Head Nut torque and sequence?

Neil,

Hope all is well with you and that the fire was out of reach for you.

Don't know about torque but the sequence is in the first issue of MAFCA's How To Restore Your Model A vol. 1 if you have it.

Pluck
 
Hi Neal,


Be carefull torquing the 2 water outlet nut's. I torque them together and a few pound's at a time. Like 11 &12 instead of 11&13 as shown.


Also don't use a paper gasket under the outlet..Better to use just some sealer or the original type copper with crush "ring's"


Greg out West
 
unless your one of those who will worry about losing points because you didnt torque as stated in the judging manual, just start in the middle of the head and torque toward the edge and toward each end in a circular pattern at #55, as was stated be very carful about the water goose neck, make sure the goose neck is flat, and check where it bolts to the head, make sure that is very flat also, if necessary level with a file, be carefull dont cause more damage, use no gasket, just a silicone sealer, the goose necks will crack very easily, go slow when tightening them
 
just go in a circle , start about 20# & work up in 10# increments . run & retorque ..... steve
 
I believe Snyder's head torque sequence and torque value came from an article by Murray Fahnestock who wrote technical articles for Ford Dealers during and after the Model T and Model A time period. The article has been reproduced in serveral publications since he wrote it in 1961. The article claims that the sequence provides maximum horsepower based on the theroy that tightening the head bolts distorts the cylinder walls. He also said the bolts should be torqued warm.
 
I just installed a new Snyder's 6.0 head. I used the "start in the middle of the head and torque toward the edge" method mentioned above. I used new studs (chrome moly I think), modern gasket and torqued everything to 65 lbs. It took three "torqueings" to get everything tight
 
Thanks everyone,
I knew there was a chart. But I could not remember where it was.

Yea Pluck, I found it. And, no problem on the fire in Boulder as it was to the West of town and not near our home.

I like Greg's idea on the water outlet studs being tightened together.

And, yes, I knew about the situation on the water outlet gasket and I will most likely use paper.

I don't find anything in the Judging Standards regarding the sequence. But, I now have a chart printed and it is laying on top of the head gasket for when we get to that point.
Thanks again everyone,
Neil
 
lol i know there is no judging standard for head bolt torquing, just a little dig at the 100 point guys in here
 
Hi Neal,


Just read your reply..You said something about using a paper gasket..on the outlet. I hope that was a misprint....I'am sure you know the paper get wet and slip's...Like peanut butter in a sandwich... The way Ford used the outlet as part of torquing the head was a big mistake...



They corrected it latter on the B engine by moving the outlet to the pump itself... You got to think why Ford used a expensive copper gasket with the crush ring's built into it instead of a cheap paper type ?


I use the copper type as original or you can just use some silicone as some guy's do...Also the paper match trick is chancey too



Just don't want you to end up with a cracked outet


Take care, Greg.
 
Neal,

On a stock engine, I use a copper head gasket and a copper water outlet gasket; I make my original torque starting at 30 lbs. and increase in 5 lb. steps; I torque everything at 55 lbs. except the two front outlet studs which I torque at 50 lbs. I also torque the manifold to 50 lbs. I start the engine and run for about 15 minutes, shut down and re-touque engine and exhaust manifold while hot using same 55 lbs. and 50 lbs. After driving the car, as soon as I return home, I re-torque again. The next time I re-torque, I let the engine cool overnight, and check torque with engine cold.

This has worked for me, probable others have just as good results with a different method.

Ron
 
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