mrtexas
Well-known member
This wasn't for Model As but I don't see why not! Found it on a 63/67 Corvette board
Installing and Starting your new engine.
We have a common interest in the success and longevity of your new engine and would like to share these helpful hints to make your installation trouble free.
Before Start Up:
.
Replace all hoses and clamps.
.
Replace radiator with largest available or have your current radiator rodded out and inspected by a competent radiator shop. Your new engine will make much more power and HEAT than your old engine, increased power demands increased cooling.
Replace radiator cap with a new cap with proper pressure rating.
.
Replace water pump, when your old pump sits out for a week or two while you change the engine the seals dry up and fail on start up.
Replace the Fan Clutch, stay with a Thermal Fan Clutch. Non -Thermal Fan Clutches do not work and waste fuel.
Replace all belts.
Replace all fuel and vacuum lines. Remember all rubber parts fail with age. Appearance is not an issue, age of the part is.
Check or replace all motor mounts
Check all pulleys for straightness, wear and alignment.
Check all wiring for fraying and cracks.
Check all brackets for cracks.
Did you replace the vibration damper? A worn out vibration damper can break a good crankshaft due to poor balance.
Flywheels and flexplates must be checked for tooth wear and cracks. Flywheels are critical on hi-performance engines. Make sure the bolts are not too long and are torqued to proper specs using red Loctite. When using an automatic transmission, be sure you install the torque converter correctly. When installed properly you should have at least 1/2 inch between the converter and flexplate and be able to turn the torque converter freely with the transmission bolted to the engine. Slide the converter forward and bolt it to the flexplate.
Make sure that any new or used flexplates or flywheels are balanced to match your new engine. Some engines are internally balanced and others are externally balanced, get expert help if you are in doubt.
Fuel:
If the vehicle has not run in three (3) months or more the gas tank should be drained and cleaned, all gas lines should be flushed out. OLD GASOLINE turns to varnish when you attempt to run it and will gum up all your new parts.
Many Valve train failures on new engines are a direct result of old fuel. Old fuel will coat the valves, pistons and exhaust guides and ports with a shiny, stinky varnish like material that causes valves to stick, the only fix at this point is to remove and rebuild the heads off your new engine to remove this varnish and repair the damage. Many times the sticky valves hit the pistons and you will also get piston damage. We have seen this many times, it is a real problem, don’t ruin your new engine to save twenty dollars of old gasoline.
Fill carburetor with gasoline to ensure a quick start.
Fuel Injection Vehicles can be primed by turning the ignition key to the on position, hold it there for 3 seconds turn off and repeat until you have pressure in the fuel rail. Injected vehicles have a built in safety switch that shuts off the electric fuel pump 3 seconds after the key is turned to the on position, this is why you have to repeat the procedure till you have pressure.
If your previous engine failed it may have had Carburetor or Fuel Injection problems. Fueling problems either rich or lean can cause total engine failure. Make sure your system is in proper tune so you can enjoy this new engine.
Ignition System:
The ignition system must be in new or very good condition. Old plug wires tend to spark to ground or to other plug wires causing detonation, this is one cause of piston failure.
New Plugs, wires, Distributor Cap, and in older applications Points and Condenser are highly recommended.
Be careful with the routing of the plug wires, poor installation can cause misfire of plug wires.
The Distributor must be checked for proper advance curve and for wear. A worn distributor shaft can cause spark scatter and misfire problems.
Be sure to use correct distributor rotation when installing spark plug wires and setting the firing order. Many start up failures are from the simple mistake of a reversed firing order.
A flat lobe on a camshaft can be caused by excessive failed attempts to start a new engine. Remember: Flat tappet cams need to start promptly and run at 1500 to 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes of engine life to survive.
Engine Oil Coolers:
If you have an engine oil cooler on your vehicle and had a previous engine bearing or engine failure with associated debree in the in oiling system the oil cooler MUST BE REPLACED!!!!
