What Brakes?

G

gadgetgeeza

Member
I ordered my new Flathead Ted Floater kit from the States. I'm in the UK. The car just has the original tin brake drums so I planned to fit cast iron drums and the floaters at the same time. So I was surprised to see a non standard arrangement when the front hubs came off. The rears are completely standard.
What have I got? Are they any good?
There is no floater arrangement at the top adjuster - just standard. I can't fit the rest of the FHT kit as I am some of the original bits missing.
Should I just add the FHT top floater wedges? - or should I just sell the kit or buy the missing bits?
 

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What you have now is a floater at the bottom that was sold by Western Auto,Sears,and probably a dozen other outfits.They actually work well as long as the drums are not oversize and the shoes too thin.If that toggle setup gets pushed too far down due to worn parts it can't return by spring pressure.Then you're sitting there with a locked up wheel.At that point you have to poke a hole in either the drum or backing plate to pry it up again.I've seen lots of these where I am.It was a popular cheap band aid fix years ago.You will have to get rid of that to use Ted's floaters.
 
Thanks Keith.
It's all in good condition and I now have new cast iron drums.
Could it be used in conjunction with the FHT floating top wedge?
Which bits will I have to buy to use the FHT kit?
 
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I would send the FHT kit back for a refund and use the present set up. We've used the old floater setup on the coupe with cast iron drums for over 20 years with no problems.The old floatert setup is a real improvement and the lower tracks that always wear out is not used. The brakes self center. If properly installed there is a snap in tin plug on the back of the backing plate that can be removed for access to the floater, incase it ever sticks in the down position. Many times to hide their use some install a carrage bolt and nut in place of where the original wedge stud and nut was installed. When installed in this incorrect manner ,if they stick in the down position a hole will have to be drilled for access as Keith mentioned above. As long as the brakes are kept in reasonable adjustment and the lining and drums aren't worn completely out there should be no problem. I've never had a problem with mine. The old style floater setup eliminates the use of the lower wedges and tracks , requires 30% less pressure at the pedal and self centers. Specialty Ford parts in Rosemead and others still sell this simple and very effective floater setup.
 
I can't see what actuates these brakes. Does the brake pin fit into something concealed behind the orange thing?
 
Here is a top view of the old style floarers. It is necessary to shorten the front brake push rods by 5/16. The push rod rests in the dished area pictured. The setup is self energising and is very simple, it eliminates many of the parts that wear and cause problems with the original setup. As long as the service brake rods are set up with NO slack, this is a very simple and effective front brake setup.
4440954-T600450.jpg
 
In post #4 Purdy said that the tracks in the front backing plate are not needed when the old style floaters are used. Is this really so?

I am working on backing plates and was going to rivet in some new tracks and use the old style floaters.

It looks like the floaters will equalize the outward movement of the shoes and maybe act a little like energizing setup.

Am I wasting my time and money on the new tracks?
Vic
 
I have owned and worked on model a"s for longer then i can remember, and this is the first i have every seen or herd of these floaters, WOW i am surprised.
 
Vic in E-TN said:
In post #4 Purdy said that the tracks in the front backing plate are not needed when the old style floaters are used. Is this really so?

I am working on backing plates and was going to rivet in some new tracks and use the old style floaters.

It looks like the floaters will equalize the outward movement of the shoes and maybe act a little like energizing setup.

Am I wasting my time and money on the new tracks?
Vic
Click to expand...

The tracks, roller pins, brake rollers and lower wedge assembly is not used with the old style floaters. Its best not to remove the old tracks. Even though the tracks are not used, if they are removed it will cause problems not having a strong spot for the lower track revits that the lower brake springs attach to. You can look at the setup and see how it works. It is self energising and has a leverage factor that reduces by 30% the amount of pressure needed to depress the brake pedal. Its works good for me. I do grind a taper on the leading and trailinjg ends of the brake lining with any brake setup.
 
Purdy
Now I remember. It has been about 10 years since I put a set in. I am in the process of installing new tracks and will finish the job. I never riveted before.

Vic
 
jerry shook said:
I have owned and worked on model a"s for longer then i can remember, and this is the first i have every seen or herd of these floaters, WOW i am surprised.
Click to expand...

I've owned model A's for 54 years or since the spring of 1960. The first time that I saw this type floaters was in the old JC Whitney and Warshawsky catalogs. Western Auto and Sears were getting out of the model A parts sales about that time.
 
Vic in E-TN said:
Purdy
Now I remember. It has been about 10 years since I put a set in. I am in the process of installing new tracks and will finish the job. I never riveted before.

Vic
Click to expand...

Vic, riveting the track rivet is not too difficult. Usually the revit tool is included in the kit. The tool is pictured on page 9 of brattons catalog. the tube slips over the head of the rivet you back it up on a vice , heat the back of the rivet red hot and hammer it.
 
In post #6 Purdy had a picture of "Old Style" front brake floaters. I was putting my brakes together and took out my recently purchased floaters from Bratton. Basically what they sell is a 1/4 inch diameter pin that fits in a hole in the bolt that goes into the backing plate. It allows the triangular shaped track to move side to side maybe an eighth of an inch or so. Years ago I had the ones that Purdy had a picture of.

Does anyone know who sells these now?

Thanks,
Vic
 
I'm not sure where you get them from, although it might tell you elsewhere in this thread.

What is the opinion on how they would work with the FHT floater pivots? I would have thought that the improved mechanical advantage of the mod in #6 combined with the centering of the floaters would be very effective. Opinions please - or has anybody tried this?
 
Being as I have never used Teds front floaters, I don't don't know whether they will work together with the old style floaters or not but May. Ted is a very smart guy and knows about leverage and brakes. I have the floaters from Snyder that Vic mentions above on my roadster. Snyders floaters allows the lower wedge to float. This in turn makes the front brakes self energising and also works good. The old style floaters are available from Specialty Ford parts in Rosemead CA. phone 636-280-4546 Or try Sacramento Vintage Ford Parts. www.vintageford.com or phone 888-422-6437
 
i have used the toggle floaters on my pu for 10,000 miles. they squeal but they stop. however, a routine check revealed the rear linings (on front wheels) were worn about twice that of the front. anybody else have this experience?
 
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