Tappet noise with new cam

gilitos

gilitos

Senior Member
I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.
 
gilitos said:
I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.
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Some info would be good:) ! Was block to cam bearing clearance 'set to specs' ? Did you use original style lifters, or new style adjustable style ? What clearance intake/exhaust ? What was Stipe recommendation for lifter clearance ? Did you install new cam spring/button ? Did you install lifter with FOOT that Stipe recommended ?
Did you go from old fiber cam gear to alum or bronze ?
 
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0.012" intake and exhaust. It's tappet noise, not gear or cam plunger. Cam bearing clearance is fine. Tappet style? Jam nut, brand new, don't know the base diameter.
 
gilitos said:
I'm running a Stipe IB330 cam with lash set to specs. It seems to be (and this is subjective) that there is a lot more noise from the tappets than I had with the stock cam. Anybody else notice this or is it just my imagination? I wonder if a different ramp makes a differnt sound, for example.
Click to expand...

What does Stripe say about the problem (I am sure you contacted him before posting)?

Charlie Stephens
 
Well no and that is of course an excellent idea. It's just that it's so easy to post on this forum then sit back and be entertained and educated by the many and varied responses!
 
gilitos said:
Well no and that is of course an excellent idea. It's just that it's so easy to post on this forum then sit back and be entertained and educated by the many and varied responses!
Click to expand...

If you are bothered by noise, just turn your hearing aids down......lol
 
Are your valve springs fatigued and is there any drag in the guides? If you did not remove the valves from the guides and the lift travel of the new cam is now greater than the old wear pattern there may be some sticking.

If so, the valves will slightly lag on the closing side of the cam and instead of following the deceleration profile they will 'clack'. If this is the case it will hammer up the new cam in short order. Model A springs are extremely weak in pressure when new and, like all springs, lose tension with age and thermal cycles.

I'd start by removing the springs, checking their pressure, and seeing if, with the springs removed, you can easily (finger pressure) run the valves up and down at least 0.350" without any stick or bind. Try rotating them, too, when checking.
 
Part of the reason why I replaced valves, guides, & springs at the same time as I put in the new Stipe 330 cam.
 
Hi G,

Maybe not the same problem as yours; however, here is just one (1) experience:

1. Installed new Stipe IB330 cam; with,
2. New timing cover camshaft plunger & new plunger spring; with,
3. New SS valves, new valve springs, & new valves guides; &,
4. After checking the former timing gear/crankshaft gear clearance which appeared to meet specs, installed same old fiber timing gear with metal center.
5. However, had installed a "new" crankshaft gear as opposed to reinstalling the old one.

A. Started engine & heard ticking.
B. Called Mr. Dan McEachern to ask about his aluminum timing gears -- he said a "slim" possibility "may" be the additional cam lift has caused the metal in the fiber gear to become loose & "maybe" making noise, or fiber gear not meshing with new crankshaft gear making noise. He knew he had also made my new crankshaft gear which would fit & mesh with his new timing gear.
C. Removed timing cover, no loose play noticed between gears.
D. Removed old fiber timing gear, no loose play "felt" between fiber/metal joint.
E. Installed new aluminum timing gear.
F. Called Mr. McEachern to report no more ticking.

Again, just one (1) experience.
 
"All Jam nut tappets I have seen are 1 inch diameter and strictly verboten with a Stipe cam."

Totally agree. You have to use the single lock lifters, they are the only ones with the wider base.
 
The "double lock" lifters will hold adjustment better.
You just have to use a cam that was designed to run on a one inch lifter.
 
Is that the best way? Seems like it would be a lot easier to do with the engine inverted in a stand. And I've never liked leaning down over the fender to adjust valves. Do you think it would save much time doing it in the car?
 
Definitely check the base diameter. Find out what size lifter base Stipe recommends. I wound up with big gouges on the cam lobes using the so-called double lock, jam nut lifter, which was .998 diameter. What size base you need depends on the cam grind. Did I say check with Stipe?
Check out Vince Falter's Ford Garage site for some information on this subject. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/valvelifterqualitycomparison.htm
It can be done with the engine in the car, but you have to remove the cam to get to the lifters. First drop the pan. Then you have to remove the valve spring retainers to take pressure off the lifters. I have used bobby pins to hold the lifters up while removing the cam. Then remove the bobby pins and the lifters will drop out the bottom. You can also insert new lifters this way from the bottom, which I suspect is going to be needed. It might be easier to remove the engine. Flip a coin.
 
Check the cam lobes carefully for any scraping or wear marks. If you used lifters with too small a diameter (which I suspect is the cause of the noise) the cam lobes strike the outside edge of the lifter base, which not only wipes off the oil, but has a very high load on a very small surface contact.

The new cam may be damaged already.
 
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