new kid, first purchase T

I agree, Tom. We need more young folks who can see the potential in these old parts. You will get lots of advise here. Mine is If you don't build it the way you like, you are doing it the wrong way. Have fun with it and you may be doing it for 50 years like I have.
Good luck Charlie.
 
15max said:
I agree, Tom. We need more young folks who can see the potential in these old parts. You will get lots of advise here. Mine is If you don't build it the way you like, you are doing it the wrong way. Have fun with it and you may be doing it for 50 years like I have.
Good luck Charlie.
Click to expand...

That's going to be my new signature if it's okay with you, max. I'm the only kid in my whole school who gives a crap about old cars, an example is the one kid who swears the general Lee charger in the original dukes of hazard, runs a 454 Chevrolet. And he gets really mad if you tell him otherwise.

But, since it's the weekend, I'm planning on doing some simple, easy to do frame lowering mods. I found them on the HAMB, I believe that Mr.modelT used them on his "gowjob" 26 T roadster. He drew up these plans, and I'm going to follow them.


Seems simple enough, although the front spring perch somewhat confuses me. Can anyone decipher it and explain it any better? The rear lowering technique seems simple as breaking down the axle and switching the housings around. I'll do the front flip first, and I'll try to do the rear mod in the heated shop at school. Speaking of school, today in my shop hour I got my mustang steering box opened up and I've begun some creative staring at how I'm going to De-seize the, and please forgive my ignorance here, the roughly butter stick sized slider thing that goes on the spiraled section of the input shaft. I think if I wrap the slider piece in rags, clamp it in the vise and put a crescent wrench across the little tabs on the funky vibration dampened kind of thing that fits onto the splines of the input, and just soak it in kroil and wrench on it. Would that work okay? Or is it to cobbed to work safely? The gears and bearings look okay inside the box too, I think I remember someone saying the mustang box wouldn't work for the T? Why exactly?

Ccd
 
charliechaindrive said:
I think I remember someone saying the mustang box wouldn't work for the T? Why exactly?

Ccd
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MrModelTs rear suspension worked ok, i think he added a longer threaded rod in that spring link so it had another tube (like the spring perches) mounted on the radius rod in his final version, if you want to get fancy, but that one you showed will work, and worked for 10 years with no trouble.

i am not that familiar with the mustang steering box so i could be wrong but, while i can figure you can mount it to work, it might need a solid column to the steering wheel rather than one with uni' joints & either the pitman arm or the drag link would have to be hand made. If you have the skills, go for it!
339373.jpg

This should be a picture of a mustang 'box fitted but it might not be as easy as it looks.
Good luck.
 
I'm going to get my hands on a new pitman arm, and I understand nothing is ever as easy as it seems. I found a spare steering column out of our 37 ford truck that I can use, so I might be able to use that. The vanadium steel of the frame is notoriously hard to drill, so would u-bolting the box as much as possible be okay, with a at least the 3 mount holes drilled through the frame rail and bolted? Also, I found a few things today. One is what I believe to be a juice brake front axle, it is either ford, or Essex. unfortunately has become a trailer axle (but I can always desperate it from the axle) and the other is some kind of gearbox.





Here's the gearbox

Gearboxes aren't really my forté, so if I get the numbers and such OFF the tag on the housing, can someone tell me what speeds this has? Or how to check if it's okay to work, without splitting the case. Cause if it's good, I have a big snowmobile two stroke I could set up with it.

Ccd
 
charliechaindrive said:
I found a spare steering column out of our 37 ford truck that I can use, so I might be able to use that. The vanadium steel of the frame is notoriously hard to drill, so would u-bolting the box as much as possible be okay, with a at least the 3 mount holes drilled through the frame rail and bolted?
Click to expand...

While i cannot help with the gear box (looks like a 4WD unit?) i have drilled holes in my frame for moving the battery box, drilled easily with a sharp drill bit, you should be fine. Have seen a 37 ford steering box used too (or so i was told) looks like they removed the outer tube?.
339173.jpg


Oh and the trailer axle you showed looks kind of like a model A one from what i can see.
 
Oh gees, I just used a cutting torch on my river bed frame what looked like your frame this past summer. That's how I felt about that project. :o
 
I am jalso ust about to start my first 27 T project. I have never had a T and I probably could not even drive the thing at this poiint. Hopefully I will get a lot of guidance from ths site. Good Luck on your project. Tom
 
toms32 said:
I am jalso ust about to start my first 27 T project. I have never had a T and I probably could not even drive the thing at this poiint. Hopefully I will get a lot of guidance from ths site. Good Luck on your project. Tom
Click to expand...