Cleaning and flushing does not get metal out of the old cooler but actual hot engine running conditions with the associated vibration while driving does a very good job and transfers the old damaged engine debree directly to the new engine bearings.” Failure to follow this advice results in cancellation of all warranty and engine bearing failure usually occurs in the first 5,000 miles. All engine rebuilders recognize this issue and endorse this note.
.
PRE-INSTALLATION/PRE-LUBE INSTRUCTIONS:
Fill your new oil filter with oil before installing it. This will save time and effort priming the engine.
.
Fill engine with the proper amount of oil and check before and after priming to be sure it is at the full mark after the oil passages are filled. Non Detergent oils are a thing of the past and are not recommended for modern engine break in. SYNTHETIC OILS and additives are not recommended for break in! If you are running roller lifters a multi viscosity oil is necessary to lubricate the rollers. Roller lifter engines use 5-30 or 10-40 depending on your climate. ( Cold weather needs thinner oil. )
.
Dry starts are the leading cause of premature engine failure. Dry starts occur when you start your engine but the oil pump does not pump oil or the engine is started before oil is placed in the oil pan.
Dry starting an engine can cause damage in as little as 20 seconds.
Prime the engine by actually spinning the oil pump with a proper priming tool or speed handle while slowly turning the engine with a wrench at the front pulley or at the flywheel. ( You will not get pressure if the oil pump is turned in the wrong direction, the pump needs to turn the same direction as the distributor shaft rotation on distributor driven pumps. ) Continue with this procedure until oil pressure is indicated on the oil pressure gauge and oil is present at all the rocker arms. Check for oil leaks at this time!!!!!!!!
If unable to pre-oil the engine properly and mechanical experience prevents you from removing and reinstalling the distributor properly, the following procedures can be used to pre-oil the engine.
a. Remove coil wire and spark plugs, if not already removed.
b. Keeping an eye on the oil pressure gauge, crank the engine with spark plugs out and ignition disabled for 45 seconds!!
Oil pressure should climb after 10-15 seconds. If there is no oil pressure after 15 seconds stop let the starter motor cool and check the gauge, fittings, lines, etc. Repeat the above procedure, you must have oil pressure to continue.
After adequate oil pressure is attained reinstall spark plugs and coil wire. You are now ready to start and break in your new engine.
Coolant Tips:
Fill the radiator with water (no antifreeze) fill very slowly and listen for trapped air escaping. Allow any trapped air to burp out before continuing. Many engines today have very specific instructions for burping air from the system.
Check your manual for filling instructions. It is best to fill without a thermostat in place and to fill from the highest point available on the engine or to vent while filling using the highest point available.
Caution: Trapped air in the engine block or heads can cause total engine failure. allow one hour for coolant and engine block to acclimate. Cold water will shrink the cylinder walls and potentially cause piston damage at start up. You can eliminate this one hour time delay by filling the radiator and engine with hot water rather than cold water. Using water at this time eliminates a big mess should any leaks occur during start-up. One loose clamp will let a hose pop off and antifreeze is a environmental hazard spill you want to avoid.
Re-check oil level.
.
Turn the heater control to full hot and leave radiator cap off until thermostat opens, then add any additional water needed and seal the system. This will help prevent an air lock in the system.
.
Immediately after starting engine , bring the RPM up to 2000 and check the oil pressure.
If you do not have oil pressure in 5 seconds shut off the engine immediately!!!!! Check the fittings, lines, gauges and electrical connections, do not proceed without oil pressure. Some engines have very specific procedures to prime the pump, make sure they are followed.
Camshaft Break-in Procedure:
If your new engine has a flat tappet camshaft it is critical that the engine start quickly and run at 1500 to 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes of operation to break in the new camshaft and get the lifters rotating properly.
It is not recommended to fire up a new engine with a flat tappet camshaft using an aftermarket fuel injection system that has not been previously tuned to this new engine. The cam can go flat while you are working on tuning your new system. A minimum of 1500 RPM is critical for the first 20 minutes.
Run engine twenty minutes at 1500-2000 RPM to break in the camshaft.
