Tube Shock Mounts

I assume body down means the smaller diameter cylinder is mounted down and the larger diameter is mounted up - better to keep water and dirt from accummulating inside the larger skirt. If you had a shock with an eye at each end you could mount it either way, right? And select a shock for say an early Falcon or Chevette for vehicle weight. Bill G

There is only one cylinder. The small diameter is the piston rod.
Most shocks are designed to be mounted ONLY one way.
Yes, selecting a shock from a vehicle near the weight of a model A will help.
The compression rebound rate may vary quite a bit due to different types of suspensions though.
 
There is only one cylinder. The small diameter is the piston rod.
Most shocks are designed to be mounted ONLY one way.
Yes, selecting a shock from a vehicle near the weight of a model A will help.
The compression rebound rate may vary quite a bit due to different types of suspensions though.

Corvairs weight the same as the Model A. Has anyone tried those shocks?
 
It's like this, In my dotage, I have lost it! My stroke in 2003 blew out some circuits in my brain and anything cyber related (Beyond the the most elementary) is too much! My wife got me a printer for Christmas and I have yet to make it work. I just don't get it as I once did! There are some pics which I will send to you if you email me at Cesspilo@yahoo.com. So you're seeing the effects of a stroke on a once "Mensa level" mind. It ain't purty! So email me and I'll send them to you.
Terry
PS the Cesspilo is from my flying days when I owned a Cessna 172.


Terry... do you happen to have a pic of your mounts and shocks.. ? thanks
 
I've never used a set of Ryan Kaye's before, but just from looking at them, the front style bracket is more prone to failure than kens set up. Those U bolts are only so strong, and wouldn't be as strong as kens set up. I'm sure that the ride quality is close to the same, it's just personal preference. I like the look of kens set up better, it looks more "factory" than those u-bolt kits. It's just whether or not you want to drill a hole in the axle. Some people worry about the axle not being strong enough after the hole is drilled, but people forget about all the "drilled" front axles that many hot Rodders use.

I disagree with the issue of strength. The brackets and u-bolts are sturdy and do not seem to be a week spot to me. I know that drilling the axle will not weaken it but I still don't want to drill the axle. So if the u-bolts fail, I would still think is better to replace the bolt than have a hole in the axle that can't be undone. The addition of the shocks themselves really throws any factory look out. It's really a matter of preference.
 
I'm restoring a big 29 AA truck, I want to put tube shocks front and back. From a previous post someone said they were using a monroe 31089, 10 3/8" X 16 1/4" with a 1 3/16 bore, they are looped on both ends, originally used for older VW's. I went to ebay and theyre only $15.00 each with free s&h. I will drill my front axle and make my own mounts. On the top I will make a bracket from 1/4' plate and use the 3 bolts that hold the fender bracket
For those of you that can spend the money, you can go on line and buy new extra long spring perches, and the bracket goes just above the nut.
carry on nick c
 
I found this picture of the rear shock on the speedster. It's a Monroe #31069. The lower bracket is attached using two of the backer plate bolts. The upper mount bolts to the top of the frame using existing holes.
 

Attachments

  • shock.jpg
    shock.jpg
    74.3 KB · Views: 65
Back
Top