Hey Tom! Congrats on your 27, I wish I had a body shell for mine. Good news! My dad told me we have a bunch of ancient model A or T parts out in the old grainery, only problem is that the building is mostly collapsed. I'll go out and take a cautioned look at the contents here soon, my dad said there was "some sort of enclosed drive shaft" sitting just inside the door. Let's hope it'll be for a T.

Ccd
 
Charlie,

MrmodelT (Clayton) and I have built our two cars on a very limited budget with leftover parts. Clayton's roadster started out as a parts car we had inthe back corner of our shop my car "the Becker Special" started as a spare frame and firewal and we built a plywood body and fiber glass fenders for it .

Here is links to our build threads on the HAMB forum:

Clayton's build of Joesephine his 1926 T roadster check out the later postsas we comletly rebuilt the car to correct suspension and drivetrain problems that plagued his car on the intial build ( by the way drove his roadster from Portland Oregon to Wendover Utah for Bonneville Speed Week round trip 1732 miles under it own power)....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308741&highlight=mrmodelt

Here is the link to our car The Becker Special. Read the background story for the special, shewas intended to be my dads car but he never saw it done... We built her a real tight budget with spare parts and lots of ingenuity. Tried drive it with Clayton to Speed Week but broke crankshaft. Now we just finished a year long rebuild of her and had the first drive in it this last weekend.....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=486634&highlight=mrmodelt

Get Murray Fahnstock's book Model T's in Speed and Sport that will get you started and check out some of the other Gow Jobs build threads on the HAMB as there is quite bit old tech stuff being unearthed by the traditional hot rod movement. Also check out the Northwest Vintage Speedster boys as they are keeping speedsters in the limelight....

NWVS.org

Here is a T coupe build that Clayton and I have been watching. They were inspired by our cars and took cues from them built there Gow Job. Looking forward to seeing it finished....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568928&highlight=xrw+urabus

Hope this helps a little.

Chris
 
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Charlie, that "gearbox" you posted a picture of looks like a New Process 203 full-time four wheel drive transfer case from about '73 through '79 full size pickups. It's a two speed unit; direct drive high range and about a 1.98 to 1 low range. The aluminum rear housing contains a differential that connects the front and rear driveshafts (picture the driveshafts as being the left and right axles in a rear end and the input shaft as being the same as the rear end pinion gear and you have an idea how it works). It prevented the 'crowhopping' present in a normal transfer case when turning on a hard surface. Interestingly, with this transfer case, you could jack up wheel and the truck would not move, just spin that one wheel.
 
powerwagonmaniac1 said:
Charlie,

MrmodelT (Clayton) and I have built our two cars on a very limited budget with leftover parts. Clayton's roadster started out as a parts car we had inthe back corner of our shop my car "the Becker Special" started as a spare frame and firewal and we built a plywood body and fiber glass fenders for it .

Here is links to our build threads on the HAMB forum:

Clayton's build of Joesephine his 1926 T roadster check out the later postsas we comletly rebuilt the car to correct suspension and drivetrain problems that plagued his car on the intial build ( by the way drove his roadster from Portland Oregon to Wendover Utah for Bonneville Speed Week round trip 1732 miles under it own power)....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308741&highlight=mrmodelt

Here is the link to our car The Becker Special. Read the background story for the special, shewas intended to be my dads car but he never saw it done... We built her a real tight budget with spare parts and lots of ingenuity. Tried drive it with Clayton to Speed Week but broke crankshaft. Now we just finished a year long rebuild of her and had the first drive in it this last weekend.....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=486634&highlight=mrmodelt

Get Murray Fahnstock's book Model T's in Speed and Sport that will get you started and check out some of the other Gow Jobs build threads on the HAMB as there is quite bit old tech stuff being unearthed by the traditional hot rod movement. Also check out the Northwest Vintage Speedster boys as they are keeping speedsters in the limelight....

NWVS.org

Here is a T coupe build that Clayton and I have been watching. They were inspired by our cars and took cues from them built there Gow Job. Looking forward to seeing it finished....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=568928&highlight=xrw+urabus

Hope this helps a little.

Chris
Click to expand...

hey thanks chris! I'll check out those links in a few minuets.
 
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