40 FORD Cowl Lacing Screw Question

19Fordy

19Fordy

Well-known member
Just found a little bag of the 11 screws and pieces of original cowl lacing I saved from 1988 when I restored my 40. The after market repro. screws don't look like my originals which match the original cowl lacing screw "footprint" exactly. Some repro. folks sell slotted countersunk screws and some sell slotted stainless pan head stainless. Did Ford make a change in these screws in 39 or 40?
In the photo you can see the definite difference in my black originals and the after market. What's correct? All are 3/8 in. long.
anovn9.jpg
 
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My '39 pickup had the black panhead screws as did both of my Lincolns. I don't think the cowl lace providers care much for details.
 
I can't imagine why you ask the question. Clearly the originals are unique and superior for the purpose. The originals would be expensive to make, with the straight sides and tapered shank.
 
As has been stated previously, the correct screws are the ones in the right of your photo. Originally they were S2, (raven black) finish.
That shoulder serves the exact purpose RPM pointed out. Also, the shoulder "bottoms" against the cowl so the screws do not go in too far and bind the rubber.
 
Russ/40 said:
I can't imagine why you ask the question. Clearly the originals are unique and superior for the purpose. The originals would be expensive to make, with the straight sides and tapered shank.
Click to expand...

Russ, I asked the question because I wondered if there were various types of screws produced in 1940 - just like there were two different OEM styles of 40 Deluxe louvered grille panels and ash trays made for 1940 Fords.
 
Can someone tell me the correct length of the 1940 cowl lacing or where it is supposed to terminate on the side of the cowl? I have two sets of repro cowl lacing and they both came with the flathead countersunk screws. Since they are not the correct duplicate of original anyway would it work to use weatherstrip cement to glue the lacing to the cowl? Seems to me it would be easier, but I don't know if it would hold up to the heat and vibration. Thanks.
 
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