Engine Stand

Stretch Cab

Well-known member
I want to hang my flat head on a 1000lb rated engine stand from Harbor Freight. Can anyone help me with what size bolts and threads to use to hang it properly? Do they need to be hardened? Just seems like a lot of weight hanging there and I don't want to crack or break anything with an accident. Thanks!
 
Whatever you do don't mount a pre 8BA engine by the bell-housing as this is a very weak point and the housing will probably break and then all you end up with is a block that is scrap metal.

The genuine Ford stand attaches to the exhaust manifold holes. I suggest that you need to get an adaptor made to mount the motor the same way.
 
Make sure that you hang it from the exhaust manifold bolts, not the bellhousing. It wouldn't hurt to use grade 8 bolts. 3/8 or 7/16 bolts maybe?

Red
 
Use your existing exhaust manifold bolts, and, a stack of washers. As said, use the exhaust bolt holes with an adapter. They are easy to make.
 
I will be posting pictures of the stand we made for my Lincoln V12 engine. It is the same design as the flat head Ford V8.

Frenchy
 
Here is a pic of my homemade one, (if it works) first time for me to post a pic. Ken
 

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Here are a few pictures of my stand for the Lincoln.

Frenchy
 

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19Fordy- is right, I also suggest you use the 2000 lb. collapsable engine stand takes up less room also buy or build the exhaust mount to be safe. Harold central coast Ca.
 
A word of caution. Avoid the 3 legged stands. As you rotate the engine, the weight shifts and I had mine tip over. Fortunately it didn't kill anybody or ruin the block, but it sure was a surprise when it happened. If you have a 3 legged unit, have an extra cross bar welded onto the single leg to prevent it from tipping. 4 point support is better than 3 by a long ways.
 
A word of caution. Avoid the 3 legged stands. As you rotate the engine, the weight shifts and I had mine tip over. Fortunately it didn't kill anybody or ruin the block, but it sure was a surprise when it happened. If you have a 3 legged unit, have an extra cross bar welded onto the single leg to prevent it from tipping. 4 point support is better than 3 by a long ways.

This is indeed a very good thing to point out. I've "been there and almost done" what Chris did - I was lucky as I was able to right it before it went totally over. I'm going to weld on a reinforced plate with a pair of casters to both my 3-legged collapsible stands to avoid the problem in the future.
 
A word of caution. Avoid the 3 legged stands. As you rotate the engine, the weight shifts and I had mine tip over. Fortunately it didn't kill anybody or ruin the block, but it sure was a surprise when it happened. If you have a 3 legged unit, have an extra cross bar welded onto the single leg to prevent it from tipping. 4 point support is better than 3 by a long ways.

I had one almost tip over on with a six cylinder. I made a bracket to mount on the front with casters at either end for a 'four wheeler'.
 
I used a 45* angle. Not all stands will be perfectly flat with that angle. Depends on the angle of your stands tube. A few degrees off will not bother you.
 
My recommendation is to NOT buy from Harbor Freight as their stands are not built to ANSI standards. Buy one built to the ANSI standards and you know that it will hold up. The advise about a 4 wheel one is wisdom.

I made my own flathead adapter with a 3/8 inch thick plate and a piece of round tubing to fit the engine stand head. It looks just like Flathead Jack's in his catalog. I only used the exhaust bolts for the front and rear exhaust ports and it works just fine. Remember there is a "bump" in the block casting near the front so you'll have to trim the corner off of your flat plate.
 
I wouldn't hang anything heavier than my hat on something from China Freight. Well, maybe a box of fortune cookies. But that's it.
 
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