Exhaust manifold gasket question

M

MurphyJ

Senior Member
I need to replace my exhaust manifold gasket and the question; which one is really the best as there are several types offered?
Better to purchase the full length one or buy the split ones.
Any help, wisdom or technical advise is more than welcome. I thank you!
 
i think the one piece, copper gasket will work fine.... if you take the manifold off, and mill the unit , exhaust and the intake, as one unit and check with a straight edge when being one assembly....
 
The one piece gaskets that I've seen offered by model A venders is steel clad on one side only. Its usually the medium priced gasket. I've used them and they last a while untill the steel cladding rusts out. The best gasket is the two piece copper clad 1931 style. This was the last model A revision, was wider than the 28-30 style two piece gaskets and can be replaced without removing the manifolds.
 
i always use the 2 piece copper, new concave washers, studs, and brass nuts
 

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Thanks Mitch, guess I've just been asking for the wrong ones. But the picture in post #5 above does not indicate that they can be replaced without taking the manifold off.
 
Loosen the manifold nuts (4), slide the manifolds towards you about 1/4" and drop new gaskets in place. Slick ! !
Paul in CT
 
OK, when I go to the Snyder's web page, it shows a different picture for the 1931 version, and that makes more sense than the one pictured in #5 above.
A9433C2-10514.jpg
 
I just finished installing the 31 two piece gasket ( A-9433-C2 shown in Mich /Pa post above ) that requires removing the manifolds to install . You have to be very careful when installing the drop in type . They can drop down to far and protrude into the port opening in the block therefore restricting the flow of gas and exhaust . I did as Big John suggested above . Final torque is 40 ft-lbs . I am a little hesitant to torque to 45 ft-lbs .
 
CarlG said:
Who sells this gasket?
Click to expand...

Carl, I had a time finding them. If Bratton still sells them, they've got them hidden pretty well . I found them in Snyders catalog on page A-135 center column Part number A-9433-C2 $12.50 per pair You can see the difference in the gaskets in the picture and why the last revision gasket would be the better choice. I mentioned above that the last revision gasket could be installed without removing the manifolds. For who ever this may have confused ( not you Carl ) I don't recommend installing the gasket in that manner but only mentioned so that a person couyld see the difference in the late style gasket. I have used this type gasket for many years and have NEVER had one drop down and block a port and don't believe that it has ever happened.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Carl, I had a time finding them. If Bratton still sells them, they've got them hidden pretty well . I found them in Snyders catalog on page A-135 center column Part number A-9433-C2 $12.50 per pair You can see the difference in the gaskets in the picture and why the last revision gasket would be the better choice. I mentioned above that the last revision gasket could be installed without removing the manifolds. For who ever this may have confused ( not you Carl ) I don't recommend installing the gasket in that manner but only mentioned so that a person couyld see the difference in the late style gasket. I have used this type gasket for many years and have NEVER had one drop down and block a port and don't believe that it has ever happened.
Click to expand...

Brattons Part number 13780
 
Bought the two piece copper on both side with the glands attached but the glands will not fit in the engine or the manifold. These were bought from MACS for the '28-31 engines. Any thoughts on the problem?
 
poos said:
Bought the two piece copper on both side with the glands attached but the glands will not fit in the engine or the manifold. These were bought from MACS for the '28-31 engines. Any thoughts on the problem?
Click to expand...

This maybe should have been a new thread, but the exhaust manifolds are known for sagging at the rear hole due to the weight of the muffler. I can't use the rear gland ring due to sag, but the first 3 fit the holds OK.

Hold a straight edge against the edge of your holes to check for sag. New manifolds look and fit great for about $95.
 
The A-9433-C Snyders or the 13770 Brattons two piece copper clad gaskets are said to have been used from Jan.1929 untill may 1931 . This style gaskets require removal of the manifolds to remove or replace. Removal of the manifolds is the best practice in any case but this style gasket is very narrow and the slightest bit of sag in the manifolds can cause a sealing problem if these gaskets are used. These gaskets would probably be necessary to avoid losing judging points for the jan. through may 31 cars. If points make no difference, the last revision gaskets were Fords last attempt for a better sealing gasket for the model A engines. The original model B gaskets that I've seen were similiar in design but composition style material . Model B composition style gaskets probably sealed better like the model B head gasket but was harder to remove gasket material when attempting to clean gasket surfaces.
 
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I have just done this job on my Tudor. I used the 2 piece copper edged gaskets with manifold cement, just loosened off the stud nuts , moved the manifold out a bit & slipped the new ones in. Let me say my manifold like most old ones is out slightly at the rear exhaust port & also have to carefully align at the front exhaust port. The manifold cement appears to make up for any slight misalignment ; I have had it planned a couple of times & probably not worth doing again.
Make certain the nut cupped washers are pointing outwards so the washer edge is fully contacting the manifold ; ie. not cupped inwards.
Try not to disturb the exhaust pipe/manfold exhaust join which will leak if it can.
I did not use gland rings but may try them next time...&there will be a next time.
The seal at the manifold is a real bug bear on the Model A engine, right from new. I wonder how many sealed straight off at the factory ....probably lots of oaths & curses from the Engine Assembly room.
 
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When using the glands, make sure that your engine block and manifold are set up to do so. There was a time where the block and manifold deleted the use of the glands thus no counterbored ports to put them in and I think the manifolds were machined the same as the block during this timeframe.

In other words, both the block and the manifold have to have the counterbored ports machined (counterbored) within both to work, not just one or the other.

Up to mid-January 1929 all ports were counterbored on the block; then all ports were non-counterbored on the block (no need for the glands); then in mid-March 1929, just the exhaust ports were counterbored. This would relate to the same configurition as the ports within the entire assembled manifold. See my website.


Pluck
 
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