rod, and locking collar) would all bolt right back in place. Rebuilding that '37-'48 box yourself is not that difficult. I have a good magazine tech article on rebuilding these '37-'48 steering boxes. If you would like a copy, send me a pm with your email address.

John, Thanks for this information. This is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Mr. Will]

I believe the "78" prefix on the number cast on your pitman arm would indicate you have a 1937 steering box or at least the arm was first used in 1937.

Thanks That helps to identify the box.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Also, the mounting holes on the box are oriented differently for '37/up. Some will drill/elongate the '35/6 to work, but changing to a '37/40 bracket is cleaner. If you ever get over my way I've got a new one if you want to do it that way.

 

[blucar]

The bolt pattern on the '35-36 frame mount is different than the '37-40. You will need a '37-40 frame mount. You will also need to retain the '35-36 pitman arm. The '37-40 pitman hangs down to low...
I put '40 steering gears in my '36 over 50 years ago, like adding power steering to he car in lieu of the "armstrong" 36 steering..

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

The guys are correct about trying to use a '35-'36 frame mounting bracket by drilling extra holes in various places or elongating existing holes. We tried this when we put a '37 box in a '36 Phaeton and everything we tried would not allow the box/column to be in the correct position. Using a '37-'40 frame mounting bracket works much better. Bob Drake has remade this '37-'40 bracket and sells it for ~ $30/$35. It bolts/rivets right back into the original mounting holes in the frame.

 

[Mr. Will]

The guys are correct about trying to use a '35-'36 frame mounting bracket by drilling extra holes in various places or elongating existing holes. We tried this when we put a '37 box in a '36 Phaeton and everything we tried would not allow the box/column to be in the correct position. Using a '37-'40 frame mounting bracket works much better. Bob Drake has remade this '37-'40 bracket and sells it for ~ $30/$35. It bolts/rivets right back into the original mounting holes in the frame.

I have the original 37' mount that came with the box I was planning on using.

 

[Mr. Will]

Also, the mounting holes on the box are oriented differently for '37/up. Some will drill/elongate the '35/6 to work, but changing to a '37/40 bracket is cleaner. If you ever get over my way I've got a new one if you want to do it that way.

Bob, Its Dan I was going to buy your bracket but found I had the bracket remember.

 

[Wily Kyote]

__________________
John

John, thank you for your generous spirit in allowing others of us to add our names to your offer. Received and readable. Thank you again.