Anti-sieze on head nuts- yes or no?

6

66miles

Senior Member
I'm about to install new head gaskets and retorque the heads on an old 24-stud, using the existing head-studs. Is it a good idea to use an anti-sieze compound to aid in removal if required in the future? I'm also told that it allows the correct torque to be "applied" to the heads without over-stressing those tired old studs. The product I was going to use is Penrite copper-eze. I'd be interested to know what the prevailing thought is on this before I go ahead.
 
Thanks Brian. That's good enough for me then. I'll be doing the job in a couple days. What do you use, and have you tried this Penrite Copper-eze?
 
yes its ok, I use neverzieze by permatex ,its like putting new elastic in an old pair of panties, the old girls just love it
 
Yes, I ONLY use anti-seize on the end of the head studs that go into block and in the block hole. Just don't put so much in that a 'hydraulic' condition is created , if the hole has a bottom. If the stud hole is open to the water jacket, some permatex 2 in the hole first to hold back water/rust. Antiseize helps when it comes time to take things apart again. The stud only HOLDS the stud secure in block. Torque is only gained when stud nut clamps head to block.

I would NOT use lube of any kind on clamping/torqueing end..i.e.- head nut !
 
Last edited:
Very well put hardtimes. When I pulled the heads, some nuts came off with prob less than 40lbs (I used a torqewrench set at 60 to back em off). A couple of others made that scary CRACK sound before they moved, and I wound the wrench up to 70 to get those ones. I'd sure hate to leave half a stud in the block, or even worse, bring the stud out with nothing but a ragged hole left in the block!
 
Hardtimes. I just read your thread on the broken studs. That's scary stuff! If I knew I could get em out with no probs, I'd remove the studs and go to bolts. I'd be afraid though that instead of 38 good and 4 broken, I'd end up with 38 broken and 10 good. (I've got 48 of the things to get out). I just dont like those kind of odds! Good for you getting your job sorted just the same.
 
Like you say ,if the studs are OK might pay to stick with them.You can get more even torque by running a 7/16 UNF die nut over the top threads to remove burrs etc.and buy a new set of nuts and washers. Available and cheap from any good NZ fastener retailer.Cheers, Geoff.
 
Real good advice geoff. Way I see it, tryin to get something out of a hole it's lived in for more than 60 years, is too much like asking for trouble. Someone said once, "If it aint broke then stop fixin it".
 
with the risk of being called an idiot, oiled or greast bolts or nuts do not require as much torque as a dry bolt or nut, i dont know how to post pics on here but if some one is willing that knows how i will send them a file showing dry and oiled torque specs tbucket@outlook.com , this is where im at send me your email address and i will send it to you
 
You mean this picture? From an article that says you should never, never, never, ever, ever, ever use anti-sieze when torqueing a nut & bolt. Never, ever! It's on the internet so it must be true?

http://benmlee.com/4Runner/threads/threads.htm

Jack E/NJ
 

Attachments

  • tork.jpg
    tork.jpg
    46 KB · Views: 111
GEOFFNZ said:
Like you say ,if the studs are OK might pay to stick with them.You can get more even torque by running a 7/16 UNF die nut over the top threads to remove burrs etc.and buy a new set of nuts and washers. Available and cheap from any good NZ fastener retailer.Cheers, Geoff.
Click to expand...

I run a tap through the old nuts. Also. Not just cause I'm cheap- there are non for sale through hardware outlets I would use...

I use anti seize on the nut and where it contacts the head... And, when I retorque, I do each nut one by loosening it just a tad and then going to the torque. Tried this using a pencil to mark the position and it makes a difference, about 1/8th turn or so...

Karl
 
Anything that gets more of that torque down onto that head where it's needed while putting less stress on those tired old studs has got to be a good thing right?
 
ford3>>>lol no its from a quality bolt and nut manufactor, and its not the one in your post >>>

A slight delay but this is the chart that ford3 wanted to post.

Jack E/NJ
 

Attachments

  • bt.jpg
    bt.jpg
    126.9 KB · Views: 87
thanks jack, i can unscrew the cap off a beer bottle just fine, but posting a pic on here i may as well build a rocket ship, i might be able to do that
 
Meantime. I got thos heads down to 55lbs with a smear of copper anti-freeze on both stud AND nut. Seems like I will have to re-torque at regular intervals over the next couple hours (then days of running). Once that stuff is on there lubricating those old threads, it seems a little more torque can be applied (up to the maker's spec) in very small increments over time, as there is no longer the resistance of binding threads to overcome. As some have suggested, overtorque can STRETCH a thread (which will not happen here), as I am not exceeding the prescribed torque, but what (I reason) could happen with a stud that is binding due to corrosion, is too much TWISTING of the stud could cause it to SHEAR at the joint between stud and block. Obviously a tragedy when this happens!
 
Hi Everyone,

Well, It undoubtedly makes it easy to take apart later, but it can also change the tightening values and the grounding effects as the anti-sieze is an insulator.

Modern manufacturers sometimes caution against using it on spark plugs because it inhibits grounding. If a head gasket is an insulator (some are, yes?), then the stud to head connection is the only thing a spark plug could use to get ground, eh?

Since I was a kid in the early seventies Dad and I have been working on emptying a coke-can sized container of the silver stuff and it doesn't seem like we made any kind of a dent.

At work we have some silver and some copper stuff and the copper is what I choose when I'm there.

A very little can go a long way, especially when it goes from your finger to the nose to the shirt to the underwear...

-VT/JeffH
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top