Monitor the water temperature and Oil pressure during cam break in. New engines make heat, have fans or a garden hose set up to mist the radiator if necessary while breaking the cam in to keep it cool.
Search for oil or water leaks. Listen for vacuum leaks.
Re-Tighten all clamps on rubber hoses, proper tension on clamps can be attained after engine is fully warmed and the hoses soften.
While the cam is breaking in check timing to make sure you are close, at 1500 to 2000 RPM timing should read between 12 and 20 degrees on most engines. Final timing can be done after cam break in.
Once the camshaft break in has been completed, bring speed down to approximately 600-800 RPM
AFTER CAM BREAK IN:
Check carefully for any vacuum, water or oil leaks.
.
Adjust carburetor, set floats, idle mixture and idle speed. Jetting may need to be adjusted up or down slightly due to weather, altitude, power increase, etc. Please read carburetor instructions prior to start-up.
SET TIMING, now that you have proper idle speed set initial timing to specs.
Check Total Timing: Total timing is the combined total of initial timing plus vacuum, mechanical and electrical advance in the distributor. On most engines Total timing is achieved at 3000 to 3500 RPM. Total timing varies for specific engines but proper total timing is essential for peak performance. A naturally aspirated Chev 350 with 9:1 compression might run great with 34 degree’s total timing but the same engine could melt pistons at 38 degrees.
The same engine with a supercharger, nitros or turbo charger could melt the pistons at 26 degree’s total timing but run great at 17 degrees. Before driving your vehicle with this new engine for the first time you need to make sure the total timing is properly set for your application.
Proper total timing varies for each engine manufacturer and each engine family within a manufacturer. If your total timing is not correct you will have engine failure, Head gaskets, pistons and connecting rod bearings all are subject to early failure when proper total timing is exceeded.
.
Initial Drive Test:
Run normally without holding engine at a steady speed for long periods of time. Loading the engine for short bursts will help seat the rings. Do not work the engine hard for the first 500 miles, this is not the time to test power on the steepest hill or racing it to feel the new power. Let the engine seat in properly before working it hard or revving it high.
Do not ever let the engine overheat! You should be able to keep it within 20 degrees of the thermostat temperature at all times.
.
Once you are sure you have a sealed engine with no leaks drain the water from the radiator and replace with a 50% antifreeze/water solution. Fill using the same procedure discussed above. Additives such as RedLine Water Wetter (climate permitting) can help cool your engine.
Re-torque header and intake bolts once cooled down. Even though head gaskets are a no re-torque design all head gaskets benefit from a re-torque after a hot run of the engine. In all engines there is a slight relaxing of the torque after run in. In a performance engine Re-Torque is always recommended.
RECOMMENDED GUIDELINES & MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
Water temperature should never exceed 230 degrees in a worst case scenario.
Oil Pressure Parameters - 20 PSI at hot idle minimum, 55-65 PSI maximum. Oil temperature gauges are recommended
Computer controlled engines must stay at factory recommended temperature minimum for best performance, most use a 195 degree thermostat.
Replacement spark plugs must be of the proper heat range and style.
Spark plugs that are too hot will cause engine detonation issues and loss of power.
Adjustable vacuum advance should be no more than 10 degrees total. If pinging occurs during part throttle acceleration reduce vacuum advance timing, not initial or total timing.
During initial break in, check for oil, water, fuel and vacuum leaks frequently.
OIL AND FILTER CHANGE INTERVALS:
Change break-in oil and filter after 300-500 miles. All New Engines will have metal particles suspended in the oil from the initial break in procedure. The only way to remove these is to change the break-in oil and filter. This is necessary to avoid premature wear on all new engines.
Street driven vehicles should change oil and filter every 3000 miles.
Race engines should have oil and filter changes every one to two race weekends and the filter should be cut open and inspected each time to search for early part failures.
Shift points should not exceed 500 RPM past peak horsepower RPM. Rev limiter should be set slightly above shift RPM.
