Brake rod thread size

jkcrosson

jkcrosson

Well-known member
I do not have access to any catalogs and need to know the thread size and pitch for brake rods. Thanks
 
I agree,5/16x24 is correct. Brattons catalog is my main quick reference for most threas sizes and thread count.
 
And whilst we're on brake rods... What is the point of the "lock nut" adjacent to the clevis?
It doesn't lock anything-the clevis can't possibly tighten up when fitted, it adds no strength as the stress is when not when the rod is under pressure but when it is under tension, (at which stage the nut is being pulled away from the clevis). Is it just a marker of where the clevis was wound to when first assembled in the factory?
 
The nut is used to keep the threads on the clevis from working back and forth each time the brakes are applied. Without it the treads would wear and eventually strip.
 
I don't know what you are doing but a bit of trivia to remember. The original rods were the correct size to permit threads to be cut into them. Many reproduction rods are a smaller diameter designed to allow threads to be rolled onto them.

Charlie Stephens
 
Also, without the lock nut to hold the threads tight, just the viration of the engine running and road vibration will work to wear the threads.
 
jkcrosson said:
I do not have access to any catalogs and need to know the thread size and pitch for brake rods. Thanks
Click to expand...
Yo' JK, Git catalogs frum EVERYBODY, the're FREE:D
Ol' Bill even kuts up OLD ones & tacks up exploded views & specs charts on the wall, along with MY PIC!:cool:
He tole me to tell you a SKEERY STORY: Whin he wuz checkin' Minerva's frunt brakes, with them old SHURE-STOP equalizers, sumbody DIDN'T shorten the actuating pins, by 5/16", & the clevises were ONLY screwed on by about 3 (three!!) threads:eek: & he wuz about to go on a 285 mile round trip to Hollister, Ca, (EARTHQUAKE COUNTRY:eek:)
Buster T.:eek:
 
George D said:
...The nut is used to keep the threads on the clevis from working back and forth each time the brakes are applied. Without it the treads would wear and eventually strip.
Click to expand...
Hmmm, best reason I heard. but why doesn't the clutch adjusting arm warrant a similar nut?
 
Regular tap and dies are wrong.

Ford used the higher tolerance threads on the brake rods and many other places. Go carefully.

The regular tap and dies will remove metal making them larger/ smaller so you get less thread contact area.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Regular tap and dies are wrong.

Ford used the higher tolerance threads on the brake rods and many other places. Go carefully.

The regular tap and dies will remove metal making them larger/ smaller so you get less thread contact area.
Click to expand...

This is where thread chasers come into play.
 
I've got plenty of catalogs. I just did not have access to them 40 miles away. Thanks everyone for the responses and Brent for the PM.
 
jkcrosson said:
I've got plenty of catalogs. I just did not have access to them 40 miles away. Thanks everyone for the responses and Brent for the PM.
Click to expand...

Hey Jamie,
Not mentioned regarding such rods...be careful, if making them from some hardware stock rod. Ford rods were hard as month old dog feces..FOR OBVIOUS REASONS,EH:) !!
 
I have decided to clean the threads up with a small triangle file instead of using the die. Again thanks Fordbarn for always coming through.

Jamie
 
jkeesey said:
This is where thread chasers come into play.
Click to expand...


Do not bet on it!

I tried my chasers and they were taking metal too.

Try a small cut and if you get clean fresh metal then stop.

I recommend a thread file for physical damage and a wire wheel for just plain old clean up. Inside threads that are dirty I will do by hand with a 90 degree bend pick if needed.
 
The older round dies frequently had "adjustment" to make tighter or looser threads. Hex dies are usually "set" and can't be changed.

Go big and hope for no galling?

Joe K
 
A nut with a couple of "slots" cut in the threads work as a thread chaser without removing material.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
Do not bet on it!

I tried my chasers and they were taking metal too.

Try a small cut and if you get clean fresh metal then stop.

I recommend a thread file for physical damage and a wire wheel for just plain old clean up. Inside threads that are dirty I will do by hand with a 90 degree bend pick if needed.
Click to expand...

I've got an old snap on set and have never had them actually cut the metal. Unless the threads are already completely trashed that is.
 
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