Starter Solenoid

49fordv8f4

Senior Member
I am converting my '49 F4 to 12V. I plan on keeping the stock starter button and ignition switch. Is there a 12v solenoid that will work with the stock starter button? On my previous truck, a '47 COE, I used an original Ford 6V solenoid when I converted it to 12V. I drove it that way for probably 15 years without any problems, but I have read that a 6v solenoid can give problems on 12V. What is everyone out in Ford Barn land using?
Thank You, Mark
 
I went 12V and left the starter as is and it works great. Your words "On my previous truck, a '47 COE, I used an original Ford 6V solenoid when I converted it to 12V. I drove it that way for probably 15 years without any problems, with no issues", so go with it. 12V supply on 6V makes it react twice as fast and all the electricals are more beefy on the 6V motor setup than on a 12V starter. I don't understand it but it is electrical math. I'm sure one of the more scientific theory types will chime in with how the math works.
 
I have read that a 6v solenoid can give problems on 12V. What is everyone out in Ford Barn land using?
Thank You, Mark

And what about all those who have had problems with a 6 volt solenoid while running on 6 volts ? What do they blame that on?
I have been running a 6 volt solenoid on 12 volts for over 20 years.
If I have problems with it, what am I going to replace it with?--
ANOTHER 6 VOLT SOLENOID
 
They make both 6 and 12 volt solenoids. When a 6 volt solenoid fails on 6 volts it's usually the contacts but a solenoid is a coil of fine wire and can have internal connection problems. Using a 6 volt coil on 12 volts isn't good. You can get by with it as long as the engine starts fast when you hit the starter button. The problem is the wire in a 6 volt coil will get almost twice as hot on 12 volts and held on to long will burn the insulation and short it. G.M.
 
I've had 2 6volt solenoids stick with 12 volt. When that happens the starter keeps running and you have jump out, run around, get the hood open, find a wrench, and unhook the batt terminal. I'm to old for that sh--. Use a 12 sol and a 2 pole starter button. Walt
 
Where do you get the two pole starter button? I've used the stock single pole button and use it to ground a relay that then brings power up the starter solenoid. Would be simpler with a two pole button. Do they look same as the stocker?
Martin.
 
I've had 2 6volt solenoids stick with 12 volt. When that happens the starter keeps running and you have jump out, run around, get the hood open, find a wrench, and unhook the batt terminal. I'm to old for that sh--. Use a 12 sol and a 2 pole starter button. Walt

Used to have a '40 conv. (wish I still had it) that the solenoid stuck the same way on 6 volts.
Also had a '38 standard with the same problem. Curious :confused:
 
I've had both 6 and 12 v solenoids stick when used on their correct voltages, especially when the voltagein the battery was low.
 
Where do you get the two pole starter button? I've used the stock single pole button and use it to ground a relay that then brings power up the starter solenoid. Would be simpler with a two pole button. Do they look same as the stocker?
Martin.

12V. solenoid looks like this. http://www.steinertractor.com/ABC13...y?CID=ABC139&gclid=CLOckJDWq74CFW4R7AodKUsAFg
In my car the OEM starter button is not wired. Instead, there is a hidden 12V starter button under the dash.
 

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I like the starter button under the dash idea instead the foot button on the floor. Once in a while my fat foot hits it when clutching, very nasty sound.

As far as the 12V vs 6V starter and solenoid many have used the 6V with a 12V system with no issues for very long periods, in this thread one of the guys has 20 yrs on his and 49fordv8f4 him self indicates he had a '47 truck with same for 15 yrs. I have heard / read about the same # of issues using 6V in 12V car or changing to 12V starter / soleniod. In all cases the guys with the 6V in a 12V car love that it turns ovfer so fast as do I!
 
I have a 6 volt solenoid on my test stand and have a 12 volt battery to spin the engine. It sticks every 3rd or fourth time. I have a little hammer I just tap the solenoid and it "unsticks".
John
 
Pasted from earlier posts:

My Echlin/NAPA guide says that you want an ST 53 for 6V
For what it's worth, ST 56 is the 12V equivalent, actually referencing the 12 V early Ford bus line.
The key in hunting is "insulated base"...device is ungrounded, with the starter button providing the ground. Most common solenoids are grounded base with hot side fed by the starter switch circuit...when you hit the right piece in the Buyer's guide, you will usually find a cross reference to an actual early Ford part number to confirm things.

That one gives you a 12V solenoid that works from early pushbutton.

If you go to one of the many later model 12V ones with grounded base, as on later Fords, the traditional 2 pole replacement switch is on listed for about 1952 Ford trucks...I believe this one fits the original hole, though I have never tried this setup. NAPA lists a replacement for that button as well.
 
Someone mentioned a 12 volt starter solenoid from a ford tractor that was same type as the 6 volt with a single wire ground terminal for the grounding starter button. As far as a 6 volt system V/S a 12 volt I don't see where 12 volts is any improvement. 6 volts with large 6 volt cables and good clean tight connections work perfect. These engines don't have to spin fast to start, when right they start on the first turn of the starter or you can even start them with a crank. G.M.
 
NAPA ST56 is 12v. if you replace the v6 solonoid "in place" with this one you will have to reverse the cables side to side from the battery and to the starter as the energizer coil is wired to the opposit lug from the 6v version. this is a 12v version of the NAPA ST53 6v for 37-50 ford, you will also be able to use the stock dash board single wire starter button. the ST56 dose NOT have a intregal starting button...
 
Thank you for all the replies. I will probably go with the Napa ST56 or the Borg-Warner equivalent. Thanks for the part numbers.
Mark
 
Just for the heck of it, if you drill out the rivets of an old solenoid it's pretty neat to see how they work. Electromagnet and contactor.
 
NAPA ST56 is 12v. if you replace the v6 solonoid "in place" with this one you will have to reverse the cables side to side from the battery and to the starter as the energizer coil is wired to the opposit lug from the 6v version. this is a 12v version of the NAPA ST53 6v for 37-50 ford, you will also be able to use the stock dash board single wire starter button. the ST56 dose NOT have a intregal starting button...

Swapping the big cables won't help, the 12v solenoids are completely different. See below, early (6v) style and later 12v style.

The '52 truck starter button is two pole and will work to send power to the later solenoids.
 

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Not the ST-56...it is an early Ford part, used on 12 V buses, and is clearly marked insulated base, which means ground wire to activate. It is an exact 12V equivalent of the '37-50 Ford solenoids, maybe the only 12 around with insulated base.
The NAPA 6 and 12 early Ford solenoids are made in modern plastic housings, though, and do not look at all right.
 
I went to my local parts house today and bought the Borg Warner equivalent of the Napa ST 56 solenoid. I don't have a Napa close by so I bought the Borg Warner part. The Borg Warner part number is S601. As Bruce said about the ST 56, the S601 is an insulated base and grounds to activate. Also, as donald1950 mentioned, the battery cable must be on the opposite side as the Ford 6V solenoid. The new solenoid is clearly marked battery on one side.
Thanks for all the help and replies, Mark
 
I bought the napa 12v solenoid which I grounded to the firewall with the mounting bolts (ground off paint). The battery cable is mounted on the driver side and the starter cable is mounted on the passenger side. All because the battery is under the passenger seat and not in the stock location. It works.
 

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