Installing and Starting your new engine.
We have a common interest in the success and longevity of your new engine and would like to share these helpful hints to make your installation trouble free.
Before Start Up:
.
Replace all hoses and clamps.
.
Replace radiator with largest available or have your current radiator rodded out and inspected by a competent radiator shop. Your new engine will make much more power and HEAT than your old engine, increased power demands increased cooling.
Replace radiator cap with a new cap with proper pressure rating.
.
Replace water pump, when your old pump sits out for a week or two while you change the engine the seals dry up and fail on start up.
Replace the Fan Clutch, stay with a Thermal Fan Clutch. Non -Thermal Fan Clutches do not work and waste fuel.
Replace all belts.
Replace all fuel and vacuum lines. Remember all rubber parts fail with age. Appearance is not an issue, age of the part is.
Check or replace all motor mounts
Check all pulleys for straightness, wear and alignment.
Check all wiring for fraying and cracks.
Check all brackets for cracks.
Did you replace the vibration damper? A worn out vibration damper can break a good crankshaft due to poor balance.
Flywheels and flexplates must be checked for tooth wear and cracks. Flywheels are critical on hi-performance engines. Make sure the bolts are not too long and are torqued to proper specs using red Loctite. When using an automatic transmission, be sure you install the torque converter correctly. When installed properly you should have at least 1/2 inch between the converter and flexplate and be able to turn the torque converter freely with the transmission bolted to the engine. Slide the converter forward and bolt it to the flexplate.
Make sure that any new or used flexplates or flywheels are balanced to match your new engine. Some engines are internally balanced and others are externally balanced, get expert help if you are in doubt.
Fuel:
If the vehicle has not run in three (3) months or more the gas tank should be drained and cleaned, all gas lines should be flushed out. OLD GASOLINE turns to varnish when you attempt to run it and will gum up all your new parts.
Many Valve train failures on new engines are a direct result of old fuel. Old fuel will coat the valves, pistons and exhaust guides and ports with a shiny, stinky varnish like material that causes valves to stick, the only fix at this point is to remove and rebuild the heads off your new engine to remove this varnish and repair the damage. Many times the sticky valves hit the pistons and you will also get piston damage. We have seen this many times, it is a real problem, don’t ruin your new engine to save twenty dollars of old gasoline.
Fill carburetor with gasoline to ensure a quick start.
Fuel Injection Vehicles can be primed by turning the ignition key to the on position, hold it there for 3 seconds turn off and repeat until you have pressure in the fuel rail. Injected vehicles have a built in safety switch that shuts off the electric fuel pump 3 seconds after the key is turned to the on position, this is why you have to repeat the procedure till you have pressure.
If your previous engine failed it may have had Carburetor or Fuel Injection problems. Fueling problems either rich or lean can cause total engine failure. Make sure your system is in proper tune so you can enjoy this new engine.
Ignition System:
The ignition system must be in new or very good condition. Old plug wires tend to spark to ground or to other plug wires causing detonation, this is one cause of piston failure.
New Plugs, wires, Distributor Cap, and in older applications Points and Condenser are highly recommended.
Be careful with the routing of the plug wires, poor installation can cause misfire of plug wires.
The Distributor must be checked for proper advance curve and for wear. A worn distributor shaft can cause spark scatter and misfire problems.
Be sure to use correct distributor rotation when installing spark plug wires and setting the firing order. Many start up failures are from the simple mistake of a reversed firing order.
A flat lobe on a camshaft can be caused by excessive failed attempts to start a new engine. Remember: Flat tappet cams need to start promptly and run at 1500 to 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes of engine life to survive.
Engine Oil Coolers:
If you have an engine oil cooler on your vehicle and had a previous engine bearing or engine failure with associated debree in the in oiling system the oil cooler MUST BE REPLACED!!!!
Cleaning and flushing does not get metal out of the old cooler but actual hot engine running conditions with the associated vibration while driving does a very good job and transfers the old damaged engine debree directly to the new engine bearings.” Failure to follow this advice results in cancellation of all warranty and engine bearing failure usually occurs in the first 5,000 miles. All engine rebuilders recognize this issue and endorse this note.
