Inserts or regular babbit bearings

finding replacement inserts is a non issue anymore... there are more and more of these engines being remanufactured this way than in the past... actually i would not be surprised if inserts have exceeded babbitt... in this ever changing world you must adapt to newer technologies or be left behind.
 
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Here is a babbit question. Why do so many engines have crankshaft endplay that is way too loose? Is there an issue with the durability of the babbit thrust surfaces? The brass pieces used with the inserts look tougher, and shouldn't crack or fall off either.
 
Flathead said:
Here is a babbit question. Why do so many engines have crankshaft endplay that is way too loose? Is there an issue with the durability of the babbit thrust surfaces? The brass pieces used with the inserts look tougher, and shouldn't crack or fall off either.
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The reason many babbitt engines have a lot of end play, on new jobs, or low milage engines is " Not In Order"

1. The babbitt flanges not peened after the shaft is, and most of the time not at all.

2. What I think is the biggest one I have seen is, who ever did the babbitt job cut it to big in the first place.

3. Many were not cut at a right angle, and the high spots wear off fast and then you can be left with .040 thousandths end play.

4. Lead babbitt will wear fast, and most Model A's have been rebuilt before using it.

5. To even get close cutting thrust accurately, you have to have first tooling that will cut the thrust at a right angle, and also a very sharp cutting tool. A dull cutter will not cut with slight pressure, and then will dig in and take way more then you wanted.

6. You just don't have trouble with Babbitt if it is installed properly.
 
Have considered modern inserts, but just couldn't pull the trigger. I have several friends with such motors. They all run the Interstate like their hair is on fire. I drive my A's to escape that madness. One thing my inserted friends all seem to have in common is that every 18 months/2 years they are pulling their engine for some reason!:confused:
 
Kohnke Rebabbitting said:
The reason many babbitt engines have a lot of end play, on new jobs, or low milage engines is " Not In Order"

1. The babbitt flanges not peened after the shaft is, and most of the time not at all.

2. What I think is the biggest one I have seen is, who ever did the babbitt job cut it to big in the first place.

3. Many were not cut at a right angle, and the high spots wear off fast and then you can be left with .040 thousandths end play.

4. Lead babbitt will wear fast, and most Model A's have been rebuilt before using it.

5. To even get close cutting thrust accurately, you have to have first tooling that will cut the thrust at a right angle, and also a very sharp cutting tool. A dull cutter will not cut with slight pressure, and then will dig in and take way more then you wanted.

6. You just don't have trouble with Babbitt if it is installed properly.
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Herm

As always what you say about Babbitt makes a lot of sense. I had very good luck with it back in the 70ts. Then you could still find guys that had been doing babbitt for years. Now days most of the babbitt jobs I have seen were junk.
 
I'm a newb when it comes to babbit. I just removed my babitted engine with that same end play problem, havent taken it apart to see just how bad it is. The engine has good compression and only made the noise when decelerating . I'm wondering what would be the least costly fix for this repair if the crankshaft is not damaged. If the front and middle main babbit look good, Is it possible to get a new rear bearing to fix it.
 
Tom Bellfoy said:
I'm a newb when it comes to babbit. I just removed my babitted engine with that same end play problem, havent taken it apart to see just how bad it is. The engine has good compression and only made the noise when decelerating . I'm wondering what would be the least costly fix for this repair if the crankshaft is not damaged. If the front and middle main babbit look good, Is it possible to get a new rear bearing to fix it.
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Sounds like your center main is loose or the Babbitt is gone.
 
There is a brass replacement rear main oil slinger insert that has an added flange to replace the rear thrust surface. Snyder's has them and others may sell them as well. It is a band-aid repair but may help solve your problem if the motor is good otherwise.
 
Flathead said:
There is a brass replacement rear main oil slinger insert that has an added flange to replace the rear thrust surface. Snyder's has them and others may sell them as well. It is a band-aid repair but may help solve your problem if the motor is good otherwise.
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The rear thrust surface was pretty much gone on my engine, and I put one of these brass slinger inserts. Works like a charm, pretty much eliminated the oil discharge out of the rear main.
 
thats interesting about the replacement insert. I wont be able to check the engine for at least another few weeks in the meantime I'll keep hoping this will do the trick
thanks
tom
 
I picked at the time Inserts because i hung around Ford V8 guys [1932] .For some of the drivers they had LATE 1936 LB , blocks ,,Large crankshaft bearings and inserts[this is the first year for Ford and my 1935 Chevy has babbit only on the piston rods].Now i was told by some of them that when they run the engines and they get hot using babbit bearings that the oil pressure will drop and the babbit will start to get egg shaped. We have a 32 Cabriolet with a 4 banger [ NEVER came with one] but the guys father loved the 4 banger and took out the V8 back in the early 60's. Now the Son needs a engine job [knocks]and i am trying to tell him inserts because he is hard on the driving. tries to keep up on highway speed... kids will never learn] . And this idiot gets a solid complete 32...less the V8 engine.
 
28ACoupe said:
If inserts were so much better, all these cars would have been converted a long time ago.
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Perhaps not but if inserts are better then perhaps all new cars would be made with inserts rather than babbit-Oh thats right they are ! I've had both babbit and inserts in my cars and both have performed well with considerable mileage. I think that good babbit is as good as inserts but the issue is getting good babbit which is getting harder as the skills to pour it evaporate- Karl
 
Babbitt is forgiving and can run even with dirt imbedded. Babbitt is adjustable, not so with inserts. If the thin coating of babbitt on the inserts fail it will be metal to metal and the crankshaft will be damaged.
 
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