Radiator restoration

Ray P

Ray P

Member
I recently acquired a 1930 radiator that looks to be in fairly good condition at least visually. I took it to a radiator shop to have it checked and to determine what else might need to be done. I was told that all that could be done would be some sort of flushing process - that boiling out a radiator that old would ruin it. I know nothing about radiator maintenance or restoration and would appreciate the view of others on the advice I was given as well as any other advice you may have. Thanks
 
The main thing is the number of tubes that may or may not be blocked. If you have to many blocked then you might as well just recore it. That way you know for a fact that it is good and you won't overheat in the summer.

Mike

p.s. welcome to the barn.
 
I backflushed mine last year by setting it in a large plastic tub and connecting it to a sump pump. You need lots of water flow to flush them and the garden hose won't do much. Also to remove minerals you could block off the lower pipe and fill it with pure white vinegar for a month. I did that to my car as I drove it for a month and I removed a lot of rust and rust flakes last fall.

You don't have much to loose by trying this, and if it fails, then do as Mike said. If it's been stored with the outlets open it may have mouse nests inside. If it seems to be clean inside, then you might just install it and try it as is. Maybe you got lucky and it doesn't need any cleaning or holes soldered.
 
I found a radiator shop that would rod my radiator and fix leaks the old fashioned way. $185, but the radiator is like new. Maybe you could try another shop and see if they'd do that.
 
I've cleaned several with draino (lye) for about 20-30 min. Plug the bottom and stand it up. Wear eye and skin protection. When done back flush with lots of water.
 
I have rodded out a Model A radiator in the past. After seeing what is in the tubes there is no way a flush would clean out the old rust, minerals and grease that binds all the gook together. You have to rod them out very carefully. Since the radiator is plugged up, you have nothing to loose. If the radiator is damaged in the process, then recore it.
1. Plug the lower connection and fill the radiator with water to just below the tank. This is done to prevent melting solder in places you do not want to.
2. Unsolder the two upper brackets on the tank.
3. Using an air gun/air compressor, blow solder away from the upper tank connection to the core using a propane torch. Don't heat things any more than you have to. Work your way around the tank. You may have to use a putty knife and screw driver to keep the tank from reconnecting to the core as the solder cools.
4. Lift off the tank. You will be amazed at how badly the core is plugged up.
5. Make a rodding tool out of a piece of brass brazing wire. Bend the end of the brazing wire into an "L" shape so that the end is under the size of the tubes in the radiator. Spend some time to make the rod end nice and smooth. Be sure it is not too big because you will push the rod all the way to the lower tank and you want the rod to easily get back into the tube on the way back up! I used Gunk engine degreaser as a cleaner and lubricant before I started the rodding process. Let it soak for an hour in all the tubes. Do not force the rod. Gently push it down.

I never grease the rear bushing on my water pump with the pump mounted on the car. Use a lubricated water anti-rust fluid or anti-freeze. Good luck, Ed
 
Thinking about Ron C's suggestion, a Base Alkaline solution probably works better on the oils and grease than an acid will. That is what they use in a hot tank to boil engine blocks..... just a thought.
 
Ray, look up Gary Berg in So. Illinois, he's not all that terribly far from you. Best Model A radiator guy out there he will do you right. if you need a new radiator he has the very best, and can clean or repair your old one. Give him a call good day trip for you.


Www.bergsradiator.com. (small'www I'm using a borrowed IPad don't know why it makes the first w capital letter)
 
Last edited:
ctvpa said:
I think Draino / lye is way too caustic. Plane old white vinegar works great.
Click to expand...

I did the vinegar thing, and it did clean out a lot of crud, but the rodding really took care of the overheating in my coupe because the radiator was too stuffed even with multiple vinegar treatments. My radiator guy almost laughed at how much junk was in there.

Vinegar did get a lot of rust out of my sedan, though.
 
For you folks that want to try and do your own rod & repair, here are some things you can try. My dad started me taking radiators apart as soon as I could safely handle a torch.
1, Lay the radiator down with the tank hanging over the edge of the bench or table. Start with the torch at the top of the side seam, melt the solder and let it run out, work your heat down to the bottom. Do the same on the other side. Then hold the radiator up on it's side and start melting the solder out of the long seams.
2. Now lay it down again and stick a small hammer handle or stick in the filler neck, something that will stick out about a foot and make a good lever. Hold a light pressure down on the handle and start moving your heat back and forth along the two side seams and along the long seam on top. After a short while the tank will pop loose. Turn the radiator over and do the same to the other long seam.
3. When you rod out your radiator it works best if you can run a slow flow of water thru it. Get a PVC fitting that will fit inside the lower radiator hose and, adapt it to attach a garden hose coupling.
4. If you can't find a rod make for radiators you may be able to find some steel banding from a crate that will be narrow enough to fit in the tubes (flat tubes). Round the corners off on one end with some tin snips. File or sand any sharp burrs off.
5. When you rod, use short strokes, pull the rod out and let the water wash the loose stuff out.
6. Get some "acid brushes" and tin both the inside & outside of the tank. Also tin the header plate on the core. Remember you ARE NOT welding, use lower heat and keep it moving back and forth. If you did a good job tinning, the solder will sweat right in.

Ed
 
For flat tube radiators, a long flat oil dipstick should make a good rodding tool.

If it has a curl to it, then put on a pair of gloves and run it through your hands to massage it straight.
 
Vinegar (acid) will clean out rust and scale deposits, while Draino type products (caustic) will clean out grease, sludge, and dirt deposits. I used both (separately) with great success on my old radiator, rinsing thoroughly with water. Neither harmed the metal.
 
I second calling/visiting Gary Berg. Purchased a recored original and it is a thing of beauty. Perfect fit and the car runs nice and cool. He is a very good person to work with. Rather than taking chances with the local raditor shops, cleaing with vinegar, etc I would take to Gary and get an honest opinion/repairs. The time spend shipping it or taking it to Berg's will be much less than the time/frustration of dealing with it yourself.

Trust me - Hunter
 
Ray;

If there is an auto museum, or a restoration shop that specializes in pre '42 cars in your area, check with them to see who they use for radiator repairs.

Bob
 
That radiator has to be rodded out,flushing won't do anything much,if the tubes are blocked it will make your life miserable on your first long drive.I would say to get a recore or buy a new radiator.
 
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