.
PRE-INSTALLATION/PRE-LUBE INSTRUCTIONS:
Fill your new oil filter with oil before installing it. This will save time and effort priming the engine.
.
Fill engine with the proper amount of oil and check before and after priming to be sure it is at the full mark after the oil passages are filled. Non Detergent oils are a thing of the past and are not recommended for modern engine break in. SYNTHETIC OILS and additives are not recommended for break in! If you are running roller lifters a multi viscosity oil is necessary to lubricate the rollers. Roller lifter engines use 5-30 or 10-40 depending on your climate. ( Cold weather needs thinner oil. )
.
Dry starts are the leading cause of premature engine failure. Dry starts occur when you start your engine but the oil pump does not pump oil or the engine is started before oil is placed in the oil pan.
Dry starting an engine can cause damage in as little as 20 seconds.
Prime the engine by actually spinning the oil pump with a proper priming tool or speed handle while slowly turning the engine with a wrench at the front pulley or at the flywheel. ( You will not get pressure if the oil pump is turned in the wrong direction, the pump needs to turn the same direction as the distributor shaft rotation on distributor driven pumps. ) Continue with this procedure until oil pressure is indicated on the oil pressure gauge and oil is present at all the rocker arms. Check for oil leaks at this time!!!!!!!!
If unable to pre-oil the engine properly and mechanical experience prevents you from removing and reinstalling the distributor properly, the following procedures can be used to pre-oil the engine.
a. Remove coil wire and spark plugs, if not already removed.
b. Keeping an eye on the oil pressure gauge, crank the engine with spark plugs out and ignition disabled for 45 seconds!!
Oil pressure should climb after 10-15 seconds. If there is no oil pressure after 15 seconds stop let the starter motor cool and check the gauge, fittings, lines, etc. Repeat the above procedure, you must have oil pressure to continue.
After adequate oil pressure is attained reinstall spark plugs and coil wire. You are now ready to start and break in your new engine.
Coolant Tips:
Fill the radiator with water (no antifreeze) fill very slowly and listen for trapped air escaping. Allow any trapped air to burp out before continuing. Many engines today have very specific instructions for burping air from the system.
Check your manual for filling instructions. It is best to fill without a thermostat in place and to fill from the highest point available on the engine or to vent while filling using the highest point available.
Caution: Trapped air in the engine block or heads can cause total engine failure. allow one hour for coolant and engine block to acclimate. Cold water will shrink the cylinder walls and potentially cause piston damage at start up. You can eliminate this one hour time delay by filling the radiator and engine with hot water rather than cold water. Using water at this time eliminates a big mess should any leaks occur during start-up. One loose clamp will let a hose pop off and antifreeze is a environmental hazard spill you want to avoid.
Re-check oil level.
.
Turn the heater control to full hot and leave radiator cap off until thermostat opens, then add any additional water needed and seal the system. This will help prevent an air lock in the system.
.
Immediately after starting engine , bring the RPM up to 2000 and check the oil pressure.
If you do not have oil pressure in 5 seconds shut off the engine immediately!!!!! Check the fittings, lines, gauges and electrical connections, do not proceed without oil pressure. Some engines have very specific procedures to prime the pump, make sure they are followed.
Camshaft Break-in Procedure:
If your new engine has a flat tappet camshaft it is critical that the engine start quickly and run at 1500 to 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes of operation to break in the new camshaft and get the lifters rotating properly.
It is not recommended to fire up a new engine with a flat tappet camshaft using an aftermarket fuel injection system that has not been previously tuned to this new engine. The cam can go flat while you are working on tuning your new system. A minimum of 1500 RPM is critical for the first 20 minutes.
Run engine twenty minutes at 1500-2000 RPM to break in the camshaft.
