Removing broken bolts

Ronnie

Ronnie

Well-known member
Just a little follow up from a previous post about broken bolts.
This is another forum that I frequently visit as a member.
Here is the skinny for all the guy's here that attempt the broken fastener removal to no avail.

I learned this years ago and have had great success using it.This video will make believers out of the process and will give a good insight as to the steps and process involved,as well as the required process with the tig.Notice how long the heat build up and process takes..Not just a spray and pray method.Jody does his videos from a grass roots level and is a very accomplished weldor.
I hope this provides some info and insight to the process.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/broken-tap.html

Just another of my 2¢ ;)

R
 
Good video. I was never too successful at welding washers and nuts on broken head studs/bolts when using a mig and then trying to extract the broken piece. Most of the folks I talked to about this said I really need to use a tig welder to get a good enough weld to make this work.
 
Ronnie - good stuff, I am on Jody's weekly video blast. Great info on that site.
"Walk the cup"
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
Good video. I was never too successful at welding washers and nuts on broken head studs/bolts when using a mig and then trying to extract the broken piece. Most of the folks I talked to about this said I really need to use a tig welder to get a good enough weld to make this work.
Click to expand...

When i was i was in my twenties an old man around "60" LOL taught me the washer and nut trick using a stick welder and has always worked for me and now i use a mig and it works well and a lot easier to do than the stick. I have had to try twice on some but i have always been able to get them out.
 
I have removed a 5/16 rear Harley exhaust stud with stick welding. engine was close quarters in the frame.I was younger and used what I had. Now I am glad to have mig. I am sure tig is the best for some things,but a good 220 volt mig will do a lot.

John
 
Very good video now,
I'll need another tool a tig welder.
On the bolt I was working on the flex core on my mig seems It wouldn't fill in the center. Thanks for the info.
 
George/Maine said:
Very good video now,
I'll need another tool a tig welder.
On the bolt I was working on the flex core on my mig seems It wouldn't fill in the center. Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Everyone to their own opinion, but i do not like flux core wire myself for welding two pieces of metal. I have used it for hard coating. I always use gas. Argon CO/2 mix for steel.
 
Flux core has a purpose in the welding world.It is not something that was produced as a miracle wire.

R
 
Ronnie said:
Flux core has a purpose in the welding world.It is not something that was produced as a miracle wire.

R
Click to expand...


You're right, It's for sticking two parts together when you're outside in a pinch, wind is blowing the fancy gas away and time or shelter is not on your side.

Lonnie
 
A cut and paste from Miller Welds.


R


Which is better, solid wire or flux cored wire?
Neither wire is superior over the other. They simply have different properties, which work better on certain applications. As far as performance is concerned, both types of wire produce sound welds with good weld bead appearances when applied correctly and used within the proper parameter settings. Solid wire provides deep penetration in the root and usually has little spatter. Flux cored wire has a larger ball type transfer and produces low spatter levels. In addition, flux cored wire produces a rounder penetration profile with excellent sidewall fusion.
As far as user appeal, both solid wire and flux cored wire are relatively easy to use and are ideal for novice and occasional welders working in automotive, farming and home hobby applications. Operator appeal on solid wire may be better on thinner applications because there is no slag to remove; it is ready to paint; and the weld beads may be more aesthetically pleasing.
 
Did this yesterday on a Merc engine that I have. Was able to remove three of four broken head bolts. Now that I read this may give that fourth one another try.
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Use 1/16" rod and hang around a long time heat it up back off a little add the rod slowly to give it a good heat soak and you will be successful.As it is cooling down quench with a candle and don't try to remove until it is warm to the touch.Give it another go if need be. You will get it. Bin there done that.3 out 4 on the first go proves you have the talent.

R
 
Thanks, will switch out to 1/16 and turn my amps down. Not knowing what I was doing I did that with 3/32 at 150 amps.
 
Your 150 amps didn't give you much time to hang around and let the heat build up as you got to molten stage quickly and gave it the filler.This way you can just keep it close to molten and keep the heat going as long as need be without rushing,and add rod at your own pace.You will get it.Don't rush.You can stop look it over lite up again and play some more.

R
 
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