Monitor the water temperature and Oil pressure during cam break in. New engines make heat, have fans or a garden hose set up to mist the radiator if necessary while breaking the cam in to keep it cool.
Search for oil or water leaks. Listen for vacuum leaks.
Re-Tighten all clamps on rubber hoses, proper tension on clamps can be attained after engine is fully warmed and the hoses soften.
While the cam is breaking in check timing to make sure you are close, at 1500 to 2000 RPM timing should read between 12 and 20 degrees on most engines. Final timing can be done after cam break in.
Once the camshaft break in has been completed, bring speed down to approximately 600-800 RPM
AFTER CAM BREAK IN:
Check carefully for any vacuum, water or oil leaks.
.
Adjust carburetor, set floats, idle mixture and idle speed. Jetting may need to be adjusted up or down slightly due to weather, altitude, power increase, etc. Please read carburetor instructions prior to start-up.
SET TIMING, now that you have proper idle speed set initial timing to specs.
Check Total Timing: Total timing is the combined total of initial timing plus vacuum, mechanical and electrical advance in the distributor. On most engines Total timing is achieved at 3000 to 3500 RPM. Total timing varies for specific engines but proper total timing is essential for peak performance. A naturally aspirated Chev 350 with 9:1 compression might run great with 34 degree’s total timing but the same engine could melt pistons at 38 degrees.
The same engine with a supercharger, nitros or turbo charger could melt the pistons at 26 degree’s total timing but run great at 17 degrees. Before driving your vehicle with this new engine for the first time you need to make sure the total timing is properly set for your application.
Proper total timing varies for each engine manufacturer and each engine family within a manufacturer. If your total timing is not correct you will have engine failure, Head gaskets, pistons and connecting rod bearings all are subject to early failure when proper total timing is exceeded.
.
Initial Drive Test:
Run normally without holding engine at a steady speed for long periods of time. Loading the engine for short bursts will help seat the rings. Do not work the engine hard for the first 500 miles, this is not the time to test power on the steepest hill or racing it to feel the new power. Let the engine seat in properly before working it hard or revving it high.
Do not ever let the engine overheat! You should be able to keep it within 20 degrees of the thermostat temperature at all times.
.
Once you are sure you have a sealed engine with no leaks drain the water from the radiator and replace with a 50% antifreeze/water solution. Fill using the same procedure discussed above. Additives such as RedLine Water Wetter (climate permitting) can help cool your engine.
Re-torque header and intake bolts once cooled down. Even though head gaskets are a no re-torque design all head gaskets benefit from a re-torque after a hot run of the engine. In all engines there is a slight relaxing of the torque after run in. In a performance engine Re-Torque is always recommended.
RECOMMENDED GUIDELINES & MAINTENANCE INTERVALS
Water temperature should never exceed 230 degrees in a worst case scenario.
Oil Pressure Parameters - 20 PSI at hot idle minimum, 55-65 PSI maximum. Oil temperature gauges are recommended
Computer controlled engines must stay at factory recommended temperature minimum for best performance, most use a 195 degree thermostat.
Replacement spark plugs must be of the proper heat range and style.
Spark plugs that are too hot will cause engine detonation issues and loss of power.
Adjustable vacuum advance should be no more than 10 degrees total. If pinging occurs during part throttle acceleration reduce vacuum advance timing, not initial or total timing.
During initial break in, check for oil, water, fuel and vacuum leaks frequently.
OIL AND FILTER CHANGE INTERVALS:
Change break-in oil and filter after 300-500 miles. All New Engines will have metal particles suspended in the oil from the initial break in procedure. The only way to remove these is to change the break-in oil and filter. This is necessary to avoid premature wear on all new engines.
Street driven vehicles should change oil and filter every 3000 miles.
Race engines should have oil and filter changes every one to two race weekends and the filter should be cut open and inspected each time to search for early part failures.
Shift points should not exceed 500 RPM past peak horsepower RPM. Rev limiter should be set slightly above shift RPM.
I agree, ....very little really applies to the engines in my world!! Sorry 'Tex'!